If the bike was running good before you took the carb apart, then you have obviously done something wrong. One of your jets is blocked? Take the jets out and look thru them for a blockage. Float's properly set?
I have put an Ohlins on the rear of my 2016 Factory, (after a rebuild it works pretty good, last half of the compression dampening was set 20% harder, at 245 pounds with gear i was bottoming too harsh, even with the heaviest spring) love the forks the way they are. The forks on the 2017 Factory not as good as the 2016s, but i haven't got around to playing with it. I would rather ride than didile with my knobs(suspension)!
Beta should seriously look at putting the Reiger or Ohlins rear shock on the Factory model, now that would be a nice upgrade! I tried my friends new 2018 GG 250 with the Ohlins shock the other day, loved it, very nice. He said it worked better than the Rieger that came on his 2014 GG.
You can make the bike easier to ride buy using the slow (black) throttle tube. I believe most British bikes came with a heavier flywheel. Can alway's add an extra gasket to the bottom of the barrel, lowering the compression. Ideally a 200cc Beta is the best bike out there for a newbie.
I have heard of one nearly new 2016 300 2t blowing a 2 inch hole out of the top of the engine case on the right side, just under the carb. In that case the dealer sent the engine back to Beta and a new replacement motor was sent back to dealer. Never heard what caused the problem. This is the only one ever heard about out of hundreds of Beta trials bikes sold in Canada over the last twenty or more years.
Can't go wrong with either one, newer is better, less hours? Smaller, lighter rider, or no experience would prefer the 250. Put it on a stand and feel how much play in the rear linkage and the wheel bearings, headstock. Any chips or scratches in the front forks. Leaking seals. Does it need a new chain and sprockets, any loose spokes?
I all way's look at who i'm buying from. Is his garage neat and tidy? does he look after his stuff. Or is there crap and garbage laying everywhere?
Why wouldn't you want to take it all apart? Everything has to be greased anyways. Not a lot of grease in there to begin with, and on two of my new Betas i found that the bushings/washers had broken a portion off, thus would have let in water in. While your at it (and you have the rear wheel off) get a couple of little picks and carefully remove the outer seal of the wheel bearings and grease them too! Unless your one of those guy's who gets a new bike every year!
The Slovenian made black box's where terrible on the 02 and 03 models, cheap though. I know a guy who used to always carry one with him on a long trail ride they where that bad.
Sure doesn’t feel like it. For years I’ve had people tell me Betas had carbon fiber reeds. The ones I put under the microscope were obviously fiberglass painted black. You can tell because the exposed fibers are clear. I’ll put in carbon reeds and have a look when I pull the stock ones out.
V351C are still available from some suppliers, but they are very expensive, 250$ compared to 60$ for the boyseen carbon-tech. Are they really worth the difference?
Thanks to Heather for naming my new bike. Alrighty then. First impression from a section scouting ride not much section riding. It feels a lot like my 2013 300 EVO. Clutch is surprisingly progressive with no stick but pull is harder. Not surprising as the stock spacers have yet to be replaced. Handling and suspension seem very close to the ‘13. Tough to tell though as both ends are just starting to loosen up. The new rear master cylinder makes the rear brake a little more sensitive. Front brake is the same. Engine is still breaking in so it feels a little flat on top and bottom. I can feel a real difference not having the carbon reeds as I stalled quite a few times when the going got tricky where the ‘13 with the VForce carbon reeds would have just grunted and pulled me through.
The real shocker is how this bike shifts. The ‘13 has always shifted, well, like a Beta. Notchy, clunky and with a tendancy to drop out of second into neutral if I wasn’t careful to make sure I felt every bit of the shift mechanism clack into place before proceeding. The first crash I had on the ‘13 was from it popping out of second on a climb so it wasn’t just wear. The ‘13 has actually gotten better over time but it’s still clunky. The 2018 snicks into gear like a Japanese street bike. Just a short tap and it’s in a new gear. Downright freaky for a Beta rider.
The ignition coil is on the other side of the bike and the CDI seems very exposed dangling down from the right side of the frame. This makes the choke on the Keihin, once difficult to access, now impossible to access. The fuel shutoff is also now much more difficult to get at. The voltage regulator is mounted behind the headlight and is larger with a heatsink. The new stock footpegs are quite nice. The fuel filler neck has a vent tube along with the vent tube on the new gas cap. Brought to you by the Department of Redundency Department. The suspicion is things are being moved around to make way for a future fuel injection system. The larger regulator would certainly lean that way.
So that’s about it from day 1. Still feels like the bikes I know and love. Now to start fettling to make it my bike.
Hi Dan, I see that you had installed Vforce carbon reeds to your 2013 model, is that the full cage and double reed assembly? (if so what part#) or just the carbon reeds like boyseen sells? Thanks.
When you have the carb apart, take out the float bowl pin (if it hasn't already fallen on the floor!) hold it on a vice and smack one end of the pin. Not to much, just enough so that when you put the pin back in it will stay in place and not move back and forth freely.
I had the same problem on my 2016 4t, i just took a file and removed a few millimeters off the front of the hole that the axle slides in the swingarm. Bike looks good with the gold D.I.D. chain.
Mobile 1 0w-40, will have give it a try. It was only 3 degrees when we went for a ride yesterday. I've got 10 liters of it sitting in the garage for my Toyota.
I've had a number of 300s, both 4t and 2t. Went back to a 250 for it's softer power. Would have got the 300ss if i had tried it first. Depending on you weight and experience, the 200 could very easily be the best bike for you.
I have the 2016 factory 300 4t. Lot's of power, once the jetting is figured out (replaced stock 120 main with a 127.5) bike starts good. Put an Ohlin on the rear, once it was revalved it works as good as the stock shock! Also have the 2017 Factory 250 2t. love it too. If they're the same price, get the Factory model.
I run stock gearing on my 2016 300 4t, but feel there is a pretty big jump from 2nd to 3rd. But i feel the same way about my 2017 250 2t as well. May have to try the 10 tooth one day.
I find the oil gets dirty quickly. If i abuse the clutch the oil turns dark after only a few rides. I don't want that dirty oil running thru an engine i want to keep for a long while. Just recently tried Rotella T 15wt-40. Worked just fine. Cheap as dirt. Subaru owners prefer it for there turbo engines.
Cut a broomstick to the length of your handlebars. Drill a hole thru the middle. Put a 3' rope thru the hole. Attach a 3 pound weight to the end of the rope. Now role it up and down 10 times. As you get stronger add more weight. Do it 3 times a week. No more arm pump. (Do deep knee squats on a wobble board at the same time.)
Beta evo won't run
in Beta
Posted
If the bike was running good before you took the carb apart, then you have obviously done something wrong. One of your jets is blocked? Take the jets out and look thru them for a blockage. Float's properly set?