I am in need of some help, before i burn the **#@! bike, I have a real ugly 197 Villiers "7E" maybe in a BSA d3 frame, just bought it and want to get it running. I have spark at the plug.. the plug seems to be getting wet from fuel but not drowning... but no real fire only coughs and the odd hiss out carb. Also it has a dellorto ub20s carby.
Anybody that wants to throw there hat in the ring is welcome and no idea would be consider silly.. Bike is in Australia and is my pre 65 project if it lives that long.
will be waiting "sleeping" at my keyboard till I get some ideas.. Timing setup? points? I dont know.
Thanks guys
Chris
I always learned you only need 3 things to make an engine (in reasonable mech cond) run, and those things need to happen at the right moment (timing).
So assuming you have compression, a spark & fuel getting in there. then I'd look at timing first. check that the points break (use a fancy powered screw driver or a cig paper for this one)
just before TDC (use a small probe in plug hole to determine this). Your not after any great accuracy here, the actual timing marks are better, your looking to see that you didn't put something back 90 or 180 deg out.
OTOH lots of fuel (assuming your using fresh stuff - tank & float bowl drained drained to remove water etc etc) in there might be a prob. ie to much fuel is killing the spark.
So on a new(ish) plug that is dry & sparks blue (not white) out of the bike, does just kicking over 1/2 doz times without throttle cause plug to be really wet?
yep -> chk float level, prob to high or needle/seat not shutting off -> remove float bowl & test if float shuts fuel off manually.
Might also see if you can fill the float bowl, then turn of the fuel tap. A bowl full should be enough to get it to fire & run a short period & of course it won't flood if fuel is off.
Ignition, ummm the condensers don't last forever & can cause spark to fail to spark, even though the spark is OK at plug when testing. They are cheap, try a new one.
No idea if any of above helps, but I've been where your at, & know one stupid oversight is a P.I.T.A. & seems so silly when you realise.
Joking aside gents, if you have a close look and do your figures, you can buy this "blinged" up baby for a tad under 4K, ok you will have shipping cost etc but when you consider it has the HRC 260 kit and all the other little trick bits like the plastics etc, it could work out quite well and have something completly different to whats doing the rounds just now!
Yes but I thought the RTL wasn't allowed to leave Japan, something to do with montesa distrubution rights or something.
Just in case, I'll ask the Q. Anyone have a (reliable , trustworthy, upstanding citizen) contact in Japan that would purchase & ship RTL's to an OS location?
Ok If your interested Babelfish gives this translation, which will test your interpreting skills :-) Interesting if these make it to the 4RT
NEW260cc engine loading 260 cc being set up finally, it sells! !
Ideal shape actualization of competition machine!
You adopt also the NEW clutch master cylinder new model lever! ! It becomes the touch whose also touch is light lighter operation becomes possible.
Furthermore efficiency the crankcase whose it is new to raise the NEW crankcase 260cc engine,!
Furthermore it contributes to holding down the engine brake!
It is easy to handle, to the engine which is easy to ride! !
While leaving the torque impression of 08 exclusive uses NEW ECU 260cc, introducing the mapping which smooth takeoff actualizes!
08RTL260F private up-to-date setting is written! !
Being simple it was designed to the NEW design white front and back fender with NEW トリコロール original design! !
Also decare becomes as one unit and has become the design which protects the whole fender.
Introducing the NEW black foil color alumite foil! !
Until now when is, the disassembly installation and very much... from first the styling グーン tightens with the black foil.
The NEW front rear - in the movement where the suspension front and back suspension is light it can handle lightly with the modification hopping and the like.
Also grip stabilizing well feature.
From the NEW clutch R brake hose mesh hose it is modified to the hard pressure-resistant hose.
From the touch direct impression of having reliability actualizes.
KING of connected monkey steering wheel handle! !
The connected monkey is equipped standard.
The double map ECU double map & setting TOOL correspondence became standard equipment.
ダブルマップスィッチ you bought with standard equipment and the necessity to add was gone! !
In addition the dry mode of up-to-date ECU (you can realize the difference which is usually) with wet mode clear.
With wet mode it has become the small exhaust quantitative map which is easy to ride also the beginner in.
If it goes extremely, motorcycle of 260cc and 1 motorcycle about of 200cc being two parts to do, the ♪ which it does
My rear brake seems to be seeping from between the 'banjo' that attaches to the hose and caliper and the hose itself. I tried to remove the banjo from the hose to trim the hose back and re-fit, but can't get it off at all. Any ideas how to do this??
