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lordendo

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  1. Hi All, We couldn't get this to happen in Canada, so we setup a showing in Bellingham on the 23rd at the Pickford Cinema. We need quite a few attendees before the show will happen - so if you're interested please sign up, put in your payment info and we'll see you there. You'll only be billed if the threshold is met and the event goes ahead as planned. https://www.tugg.com/events/12923 We're also using the event to raise awareness for the novice/kids training area that we're developing at Tamahi staging area in Chilliwack. C'mon up and try out our trails! Maps available at dualsportbc.com. http://www.gofundme.com/tamihikids Cheers, Ian
  2. Apparently 18-20 ft/lbs http://www.dirtrider.com/features/protips/wrenching/141_1007_avoiding_expensive_wheel_mistakes_with_dunlop_jay_clark/
  3. 20+ years with braces. I've had custom cast GEN2 (I think CTi bought them out), CTi, and Asterisk. I use my CTi snowboarding but wear the Asterisk dirt biking, mtb'ing and trials riding. What the Asterisk seem to have nailed over everyone else (at least a couple years ago this was true) is the attachment system. Trouble with CTi and everyone else's is that the straps tear the crap out of your leg. Yes, the brace socks help with this. The Asterisk corset method of backing is brilliant. Great support and doesn't tear you up at all. The other thing I've liked about the Asterisk is they're made for moto, so the knee cap protection is spot on - part of the brace, not just a screw on cap or attachment. The CTi and proper orthopaedic braces have the best ligament support though.
  4. Lol....so it is.... Damn. Ah well, it seems to be bent at the joint, not further up the shaft. Seems to work okay, but I'm going to try adjusting the damping just to be sure that there's oil in the shock still. Can't afford $650 for a new shock just yet. So far it looks like the TRP is the least expensive aftermarket and the Ollie OEM is the cheapest? Ohlins is around $800 or so. I'm talking US/Cnd $$ here. A TRP and stiffer fork springs would sure set the bike up nicely though....I'm 90kg so the stock suspension is a bit light.....
  5. IMO the best training for downhill is mountain biking. MTB'ers are experts at descent - it's all we have after all..... Brake modulation is a key concept - the front brake is your best friend and your worst enemy on the mtb.... On the mtb there are very few circumstances where the descent is steep and sustained long enough that sliding the rear brake is required for some semblance of control (I ride in BC....I know what steep is....). Trials, in my limited experience, is the same (as is Enduro). I always have the clutch out and utilize the engine as much as possible. If you're stalling it's probably because you're locking up your rear brake. Clutch in....no control.... Yes, sometimes the rear locks up (clutch in obviously) and it can be advantageous to slide the rear end around, but this is rarely required and IMO a somewhat uncontrolled technique. Personally (as on the mtb) I keep the front wheel weighted so I can modulate the front brake (without lockup) - the more both tires are turning the more control you have. If there's a turn I'll release the front brake and gingerly use the rear (usually not require 'cause I'm probably already creeping) - it's amazing how slowly you can creep down anything but a vertical descent with 'front brake modulation'...... Not sure if that's an actual term but it's what Endless Biking term the technique in their mtb courses. They teach the technique on flat gravel initially. You learn where the lockup point is for each brake independently and then learn to maximize your braking without hitting that point. Then try it on a descent but it's critical that you keep the front weighted. I had to be shown this to get it......ass off the rear of the bike with straight arms (the old north shore style) is just bad technique.
  6. Hmmmm....not sure how to edit posts.... It went together fine when I oriented it correctly - I think it was offset pointing forward. Not catching on anything and seems to operate fine (for now). It doesn't look to me like the shock shaft is bent at all, the offset is where the lower mount attaches. Could be bent but seems to work okay.....
  7. Here's a pic. Not sure if you can make it out, but the lower (pointing up) mount has probably a 10 degree offset to it.
  8. Sit right back and you'll hear a tale.... Hi all.....first post.... So I'm new to trials, not new to motorcycles and picked up my 2010 Sherco 2.9 last year. I've ridden it a fair bit and found that I bottomed it out pretty easily off of any kind of medium sized drop - 3 footish.... I also found that it was pretty damned tough to do tight bar to bar work without plowing. Despite that I managed to win the beginner trial in my club! Chocking all my problems up to inexperience, which is mostly true. Since day one though the bike sat way too straight on the kickstand. Constantly falling over unless it was just so. Kept noticing that my bike was raked out significantly more than others and it sat kinda low. So a year later I get down and look....lower shock bolt is 1/2 way out and jammed on one of the idler arms (not sure what they're called). So I've been riding with 1/2 rear suspension for a year.....yes....I'm an idiot but thought I'd share it to give everyone a good laugh. On to my question, the shock has an offset on the lower end. I tried it both ways and put it in the way that fit best, all went together smooth and the bike feels good. But....thought I'd ask. Which is the correct orientation - or is it a height adjustment (or trail maybe?) to spin it around?
  9. Thanks for the reply despite the thread hijack! :0) My spring is yellow.
  10. I've got a 2010 and am wondering about setup. I'm 190lbs without gear and can bottom it pretty harsly when I drop more than a couple feet. Not sure preload is gonna cut it - probably will need different springs?
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