Just curious, who/what are "REVERSE" shown on the side of this years Raga's? I assume its one of his sponsors, but I've googled it, and can't figure out who they are, or what they sell.
Gear selector mechanism can be looked at by removing the clutch cover and removed without having to remove the clutch. Only 3 screws hold it in place. Check that the spring is fitted correctly or not broken. It'll be obvious when you check it. Lever position is up to you but angled up is better to help avoid it catching. Vertical would be a bit extreme for me...
Best drain off old oil and start with new. Clutch 300cc of ATF (ok as plates are all steel) Gearbox takes 600cc and normal Silkolene light gear oil will be fine, or other equivalent.
The engine will be pretty much the same as your old Alpina and if the Alpina was an early one, they are pretty much the same bike, different gearing, big tank and seat.
clutch ATF oil should be 250cc not 300 , Gear box oil should be 500cc.
Only the 1st 325 (92 moodel) and 2nd 325 (125 model) had AMAL mk1 carbs , after that all 325's were fitted with Bing as std
You do need to set the timing correctly , ALL sherpas had different timing to one another , no manual will tell you the correct
timing other than the original 91/92 owners manual , or email bultaco uk.
Hi, After abit of a look on the net for a new disc rotor for the front I have found the VEP wavey disc rotor, has anybody had any experience with these rotors? At
I have recently replaced the crank seals and also the large O ring on the disk valve cover but engine oil still seems to be getting through into the cylinder. Bike smokes a fair bit as a result. Does anybody have any ideas of what else I can do to stop the engine oil getting through?
I would be 100% sure that the gearbox oil is passing between the centre crankcases
as it is only sealed by sealant as thhese engines aren't fitted with a centre gasket.
If you split the engine to fix it make sure you use a good quality case sealant
Was getting my stuff together this morning to go off for a ride and noticed that the bike was a bit wet. Having started the bike, there was definitely a flow of water coming from the cooling system. It appeared to be coming from rad, but I couldn't really see whether it was actually the rad or one of the connecting hoses.
The bike has overheatted (blown out steam) twice fairly recently. In both cases I killed it straight away and let it cool down, checked / added coolant as required and it was ok again. I'm guessing if there is a leka in the system it makes sense for it to boil over?
So, can I repair the rad (with rad weld or something similar) or am I looking at replacement partS?
Anyone with any knowledge can no dount shed some light on it for me
just drove 450 mile round trip to pick up my bultaco sherpa i bought from the bay not sure what year it is starts with JB 199 also need a carb and exhaust had a look on the bay nothing about any body know where to get second parts from
No translation issues with numbers: Manual says .9% or 110:1. Also factory has told me you can run down to .7% or 140:1. If i knew i was running long roads / trails I wouldn't run 140:1 either. Point being .9% is as high a mixture as you go on the efi Ossa.
What Size Wheel Bearings In A 247 Montesa?
in Montesa
Posted
inmotiontrials.com have them in stock 01784 440033