harryharls

Thanks for the info baldilocks. I previously stated that I'd update on the cheap Chinese carb but I forgot to be honest. I'll do it now...utter crap, as expected really. Couldn't get it to run well at all with all sorts of jetting and tuning, stay away. I suppose we all knew that already really though didn't we? So the issue with the original carb remains for me. I've since replaced the inline fuel filter with a new one and re-checked the air filter sealing. I've checked compression, re=sealed all inlet gaskets etc. I simply don't know what else to do. The thing is, when it's running well, it's perfect. However, I get this blocked idle circuit issue on EVERY SINGLE RIDE, without exception. If run for long enough with the idle screw turned in (basically running on the needle and main jet) it will eventually clear and run well for a while, but then it will happen again. When the idle circuit is blocked it has no power at low revs (naturally) and stalls/bogs down on the slightest climb. I feel really bad for my son who has to endure this crap while I chug along merrily on my 250 which never misses a beat, ever. The upshot is; this thing is going, enough's enough. I'm getting rid and getting him a 125. This problem has persisted for so long that he's naturally ready for a 125 anyway. I will never be buying or recommending a Beta 80 to anyone again. It's completely crap. It's a good job that I'm so happy with my own 250 Evo or I'd be off Betas for life after this.

I feel your pain Jonevo! There will probably be some threadlock on the bolt so that doesn't help. Is it loose and spinning or have you already removed it? The thorough rinsing with petrol is what solved it for me. Try to increase the pressure on the damping rod a little more, if it's thoroughly degreased you should be able to get enough friction. There's no other way I don't think, so it just 'has to work' I'm afraid. Also try turning the bolt extremely slowly and carefully as you apply pressure on the rod.

Ha ha, just noticed your post mcoulson, should have looked first! Anyway, confirmation that it was a great suggestion ?

I know this is an old thread but I thought I'd update. Changing seals again on same forks, bushing still stuck on spring side fork. This time I heated the tube around the bush with a heat gun (not enough to melt the nylon bush of course), once warmed I pushed on the top of the tube with a block of wood, bottom of fork also resting on wood block. One nice satisfactory clunk later and the bushing was out, easy peasy. I had previously tried banging down onto the block but that didn't work, the simple push was the way. Hope this may be of help to someone else sometime.

PHEW! Turns out it was indeed a good call b40rt. Problem sorted. I was beginning to think about giving up TBH and trying to find a used one to buy. I rinsed it out thoroughly 3 or 4 times with neat petrol, draining fully after each one (much easier with thin petrol than oil) Once thoroughly degreased I held the slotted 'ring' at the bottom of damper tube with an alloy rod type thing, whilst simultaneously pressing on the top of the damper tube (hard!). I could tell straight away that there was more resistance on the bolt and it tightened up nicely. Thanks for all your suggestions. Note to self: never loosen the bottom bolt again!

That's a fair call b40rt, I was thinking the same about trying to remove all oil and degrease. I suspect it will be difficult though as we know how reluctant all the oil is to come out of the damper side fork. Worth a shot though.

No, the base of the damping rod with the two slots is below the top of the fork body with the rod fully extended. Beside, locking that just allows the component below if to spin independently. It's a very strange situation, it seems to defy logic! If I either push or pull on the damping rod it does cause the bolt to tighten slightly, but only slightly. I feel the issues are: 1. the oil is creating lubrication and exacerbating the issue, and 2. there will be thread lock/sealant on the bolt...I know this because I'd taken the spring side fork bolt out and that had thread lock on it.

I've tried that, that's how I loosened it. No luck with that method.

Part number 5 (damper rod) is the part with the slotted disc at the base that I can see. Part number 6 is what I presume the bolt screws into from underneath. I don't know how 5 and 6 are connected but there is obviously independence between them (they are able to spin on each other).

Hi all, I'm really really stuck! I was changing the fork seals on my son's Evo 80 (2018) and I stupidly loosened the bottom bolt at the bottom of the fork body on the right fork (the damping side). I had just presumed (wrongly as it seems) that this bolt would have to be removed to remove the oil seal. The issue is, now that I've loosened it, it will neither fully undo nor tighten. I presume it's got thread sealant of some kind on too which is exacerbating the issue no doubt. I'm pretty sure the forks are more or less identical to adult Evo forks such as my own 2014 250. However, I just can't find a solution to this online. I've seen quite a few suggestions about broom handles, compressing, pulling etc. but this is the non-spring side so nothing is really relevant to this. Looking down the stanchion, there is a sort of disc at the lower end of the damping tube/rod with two slots. I can hold this by the slot with a suitable device but the bolt continues to spin on whatever is at the very bottom, obviously whatever's there is connected but able to turn independently of the top damping tube/rod. There is no space to get past the damping rod/disc to get to whatever the bolt screws into. The stanchion won't come out without the lower bolt being removed. I've tried pulling on the damping rod and pressing on the lower end of the damping rod whilst turning the bolt, but no luck. Please help if you can, I'm completely stumped by this.

