Posts posted by lotus54
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Edited by lotus54
A note on the conversion
KTM sells a reusable sealing plug for the injection hose that goes to the upper tank.
They call it a 'washing plug'
I'll try to post the part number.
Definitely need that.
So,far I have had no issues with the Explorer stuff for trials, but like I mentioned, I'm just a novice and nothing that hard. Sometimes I find it an advantage- like super slick hills that others (of my skill range) are having problems with- I can sit down and get very controllable traction and make it right up. Or seat bouncing double logs from a stop.
This is just because I have a LOT of years riding sitting down and pretty new to trials or standing all the time. I can balance my weight better for slick hills sitting (getting better when standing)
Plus even if I have to 'paddle' for a rut deeper than my footpegs I can make it. Without a seat I couldn't. (Plus only a 3 not a 5)
Guys better than me could stand on the 'seat' portion of the trials bodywork- but I'm not that good.
Others could just wheelie all the way. I'm not that good either.
For that matter, I'm plain not that good!
Mark
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Yes, ROX 2" risers.
It worked with stock bars as well, but he TE bars really help on the rough trails and a quicker pace.
I ditched the stock rear damper and installed the Ohlins. Much nicer, but cost too much.
I think Adrian has another option that is cheaper.
The stock was ok- but Ohlins a lot nicer.
I'm using Maxima Extra4. 0w10
100% Ester.
This is what Adrian said I should use. I change about every 10 hours or so.
I run Motorex full synth Cross Power 2T oil at 100:1
Lots of great rides near me also- check out some of my vids if you want.
Always happy to show you around if you get this way.
(Too hot east of the mountains now for me!)
Mark
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Edited by lotus54
If I had just a few extra bucks ( and bringing into the US would be such a hassle) I would buy it myself foe that much!
I have bar risers and twisted engineering flex bars on mine.
Yes, you need the TR plastics and move the Easystart box. The cables are long enough to mount on bars.
Yes, I thing the lower, stock bars give better control, but my kneck hurts on long rides and I'm just a novice trials rider that has only gotten to one even this year anyway.
Not a very good pic

But I'll be happy to show more if you like.

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I'm just over on the Olympic Peninsula in PA- I have the software/cables to do the TPS and other electronics.
Also have some spares.
I did buy a few things to have, just in case. But the bike has been really reliable.
I did break a suspension part once, but that was my fault.
The linkage bushings are higher maintenance than sealed needle bearings, but they are cheap and easy to service. (Wish they had zerk fittings)
I ditched the stock rear brake setup, I kept bending the rather heavy caliper mount. The TR one works a lot better and is a lot lighter to boot.
Starting is easy 99% of the time. If the plug is too dirty, aftermarket spark arrestor clogged or you give it throttle it doesn't start easily.
Conversion to full Trials is easy- maybe 15 minutes one you have the parts and make a mount foe the easy start box (assuming you leave on the headlamp).
Oh yeah, the stock rear brake pedal is awful, but the TR one bolts right on and is great.
Mark
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I have a 2014 OSSA Explorer (over 200 hours now) and have had excellent results.
(See other threads)
Parts are still around and I think OSSA will be back running. Lots of companies go into bankruptcy and return to service again. Plus they are trying to remove themselves from GasGas and back to on their own.
Where are you located?
I would certainly buy. 2014 OSSA.
Mark
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Lewisport is a BTWICE dealer, but they didn't have the leads for sale last time I checked.
I'd give them a shot first if possible.
I jut reset my TPS and did a slight baseline mix adjustment.
Starts first kick after sitting for days!
Still trying to get the a soph of my existing map before trying a newer one.
I'm about 90 miles west of Seattle (or within sight of Victoria for our Canadian friends) and glad to help out.
Mark
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There are newer maps that seem to help.
A lot really is how you start it.
1. Do not touch the throttle!!
2. If no easy start,first kick a brisk one but not really try to start (wakes up the ECU and charges the cap)
3. Take up the slack in the starter and give it a fast, hard kick.
Mine is newer (2014) with Easystart system and very rarely is hard to start.
If the sparking plug gets old it is harder, if he aftermarket spark arrestor plugs up it is hard to start.
