Jump to content

rcgods

Members
  • Posts

    226
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by rcgods
 
 
  1. Still sorting all the little jobs on the M91 I have been rebuilding for months and months, and now another project gets added to the list. A 1974 Sherpa with Homerlite tank, all there (or so it seems) with the usual tank and seat separation! Sadly this one is a long way down the list (5th I think).

  2. I use whatever it says in the owners manual using the same oil that it ran on in the 70s (my dad laid the bike up along with lots of oil) Duckhams 2T. Not had a problem with it in either of my bikes one is a fresh rebuilt engine and the other is the original factory build from new.

  3. I'm having the same problem with the clutch drain plug on my Sherpas, just cannot get a seal. I replaced the fibre washer and covered it in red hermetite, that does the trick nicely. I know it is a little bit of a bodge but stops the big red puddle under the bike after a couple of days.

  4. Do get some fuel vapour too so that sounds ok then. Just all the niggles to sort now I bought some levers from a well known supplier and my cables (from the most well known cable supplier) dont fit right and the lever adjusters and ferrules need "adjustments" to tweak them in.

  5. I have just finished bolting together my M91 sherpa and have a query at the moment it has no airbox on and is being run with an open carb (not ideal I know) but I noticed exhaust gas coming out of the carb is this normal and if not what would it point to the engine has been professionally rebuilt (new piston, mains, big end etc) and the carb is the original amal 627

    Thanks

    Pete

  6. all it needs now is the stickers to be applied and when dad gives me the money some falcons (if they make them for this bike??)

    Falcon do most standard lengths so you should be able to get some, give em a call they are very helpful

    And so my Sherpa actually runs, spent some time in the garage fitting all the extra bits (exhaust, carb, throttle, tank) and fired up on the 3rd good kick! Now down to all the niggly things but should be done soon.

  7. I am currently working my way through a Bultaco M91 restoration, mostly complete just cables, electrics and fuel. Then I'm starting on another M91 maybe then a 159 I have (along with trying to run a Pursang and restore a Frontera...) plus got all my spare engines to rebuild....

  8. You hity the nail on the head... the exhaust note is quieter but the power is restricted with the triangular box, also it fouls your leg. Why do you think riders took them off in 1971? :beer:

    Big John

    Mine was taken off one bike for the reason and the other was destroyed in a fire <_<. Put it onto my (running) restoration project bike (laid up since 1985) and tried to start it, took the box off et voila! A runner was mine due to taking the horrible box off.

  9. I agree with that, but with the exception of those Homelite blue/silver models. I can't ever recall seeing them with the alloy guards, even though they were slimlines with a different tank seat/unit. They must have had the alloy guards when they left the factory so were they changed to white over here

    When both of my Sherpas left the factory (M91s 1971/72) they had alloy guards, still have an original set (+1 extra front) in my shed. When the (2nd) bike was bought these were swapped for white plastic guards. Unfortunately the first bikes guards were lost in a garage fire (along with the bike)

  10. I've had a look in Historia De La Sherpa T (The Story) and the bike it looks most like is a M190 (September 1976 to Febuary 1977). Only thing that makes me wonder about it though is the rear loop, looks longer than that on the M190, maybe a hybrid?

  11. I think one of mine is doing that too... Parts are available from Dave Renham at Bultaco UK. Rebuild is easy enough, as long as when/if you replace the main bearings you dont beleive the haynes book of lies. Ended up shipping my engine off to Dave to sort, put the new bearings in and assembled upto the point of clutch and mag, tried to turn engine over and it was locked solid. Haynes say heat the case (250 odd degrees IIRC) and put bearings on the crank and push home crank into case half, but this doesn't work. Heating the case and dropping the bearings into them does though.

    If you anywhere near Kegworth/Nottingham/Midlands I can 100% recommend SEP in Kegworth as they do a top notch job and they do all kinds of engineering, crank rebuilds, rebores etc etc.

    Pete

 
×
  • Create New...