cadman

The 2006 repsol had a programmable ecu. This was not std on the 2007 repsol. (we have one of each). So if your 2007 has a programable ecu it was an add-on. so I would guess they loaded a 'hot' map. no big deal writing /loading your own maps &/or loading a more standard one from the cd. Our std 2007 can't be programmed and it is fairly quick to respond (depends what you want). Maybe they have fitted a fast action throttle on the bike ?

Just looked in my manual & it lists the part as 90201-NN3-000 Nut, 18mm so I'd suspect a 27mm spanner would be a bit loose :-) However I havn't taken my clutch basket off so I can't say for sure what it is. have you checked your manual, I have an 05 & 06 and they say the same. I suspect your 27mm socket might be a bit stretched? or maybe low cost brand? I recently bought some new sockets that work onthe face of the hex, work great!. Good luck.

Have a look see at your manual. In the Specs you will find what Montesa think is the best initial settings. If your "average" & ride average in average sections then your prob done, if not at least factory settings will make a good starting point. HTH

Electric Start=> that would mean a battery, which is the easier / less technical way to run FI system compared to Honda/Montesa method. Question is will Yamaha figure out how to get rid of the battery, or maybe just drop the electric leg & use a small battery for FI

Yep, not sure what the black finish is, paint or anodising, but can't help thinking any small scratch will show up more than just plain ali. Might have to give up riding near rocks or something. :-)

I always learned you only need 3 things to make an engine (in reasonable mech cond) run, and those things need to happen at the right moment (timing). So assuming you have compression, a spark & fuel getting in there. then I'd look at timing first. check that the points break (use a fancy powered screw driver or a cig paper for this one) just before TDC (use a small probe in plug hole to determine this). Your not after any great accuracy here, the actual timing marks are better, your looking to see that you didn't put something back 90 or 180 deg out. OTOH lots of fuel (assuming your using fresh stuff - tank & float bowl drained drained to remove water etc etc) in there might be a prob. ie to much fuel is killing the spark. So on a new(ish) plug that is dry & sparks blue (not white) out of the bike, does just kicking over 1/2 doz times without throttle cause plug to be really wet? yep -> chk float level, prob to high or needle/seat not shutting off -> remove float bowl & test if float shuts fuel off manually. Might also see if you can fill the float bowl, then turn of the fuel tap. A bowl full should be enough to get it to fire & run a short period & of course it won't flood if fuel is off. Ignition, ummm the condensers don't last forever & can cause spark to fail to spark, even though the spark is OK at plug when testing. They are cheap, try a new one. No idea if any of above helps, but I've been where your at, & know one stupid oversight is a P.I.T.A. & seems so silly when you realise. HTH some $0.02.

Yes but I thought the RTL wasn't allowed to leave Japan, something to do with montesa distrubution rights or something. Just in case, I'll ask the Q. Anyone have a (reliable , trustworthy, upstanding citizen) contact in Japan that would purchase & ship RTL's to an OS location?

Ok If your interested Babelfish gives this translation, which will test your interpreting skills :-) Interesting if these make it to the 4RT NEW260cc engine loading 260 cc being set up finally, it sells! ! Ideal shape actualization of competition machine! You adopt also the NEW clutch master cylinder new model lever! ! It becomes the touch whose also touch is light lighter operation becomes possible. Furthermore efficiency the crankcase whose it is new to raise the NEW crankcase 260cc engine,! Furthermore it contributes to holding down the engine brake! It is easy to handle, to the engine which is easy to ride! ! While leaving the torque impression of 08 exclusive uses NEW ECU 260cc, introducing the mapping which smooth takeoff actualizes! 08RTL260F private up-to-date setting is written! ! Being simple it was designed to the NEW design white front and back fender with NEW トリコロール original design! ! Also decare becomes as one unit and has become the design which protects the whole fender. Introducing the NEW black foil color alumite foil! ! Until now when is, the disassembly installation and very much... from first the styling グーン tightens with the black foil. The NEW front rear - in the movement where the suspension front and back suspension is light it can handle lightly with the modification hopping and the like. Also grip stabilizing well feature. From the NEW clutch R brake hose mesh hose it is modified to the hard pressure-resistant hose. From the touch direct impression of having reliability actualizes. KING of connected monkey steering wheel handle! ! The connected monkey is equipped standard. The double map ECU double map & setting TOOL correspondence became standard equipment. ダブルマップスィッチ you bought with standard equipment and the necessity to add was gone! ! In addition the dry mode of up-to-date ECU (you can realize the difference which is usually) with wet mode clear. With wet mode it has become the small exhaust quantitative map which is easy to ride also the beginner in. If it goes extremely, motorcycle of 260cc and 1 motorcycle about of 200cc being two parts to do, the ♪ which it does

Anyone here read japanese? I'm interested in the changes that have been made to the RTL bike. Not sure how they will translate to the 4RT in the rest of the world, but a translation appreciated if you can. just follow link in the main pic here http://www.mitani-ms.jp/ Thanks in advance edit: see babelfish version below.

80:1 always worked for me, when using Fully SYNTHETIC oil. Your MX bike needs more oil as it spends more time at higher rpm's. Trials bikes spend a lot of time at low rpm's. However if your going to trail ride your 315 have a think about the 80:1, you might want to go back to factory recommended 1.5% which is 66:1

You could get a new one (quick & easy but costs more) or just remove old one & take it to your local hose place (hydraulic hoses etc - truck or tractor shop etc) & they will make one up for you and much less but a bit of a hassle. oh & Make sure you get new copper washers HTH

How long are you warming it up for? Suggest at least couple of mins of idle, I also have tacho/hr meter so I know when it's up to 1800 rpm ie warm but easy way is to wait until radiator fan kicks in, then you know it is warmed up. It takes me at least that long to put boots etc on anyhow. When starting and during warm up DO NOT touch the throttle. ie the old 2st blip the throttle during warmup is a NO NO, it will just foul the plug with black soot. Oh and run the 5 not the 6 plug if your in cold climate. HTH

1/2 length plug avoid having thread near the chamber & hence help avoid detonation. In addition, any thread near the chamber can gather carbon, which means when you remove plug posibility exists to stuff (tech word there) the threads in the head. Many NGK plug tables are avail on net, and from that you can decode the correct definition for an iridium plug - which looks like you have correct, but best I know it's not actually available (yet?). However having said that, http://www.outperformanceshop.com/NGK_s/1923.htm lists them?

Since it does run for a while, I'd suggest it's not a major electrical prob. Try a *new* BPR5ES and take out the airfilter. Run for 5-10 mins & then stop & pull your plug. Still black & sooty? Could it be you have over oiled the filter? Since you have had the floatbowl off to check the jets right? 2nd possible I can think of is the pin for the float is not in correctly & is holding the float down, meaning nothing is stopping the fuel flow. If you run the motor @ high revs rather than idling is the plug better? On same lines it could be the needle & seat is not shutting of, if this is the case new one might be best bet. HTH