Mark
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Now they I look closer, I'm Not really sure the setup I have is BTWICE- I thought. It was, but it doesn't say it anywhere on the packaging etc.
http://trialstribulations.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=31&products_id=2716
It is working well, although I have not written a new map yet. I'm waiting to get ahold of the map that is in there first, so I can return it if I don't like the new one.
Mark
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The idle speed doesn't affect mixture directly. BUT
The system is setup so that at idle speed a certain voltage needs to be present for the TPS.
This needs to be set and the ECU 'told' this is the idle setting. It not done correctly, the overall mixture can get messed up.
This happend to me after a 100 hours or so. A quick adjustment and reset and all was good again.
The BTWICE throttle body allows adjusting mixture thought messing with the throttle (it has a separate bypass). So if you want it different you can just Do a quick adjust anywhere and keep going.
Mark
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Edited by lotus54
They are sold out again- but you can ask to have another.How much were they from the uk? I did not see them on their website
It was $290 US shipped to me in the States. (With exchange at the time)
A bit more than I would have liked, but it works and if I have any issue (even a minors adjustment) I want to have them right here. I like a LONG way from the closest dealer (who has been very helpful)
Lewisport is a dealer, but they didn't have any to sell- last I heard they were waiting for a different setup. But I got tired of waiting.
Mark
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I finally broke down and bought some of the BTWICE. Diagnostic cables. I got tired of waiting for the other ones I kept hearing about.
I installed it on an old XP machine I have just for various diagnostics.
Works great!
It comes with software ( although I had to use a version of the KD-Scan I got from the dealer to make it install) and a bunch of maps.
I have not tried another map, I want to get a copy of the one I have now first. The bike is running pretty darn well now so if I I didn't like the new one I'd want to go,back.
The only place I could find them was Trials and Tribulations in England.
The instructions for installation could be a bit improved, but I didn't have any issues.
It is good to have a set here!
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I've replaced the bushings on mine a couple of times.
They are cheap, but also wear fairly quickly in the mud and water (I trail ride mostly)
I'd really like to have zerks.
One guy cross drilled the shafts and would remove the end bolt, fit a zerk, push grease through and refit bolt.
It would be nice to just leave the zerks in.
Running grease through could push out water, mud etc. (I think)
The suspension is pretty easy to dismantle, but I'd like fittings myself.
Mark
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If you still have it I'd be very interested in it-
Be good to make up a full 'kit' to replace for if mine goes.
Never got round to repairing old pump,sold bike a while ago, now on a 4rt.
The actual pump once removed from plastic housing is just a cheap made in china part, available on ebay for about £30. I couldn't seperate the fuel pipe from the pump though, but if you could find a way or made new fuel lines it could be a cheap repair, i just needed bike running again so fit a full kit for piece of mind
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I certainly have that problem, both hands thought.
Heated grips don't help me, since I try and keep a finger on each all the time.
I've wrapped them with good results, shirk tubing works also.
I wear nitrile gloves under my riding gloves when cold- much warmer.
Once my hands warm up I don't like the movement inside, but better than cold fingers!
I use a Clake 2- so that's my rear brake and clutch. I trial ride the bike most of the time and almost always have a finger of the lever.
I also have Reynolds conditon, and that makes it all worse.
Mark
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I don't have any issue at all with My fuel pump, but just thinking ahead to eventually needing one.
So I can get a KTM pump?
Anyone know which model?
Since it is a fair amount of work to remove, I wouldn't mind sourcing one now to have on hand.
Tom, have you don't anything toward working on your old pump?
Mark
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Sorry- 2stroke EFI works flawlessly.
I have one in my garage.
Have you ever even ridden one?
More complicated? I don't think so, but I find it very rare for people to really understand how a carburetor works. Even more so EFI of any sort.
I'm very much sold for a trials bike.
1. Packaging. Easier to get components in better locations.
2. No fuel leakage/flooding when tipped over (let's not talk about crappy OSSA Explorer fuel cap)
3. Multiple MAPs available. Easy switch to change how the bike runs.
4. Automatically adjusts for temperature and elevation.
5. Better running consistently (just my experience)
I understand those that don't want it. That's ok- but it does work.
Should I Buy An Ossa Explorer?
in OSSA
Mine has a. Letter C in that position.
#238
It was the first 2014 model in the States. I don't know about Canada.
I got it late September I think.
I'll PM my VIN