Just to update on my clutch woes: It's now running absolutely sweet as a nut! I've done a few hours on it too on separate occasions and it's absolutely bob on :-) To summarise, all I really did in the end was change the two thicker friction plates for new standard thickness ones. I checked the steel plates for trueness (they were perfectly flat) and reassembled. I filled up with putoline gear oil (the nano-trans I'd ordered hadn't arrived yet!) and it was great; almost perfect with just the smallest amount of drag at times, it really made a big difference. once the nan-trans oil arrived I changed the oil again to the new stuff and now it's simply perfect! It's a dream to ride. The clutch feels extremely responsive at high revs and quick release and very controllable at low revs and slow release. I very highly recommend this putoline nano trans, it's fantastic stuff! Oh, just to confirm I has also done the clutch fix previously which seemed to help a bit at the time but strangely didn't last. Obviously it's all been down to the two thicker friction plates...and this mega oil. Btw, I didn't bother doing the glue filing and tab filing on the two new plates.
Well to be honest it's always possible that it was the connection at the junction of the wires and pulling it and replugging it sorted it.It's working a treat now and I've just done an hour on it. Thanks for the advice though.
Woops, sorry; I just found another thread but I had previously searched and didn't get a result:
Put the two thermostat wires together then start it up. If the fan spins it'll be the thermostat. If it doesn't it may be the fan, but try a test bulb to the thermostat supply wire first (better than a meter as it'll show if the supply has enough guts to run the fan).
Hmmm, another issue :-( My cooling fan isn't working and it's causing the coolant to overheat. I've had a good practice in the woods this morning and It's steaming and spitting out coolant from the overflow. Does anyone have any tips for fault diagnosis by any chance? Thanks in Advance...
My 2014 Beta caused me headaches after I bought it because the code on the frame equates to a 2013 model...I thought I'd been had! After researching it extensively it appears that they can apparently use an 'old' frame for a later model. It confused the hell out of me though. Everything on the bike was 2014 spec, including all graphics and anything they changed between 2013 and 2014.
I don't actually mind the fact that it springs up on its own, it's the fact that it can't be put down with your foot that bugs me (see my previous thread!). A fix for that would be good. Good tech tip though for anyone who doesn't like the spring-back function.
I also think the rear brake on my 2014 is weak. I've recently been thinking whether or not a fluid change/bleed/new pads would help, but if it's a known weakness then probably not! I'd also be interested in the 2017 'upgrade'. I'll have a look on Beta-UK and report back on price
Plastic bolts are the way to go, a couple of quid for a bag of 50. Best to also trim the bit of the guard that hooks under the frame so it doesn't snap off, you can get away without this bit but it helps keep muck away from the air filter.
Have you got a link for the plastic bolts? Do they just 'pop' out under pressure? It sounds like an interesting idea and at £70 a go for a replacement mudguard it's got to be worth a try!
Well I actually like it because unlike my old Gas Gas side stand it actually tucks away really neatly and never rattle or jumps up or down.It's just a minor annoyance that I have to use my hand to pull it down
Does anyone else find it annoying that you can't put your side stand down with your foot? It's irritating having to reach down to do it with my hand, to the point where I usually look for a tree or wall to stand it against instead!
Ooooh the whining noise doesn't sound good. Usually indicates a missing or chipped gear tooth. Check your tranny drain bolt.
As for the clutch going to hell after sitting that is not something I've experianced after the fix. Once the excess glue is removed the time to cold flow becomes irrelevant. Do you have the 4 thin 2 thick fiber configuration? Are you using any additives that might swell the fibers? Do you have any bent plates?
I think a disassemble and inspect is in order. Nothing in the fix should cause what you are describing. Something is definately in need of attention.
Oh no, I hope not!! I've never found any metal bits in the oil though. I'll take the clutch apart again and double check thicknesses and trueness, by bent plates do you mean the friction plates or the steel discs? It all seemed to be in order when I did the work though. The strange thing about the whining noise is that it hasn't got any worse, it's just always done it since I bought the bike and it doesn't affect performance in any way, that's why I was thinking it had to have something to do with the clutch dragging. Yes, mine has the 4 thin/2 thick configuration and no I'm not using any sort of additive at all. I've just reassembled the carb and run the bike paying particular attention to the whining noise (running great now btw :-)), the noise only starts when I start to release the clutch, right up to fully out and is proportional in volume/pitch to engine speed. It definitely seems to me like it's being caused by the friction between the plates as they are biting. Perhaps it's just normal on these Betas but I haven't had it before on other bikes. It certainly doesn't seem like a mechanical (metal on metal) noise.
On another note, when I started it up the clutch was behaving perfectly; no drag at all and easy to find neutral!! Maybe the dragging is related to gearbox temp as it seems to get worse when the bike's nice and warm.
After taking the reed block out I can see that the reeds are in perfect condition with no fraying or gaps, however there was some water in and around it! I can also see a bit of emulsification of the oil on the surface of the crank as I turn the engine. The water seems to have got in by the gasket between the reed block and the case, presumably from cleaning it. I guess if water can get in there then air certainly can so it looks like you both may be right about the air leak. I'll put some hylomar on the gasket and see how it goes.
Great stuff, thanks Dan. It's in bits now actually and it was pretty dirty (relatively speaking) in there to be honest.Unfortunately I don't have a compressor/airline but hopefully a few squirts of carb cleaner or similar will suffice. I've already cleaned it through with fresh petrol. The jets and needle/clip position are all standard luckily so hopefully a good clean will restore it to full working order. I'm going to take the reed block off now and inspect that, I still suspect that may be the problem but we'll soon see. If this doesn't work I'll check for an air leak.
The Beta Clutch Fix
in Beta
Posted
Just to update on my clutch woes: It's now running absolutely sweet as a nut! I've done a few hours on it too on separate occasions and it's absolutely bob on :-) To summarise, all I really did in the end was change the two thicker friction plates for new standard thickness ones. I checked the steel plates for trueness (they were perfectly flat) and reassembled. I filled up with putoline gear oil (the nano-trans I'd ordered hadn't arrived yet!) and it was great; almost perfect with just the smallest amount of drag at times, it really made a big difference. once the nan-trans oil arrived I changed the oil again to the new stuff and now it's simply perfect! It's a dream to ride. The clutch feels extremely responsive at high revs and quick release and very controllable at low revs and slow release. I very highly recommend this putoline nano trans, it's fantastic stuff! Oh, just to confirm I has also done the clutch fix previously which seemed to help a bit at the time but strangely didn't last. Obviously it's all been down to the two thicker friction plates...and this mega oil. Btw, I didn't bother doing the glue filing and tab filing on the two new plates.