I just installed a pico. Plug and play and set it in the middle settings. My boy is how reag happy. This is with a 20Ah lithium battery. Works better than the new R model osets on power delivery.
Put the unit between the frame with zip ties at front of the bike. 5 min job And no experience needed.
Thanks for the info Scott.
Could you give a bit more detail as to where to get a Pico, whatever that is, and what's invloved to fit it?
Does it smooth out that harsh power delivery from a standstill?
I have emailed both Oset and Steve Saunders about trying to get this sorted but no reply from either as of yet.
Just planning ahead.....would anyone care to share how much the tickets sell for, and also what time the event usually starts/finishes?
The arena is about 3 hours drive from me. I want to take the offspring so if it starts early we can stay over on the Friday, but if it's a late finisher it would be better to stay on the Saturday.
I don't fancy driving there and back in one day. I would be tired and grumpy so god knows what the 7 year old would be like.
I had to rebuild my rear caliper and for the life of me still could not get a brake pedal
Here is a tip from Ryan young that worked wonders and gave me a brake.
With all the lines connected still take the rear master cylinder off and bolt it exactly where it goes but to the OUTSIDE of the frame. ITs like having a 3rd hand.
Take a dull object like a larger phillips screwdriver and push the piston in a few times and hold it. DONT MOVE NOW
Take a wrench and crack the banjo bolt loose on the top of the master cylinder and finish pushing the piston in until it stops. Tighten the banjo bolt and repeat. Do that 4 or 5 times and you will have a brake. I did mine every which way including back bleeding with a syringe and still could not get a brake pedal. Ryan told me this and it worked instantly
I thought that seeing as though I've got to take it apart again, I might as well do it properly, so I have ordered a rebuild kit from SplatShop for the front and rear calipers with nice new pads.
If it all goes tits up I will just keep it to myself and hide in a corner until it all goes away.
Suggest reading the above, there has been quite a lot of incorrect information posted and the penalties for breaking the rules are quite severe particularly for young riders.
I know of 2 riders who have had fines in the region of £450 to £600, A ban (to run from when they are old enough) 6 to 9 points on the licence, and on top of that they will face a 2 to 3 times multiplier on their insurance premiums for all vehicles which means say at 17 and 1/2 years old they may have to pay £3,000 to £4,000 to insure a very basic 1.0 litre car.
Limiting under 19s to 125 cc was the result of EU legislation, the UK coalition government saw no point in it, but Tony Blairs Labour government had already signed up to EU licence harmonisation. I think the ACU should have done much more to oppose the under 19 restriction.
+1 for this....took the link right out of my hands.
Had mine done a few months ago for the first time, so for the MOT -
It needs to be road worthy, obviously.
A continuous horn (eBay £8). Mounted behind my front number board.
A speedo is not required for an MOT but it is a legal requirement if you want to ride on the road.
A legal size number plate that is "permanently attached to the bike"...cable tied onto your backpack doesn't count, trust me!
No lights required but if the bike does have them fitted then they have to work.
On your tyres it might state "For off road use only in USA and Canada" on them. As long as they are in good condition all will be well......unless you're in the USA or Canada.
....yet another stupid AJP brake related question. But please allow me to indulge you.
Ok, so, my rear brake is crap...it worked (just) but was pretty pants. So I looked in to the problem, ie made things worse, so now it doesnt work at all!
Cue the abuse. Go on I deserve it.
So there is nice fresh fluid in the system.
Pads are fine.
Discs are fine.
The system has been bled.....originally back filled via the bleed nipple on the caliper and then today from the resevoir tube (to ensure the master sylinder gets filled) as suggested in another similar post.
The caliper seals are in good condition. No corrosion or debris in the caliper.....but those cheeky pistons just dont seem to want to budge when the pedal is depressed.
I am assuming that the master cylinder is ok due to the fluid being pumped out of the bleed nipple when there is pressure on the brake lever.
Am I missing something obvious or does it sound like caliper rebuild time with new pistons?
I noticed earlier that one pad is slightly more worn than the other which suggests a siezed caliper but seems odd that it now fails to work at all.
I have learnt my lesson with regards brake systems but please feel free to be sarcastic and judgemental.
I was hoping someone might be able to write me a shopping list for what I need to install one of those controllers to enable smooth power delivery from a standstill.
I will hopefully be getting someone else to install the controller as electrics really aren't my bag baby.
Looking at my local bike shop, BVM or perhaps just an auto electrician at a push.
If someone can oblige in time for the unwrapping on Christmas day that would be great.
Nice bike. A lesson I learnt the hard way regarding Sherco and Beta clutches is, when parking it up till next ride, tie the clutch lever back to the handlebars. This stops the plates sticking on a cold start. I use a piece of old inner tube.
This is after you have checked the system is in good order, as you have done.
+1 for this.
