brenin

Hi All, my 08 REV3 250 doesnt have a kill switch. It was like that when I bought it. As I have got more ambitious, I have occassionally become separated from the bike. As such I would like to now fit a kill switch. Can anyone please help me with how to wire it in? I have had a quick look and cant really see where one has been removed from the loom, so I need a gentle 'walk and talk' through where i should be wiring it in, and where to accomplish it. My friends have recomended the magnetic type with a lanyard. Any pros and cons with that set-up? Many thanks Ian North Wales

Hi, my Gas Gas 125 had the same problem. The internal diameter is 12mm, and on every other bar i can find (ie my Beta 250) it is 14mm, so things like S3 bar ends wont fit....i like the drilling idea, and will do that! Ian

The only thing that seems to differ is the use of Platinum. As its a rather expensive element, im assuming there isnt much there. Will this just affect plug life, or its resistance to oiling/fouling? Will a new not Platinum plug perform better than a older platinum? Or should i keep them for emergencies? thanks Ian

Hmm, the GG bars are 12mm I/D and im struggling to find something to fit. Most fitments seem to be for 14-17mm I/D. I didnt really want to change the bars, so I may have to investigate the sealed end throttle tube does anyone know where I may get 12mm I/D bar ends? thanks Ian

Dear All, in my enthusiasm for sprucing my bikes, I decided to buy a new plug! Both my REV3 250 and GG 125 have a PR5ES plug. As i am getting myopic in my old age, I have ordered and recieved BR5ES plugs... Does anyone know the difference? Im fairly sure the '5' means its the same heat grade, but other than that im lost. thanks Ian

Thanks guys, im going to order and fit some bar ends! cheers Ian

ah, i do have a flywheel weight! maybe i should have mentioned that......

I didnt have a look at his final drive ratio, so I cant really comment. Im guessing that could make a significant difference too.

Hi All, im a trials novice, with a '08 Beta 250 REV3. It runs and rides very well and I was happily aquainting myself with falling off :-) My friend let me ride his Montesa 4RT with a re-map and programable throttle body. I thought the bike both heavy and loud in comparison to my lithe 2T, but i was stunned at how much torque it produced. In 2nd gear, a twist of the throttle hoists the front wheel effortlessly, despite how heavy it felt. I didnt slip the clutch, or transfer my weight any more than on my Beta, but i was overwhelmed with how animated the front wheel was. Is this normal for a comparison, or does it somehow mean that my 250 is a duffer thats low on power or torque? Im used to both 2T and 4T racing motorcycles, but i was very surprised by the difference. I do have a weakness for HRC machinery, so is it just the difference with FI and 4T? Any thoughts would be gratefully recieved. thanks Ian

A recent fall to the right down a grassy bank caused the outer cable on my throttle to get pulled out of the rubber sealing boot on the Domino throttle assembly. When i restarted the bike it revved like mad, and only my memory of putting hand over the exhaust saved it. I then checked the bike and restarted her without noticing the dispaced cable outer......and the same thing happened. It was only after a more thorough investigation i found the problem.... regards Ian

Hi All, Id like to start with a big thank you to everyone who helped me with my fan not working issue, it was the switch in the radiator :-) My 05 GG 125 TXT PRO is ridden by my teenage daughter. At the moment, she is becoming more ambitious and taking the odd fall. If she falls to the right, onto softish ground, the grey Renthal grip which is on a Domino throttle assembly get pushed up the handlebars from its normal position. This then has the effect of pushing the end of the grip into intimate contact with the end of the handlebar. So the throttle effectively loses it ability to spring closed with the friction between the inside end of the bar grip and the bar end. If im some distance away from such a fall, she will start the bike and end up with a run away throttle as it has to be physically closed. I have been able to pull the throttle assembly back down the bars, to resolve it when we are out riding. However on a road bike this wouldnt happen. The bar end weight stops the grip from being closed at the end, and the grip solely covers the throttle tube. Also my enduro bike used 'barkbusters' which protected the levers, and by being mounted in the bar end neccessitated a grip with an open end. Is my bike set up wrong? What can I do/what do you do to avoid such an occurence? My Beta 250 is the same, but im less daring than my daughter so i seldom fall off. Any advice would be appreciated regards Ian

Hi Guys, first off I'd like to thank everyone who has helped me with this problem, its now sorted :-) It had been cold, but i had also had overheating symptoms, with coolant blowing from the overflow on the pressure cap. It turned out it was the temp sender in the radiator. A new one and new circlip cost £40 posted and once swapped, the fan kicked in when the top of the radiator reached 60 celcius, so all is good. I did notice the radiator was marked KTM when i removed it, not sure if that means cheaper parts if i need them? I didnt try KTM for temp switch as if it was for a different spec motor then it may have different operating requirements.... many thanks Ian

Hi Guys, ok applying 12v to the fan in isolation causes it to run well. I have cleaned all the connections and earths that seem to be involved. The temp sender from radiator was showing infinite resistance with my ohm meter when the bike was cold. I have then run the bike and short circuited the connector that would go to the fan on the frame rail, thereby creating an earth. The fan ran. Does this mean that its purely a failed temp switch in the rad? I havent removed it, but it seems to be inset with a circlip holding it. Im assuming its fairly easy to change? thanks Ian

Hi Guys, wow thats great thank you very much! I will get onto that in the morning ;-) many thanks Ian

Hi All, the fan on my daughters 125 isnt coming on. We have only ridden the bike on about 4 occassions, and it has been v cold here in North Wales, but im sure there is something wrong. The fan can be spun readily by hand, so isnt seized. It doesnt feel tight or obstructed. There is coolant in the radiator, so the temp sensor must be seeing 'hot' coolant. Im looking for advice as to what order to check things. Is there a known problem with the fan? I was thinking of applying 12v dc to the fan to see if it spins. I guess the next step will be to find the temp sensor and check it hasnt failed 'open'. Im guessing a little bit of riding to get it hot will suffice, and then check its resistance? After that, im guessing, except maybe see that there is power to the fan when the temp sensor sees 'hot' coolant? Does anyone have any advice or experience with this? thanks Ian