In desperation, I've purchased one of the cheap Chinese copies of the PHBG, the black 'racing' version (approx £40). It can't possible be worse and, you never know...I'll post back with how it goes.

Thank you but that the standard carb is a Dellorto PHBG 21 BS (or at least that's what's on mine), do you know what the difference is? It looks pretty much identical apart from the oil input feed. I was hoping it was going to a totally different brand, a much better carb. I'm totally fed up with this bike (carb). The pilot jet blocks within the first 15-20 minutes on EVERY ride! I've totally stripped and cleaned the carb down at least twice and removed it to unblock the pilot jet on countless occasions. It's got an inline filter fitted, the airbox/filter is totally sealed, I can only assume that the particles are coming from the carb itself, it's utter garbage.

p.s. I'm still on the same clutch pack and have never needed to replace it (with the exception of the two outer friction plates of course), I've had the bike at least four years.

Oh, I forgot, but I just looked back at my contributions to this thread: I also replaced the two thicker clutch plates for standard thickness ones. I can't say for sure whether this was what made the difference or whether it was simply the nano-trans oil but I suspect it was the oil. FYI, the Evo uses 6 friction plates, the outer two are slightly thicker for some reason. I replaced the two outer plates for standard thickness ones (the same as the inner four). Still think it's just the oil though!

Just use Putoline Nano Trans GP/N-Tech gear oil and save yourself all the hassle. Honestly, from my experience that's all you need to do! I tried all the filing and messing about and none of it really worked, once I put the nano Trans in, that was the end of it...sorted.

Have you got the model of the replacement carb you fitted please, and the jetting?

I've just got myself (my son) a 2018 Beta 80 and also wanted to confirm the model year. I've done a bit of digging and found that it's the 10th digit in the VIN that designates the model year, in my case the 10th digit is a J which, thankfully for me, denotes it to be either a 1998 or 2018 so all good there. The model year codes are as follows: A – 1980 OR 2010 B – 1981 OR 2011 C – 1982 OR 2012 D – 1983 OR 2013 E – 1984 OR 2014 F – 1985 OR 2015 G – 1986 OR 2016 H – 1987 OR 2017 I – Not used, because it looks like a “1” J – 1988 or 2018 K – 1989 or 2019 L – 1990 or 2020 M – 1991 or 2021 N – 1992 or 2022 O – Not used. Neither zero or the letter “O” are used as the 10th digit, thou zero may be used elsewhere in the VIN. P – 1993 or 2023 Q – Not used since it light be confused with O or 0. R – 1994 or 2024 S – 1995 or 2025 T – 1996 or 2026 U – Not used in the tenth digit, but can be used elsewhere in the VIN. V – 1997 or 2027 W – 1998 or 2028 X – 1999 or 2029 Y – 2000 or 2030 1 – 2001 or 2031 2 – 2002 (or 2032, etc...) 3 – 2003 4 – 2004 5 – 2005 6 – 2006 7 – 2007 8 – 2008 9 – 2009

Thanks overdale, that's good to know. Looking forward to trying it out this weekend ?

Interesting, mine is a 250 but I wonder if it would be better for the bike/engine to use super?

+1 for Putoline Nanotrans, it totally cured my dragging clutch issues on my 2014 Evo 250. I'd tried everything else but this was the only thing that worked...and so easy!

I hadn't even considered petrol type for my Beta Evo! I think I've just always used regular unleaded (95), should I be using super (97)?

Hi all, Just wondering if anyone else here has installed the Carbon Tech reeds to their Evo 250? I've installed a set but haven't had chance to test yet other than with the bike stationary. In the paperwork supplied with the new reeds it suggests that jetting/tuning may need to be altered. My bike is all standard in terms of idle jet/main jet/needle/needle position. I've spent loads of time in the past messing about with carb settings on various 2 stroke bikes and it's always a tedious and often frustrating process! If anyone has any experience of these reeds and can recommend settings it would be fantastic and a big time and hassle saver! It may be that the air screw just needs adjuting slightly or it may need a leaner or richer pilot jet or different needle position etc. etc.! Thanks in advance

Actually, I've just thought, considering that the actual fender itself is not broken,,,why not just fabricate a brace out of sheet aluminium to fit under the existing plastic brace? Or, even easier, would the Gas Gas brace fit under the Beta fender?

I agree about the fragility of the integrated plastic front fender brace, mine has cracked/sheared around both bolt holes on one side. This was only after a very minimal crash too! What worries me is that it now has pretty much zero structural effect in terms of keeping the forks together. Rather than buying a replacement Beta fender, I'm really interested in the Gas Gas replacement which has the aluminium brace but which model/year of Gas Gas fits please?

The blind bearing puller is a good idea Peter. I put 340ml in as suggested and just put it back together, it seems absolutely fine. In fact I cleaned all 24 sections tonight to win the trial, something I've never done before so it must be ok!! :-)