As soon as I am done I wrap a small bungy cord around the clutch lever and handlebars.
Clutch plates haven't stuck since. I can just kick, eventually (I get too excited), engage and go.
I had (and still have) a pair of Alpinestars Tech 6's back in the day for the motocross bikes so I felt confident in ordering Alpinestars No Stop boots. I knew the correct size would fit, even with Thor socks, and that they would be comfortable.
I read a lot of posts by people having sizing issues with various different makes. Some too small, some too big, having to return and order a size bigger etc.
Seeing as I was unable to get to a dealer that stocked the various different makes and models stated above, it was important to me that I could be confident in the size seeing as though I was ordering via the internet.
The No Stop boots are comfortable, sizing comes up true to your regular size and are nice and light....but then I have no experience of any other brand.
To be honest, if you can't make it to a shop that has all the different makes in stock available to try on side by side, any of the above mentioned boots would probably be fine......it all comes down to cash.
First thing is to check woodruff key in flywheel has not sheared, and it and the keyways are in good condition.
Next (using a dial test indicator in plug hole) mark TDC and 2.5mm BTDC on the flywheel. Attach a strobe light then spin the engine (battery drill is good for this) and see how far BTDC engine is firing. If it fires more than say 3.25mm BTDC then timing is almost certainly wrong. At this point you need manufacturers specifications or more advice.
Eh?
Thanks for taking the time to write that 'dadof2', a bit over my head if I'm honest.
I called BVM earlier so hopefully I'll be able to get it booked in for some alone time with someone who knows what they are doing.
Was hoping to pop up Zona1 and have a play/fall off lots bank holiday Monday, but might have to give that a miss.
Rather than starting this up again in the Sherco section asking for help, does anyone have any advice with where to start first with regards sorting this out?
I'd like to fix it myself if possible so an 'Idiots Guide' walk through would be much appreciated if someone has the time to spare.
Morning all....or afternoon/evening depending on where you are.
Popped out on the bike for an hour yesterday.
After I started it I selected 2nd gear and went to pull away as normal and when I slowly released the clutch it started to move backwards like I had selected a reverse gear.
It was really weird 'cause that was the last thing I was expecting it to do.
After selecting 1st and then 2nd again all was well, but I was curious if anyone else has experienced this, and if anyone knows as to why it might have happened? I'm curious.
Well I hate to admit it but I am victim of yet another moment of Plebness.
Seeing as though the sun was shining so bright here in good old Blighty, I thought I would take the bike out for a bit of fun earlier.
Got everything up together and tried to start it.....big fat NOTHING!
I was trying to start the bl**dy thing for about 5 minutes, checking this and checking that and with my previous pleb moment fresh in mind, I even checked to see if it had fuel in it this time, please no need for applause.
It was only when I went bursting through the back door into the house to complain to my other half at length that the poxy bike won't start that I happened to notice my kill switch lanyard hanging up on the key rack!
That's pretty impressive and doing it while vertical too
Hahaha yes well um.....for some reason the image rotated when it uploaded. Couldn't be bothered to go back and save the image rotated so it uploaded at the correct orientation.
Take a set of allen keys, a 10mm spanner and a socket set. Oh and a big hammer LOL.
It wont leak water out of the overflow, that only opens under high pressure.
The fuel tank should have a 1 way valve to stop fuel coming out.
If you have to lean it, it still wont leak oil but take an old towel to put under it just in case someone has overfilled it.
Give it a good check over, especialy the colour of the gear oil and the rear linkage, If it is a bit rough then walk away.
07 to 011 bikes are in the harder to shift bracket as the cheapies and the mint nearly new are the quick sellers, The middle of the range market is a funny one so don't worry, either knock them down loads or find another, there's plenty about.
Now that's how you reply to a post....many thanks Steve.
Not really a poster in here owning a Sherco and all, but a friend is in need of assitance....so I'm hoping you friendly lot can lend a hand.
We are going to view a 2010 TXT on Sunday.
What I would like to know is this...
The transport arrangments are less than ideal (nice big estate car) but I am hoping that by removing the wheels, handle bars and rear mudguard it might sit upright nestled in the back.
Failing that it will need to be led down for the journey.
Obviously the tank will come off and the coolant overflow will be plugged, but are there any issues related to lying a trials bike down for a journey? And also, can someone offer a little "you need" info with regards removing the wheels, handle bars, rear mudguard etc? I assume the tank will just lift out, but sizes of allen keys and spanners would be a great help.
Oset 16 Shopping List
in OSET Electric Trials Bikes
Posted
Thanks for the info Scott.
Could you give a bit more detail as to where to get a Pico, whatever that is, and what's invloved to fit it?
Does it smooth out that harsh power delivery from a standstill?
I have emailed both Oset and Steve Saunders about trying to get this sorted but no reply from either as of yet.
Regards,
Chris.