If this is not possible, or will screw up a compression washer or similar, is it possible to buy the whole rear hose/ fitting assemble? Any idea on price/
many thanks for your help
Mil
You could get a new one (quick & easy but costs more) or just remove old one & take it to your local hose place (hydraulic hoses etc - truck or tractor shop etc) & they will make one up for you and much less but a bit of a hassle. oh & Make sure you get new copper washers
Is there any one that can help I have got an 05 4rt that destroys spark plugs in two hours riding and starts miss firing back firing you name it its doing it the plug is black in soot .Each time I put a new plug in it lasts for two hours agian. I put a new coil and lead and cap but still the same problem.
How long are you warming it up for? Suggest at least couple of mins of idle, I also have tacho/hr meter so I know when it's up to 1800 rpm ie warm
but easy way is to wait until radiator fan kicks in, then you know it is warmed up. It takes me at least that long to put boots etc on anyhow.
When starting and during warm up DO NOT touch the throttle. ie the old 2st blip the throttle during warmup is a NO NO, it will just foul the plug with black soot.
Oh and run the 5 not the 6 plug if your in cold climate.
1/2 length plug avoid having thread near the chamber & hence help avoid detonation.
In addition, any thread near the chamber can gather carbon, which means when you remove plug posibility exists to stuff (tech word there) the threads in the head.
Many NGK plug tables are avail on net, and from that you can decode the correct definition for an iridium plug - which looks like you have correct, but best I know it's not actually available (yet?).
>..the BR5ES - that's a slightly hotter plug isn't it?
Yep only one that worked for me, but if have a 6 then that would be OK.
Either a 5 ot 6 won't cause what your seeing.
> Over oiled the filter?....interesting.....I do put a bit of oil on and squeeze it in a little.....not too much mind.....
As I sugested, take it out for 10 mins & run the bike with a new (5 or 6) plug, then check the colour.
This test will give others a better idea of "next step" in testing.
What size plug gap do you run with?.....0.7?
> fine tuning, unimportant at this point. But per the manual.
>Scratching my head a lot at the moment.....definitely seems to be a low rpm thing....
Try the filter idea, if no good take the the float bowl cover off, turn on your fuel tap, & check that the float does stop the flow when you lift it *lightly*
As the mxiture/jetting is how it's supposed to be, and we can't find an air flow blockage...we're starting to consider a spark issue....weak ignition...
Difficulty is knowing whether to start at the coil, stator or CDI.....and how to test each!!
Since it does run for a while, I'd suggest it's not a major electrical prob.
Try a *new* BPR5ES and take out the airfilter. Run for 5-10 mins & then stop & pull your plug. Still black & sooty? Could it be you have over oiled the filter?
Since you have had the floatbowl off to check the jets right? 2nd possible I can think of is the pin for the float is not in correctly & is holding the float down, meaning nothing is stopping the fuel flow. If you run the motor @ high revs rather than idling is the plug better?
On same lines it could be the needle & seat is not shutting of, if this is the case new one might be best bet.
The bolts are 32 and 55 mm long (just measured the original ones) and yes it is M8 x 1.25.
I have made a groove in the head with an hacksaw so that I could loosen the bolt with a large screw driver. Don't use a hammer because the lug on the frontleg could break !!
Many thanks to all. Finally got them undone. & 55 & 32 x M8 x 1.25 is what I have also.
Off to find something that size not made of cheese :-)
Before I get the drill out to remove them I'd like to get some replacements in hand
So can anyone tell me the diameter, length & threadpitch of the Front caliper bolts on an 06 4RT
And what material should I get the new bolts in? I know titanium is good, but would something else suffice?
And as a hint, if I drill the head off will I get the shaft of the bolts out with some vice grips, or am I going to need some heat for the lock tight, or am I going to have to also drill & retap the holes?
So if you have managed to get yours replaced, can you describe the degree of difficulty.
I thought they weren't quite as good as a Michelin but they're not that bad are they ? Team Beta UK seem to manage ok as does Team Scorpa
If you plan to take a "team" next time you go riding, go for the Dunlop, but in my recent experience getting a Dunlop off & back on, I'd suggest a Michelin, which I changed at the same time & was a piece of cake. And those experiencew were in my workshop! Dunlop was a right PITA, soap or no soap!
I have new rear plastic for my 03 315 but I want to "fix up" the old one a bit to use for practice. I could prob make it look OK using silver or black , but wondered if anyone knows a close match to the red. eg FORD XYZ red which I can buy at an Autoparts store in a spray can.
Ecu Settings For 2007 4rt
in Montesa
Posted
The 2006 repsol had a programmable ecu. This was not std on the 2007 repsol. (we have one of each).
So if your 2007 has a programable ecu it was an add-on. so I would guess they loaded a 'hot' map.
no big deal writing /loading your own maps &/or loading a more standard one from the cd.
Our std 2007 can't be programmed and it is fairly quick to respond (depends what you want).
Maybe they have fitted a fast action throttle on the bike ?