Definitely worth getting a grab strap (webbing strip handle that fits over the rear mudguard frame supports) - worth it's weight in gold! Ive put a link to a version here but not sure if is allowed - loads around on auction site though!
Well, I have owned a 250 4T version (2010) for about 4 years and maybe it's not typical, but I have never had to adjust the valves. I just change the oil and filter regularly and it just keeps running very nicely. I did feel concerned that I should be checking the valve clearances after owning it for a couple of years so I did, and they were spot on so I leave them alone now! I guess I'll be able to tell if they do need adjustment from a sound change or maybe drop in performance? My friend has a 4T 300 and he seems to have the same approach - and his runs sweetly too. They are lovely bikes, although you may find they ride softer than your two stroke (that suits my style of riding though).
I have an Evo 2010 4T. Front sounds like your friend's set up... mine has a "spring pin" made from bent wire and a screw in pin. The rear is just a screw in pin.
https://www.tricksinthesticks.co.uk/ This is in Kent - Jason provided me and a friend with an excellent day's tuition last year. Definitely worth contacting.
I had a 2007 that looked very similar but my wheels were plain alloy - I think those black/silver rims came in 2008 and stayed for a few years including the Evo. Of course, they may not be the original rims. Good bikes regardless, if they are well looked after.
I bought some WulfSport trials boots when I started (the cheapest at the time), and they are still going strong. You only have to slip off the footpeg and skin your shin once to realise that you need proper high boots! I think I'll choose some slightly more flexible/light boots next time, but they are fine really. I try to treat them to some Duck wax now and then and they keep out water quite well. Judging by the number of scratches and scars they have, they have done a good job keeping my legs and feet safe! There seem to be plenty of S/H boots on eBay - maybe lots of riders are anticipating a visit form Santa?!! Good luck.
Most Beta owners have a dent in their van because of this! ... every Beta I've been aware of does this (mine and friends)... warm it up for a bit in neutral, kill the motor, then select 3rd, roll back and forward whilst sitting on it with clutch lever pulled in until you feel it free up. Put it back in Neutral, then start up, and off you go. The clutch mod on the Beta forum helps, but I think its just a "thing". Good luck! Mark
There's a chance that the last few drops of fuel may have included debris or water. I would start by popping off the float chamber and looking at what's in the bottom - any bits there would suggest the jets may need a clean out.
I'm lucky to have a 250 4T (my friend upgraded to a 300, so I bought it from him). I started on a Rev3 270, and the difference is remarkable! The 4T is smooth and very quiet and seems to be very forgiving of a beginner rider like me, with good torque low down. There is still plenty of power there though, when you need it. I think the 300 4T isn't too different, though it sounds louder (not as loud as a Montesa though!)
I did this on my previous bike (Rev 3) - wire both switches in parallel so if either is operated, the engine will stop. As Nishijin indicates, you need to find a suitable point to take the feed to the new switch (one earth wire, one from the coil), so trace back the existing kill switch wires and make suitable joins so they are out of the way and won't snag on anything or get wet.
Forgive me if this is a stupid question, but are you standing on the pegs, leaning a little forward? I only ask because if you are sitting down or leaning back, the front may be a bit unweighted, causing control problems. Also if you give it a lot of revs and drop the clutch a bit quickly it will leave you behind (most modern trials bikes would too, I guess). Definitely worth trying the suggestions above (especially getting someone at your club to give it a try). In 1st gear you should be able to gently slip clutch and move off at idle speed without revving it. Maybe find a flat bit of land and practice this. It does take practice but if your bike is working correctly, I think it should be a good one for you, given your experience on big machines. Good luck!
Just watched and really enjoyed it! I think you captured the experience of a club trial perfectly and it's good to see a wide range of riders of all ages, abilities and genders. Nice to see people helping with fixing each other's bikes and also a dedicated regular observer... they make such a difference.
I ride beginner routes in the south so no rocks, but your sections looked similar in terms of tricky turns and a few climbs, so very relatable. Nice little "interviews" with a few characters too... There seem to be plenty of those in trials and it's always been very friendly and welcoming for me.
I'm sure it must take quite an effort to put these films together, but if you are up for it, I'll definitely be watching the next!
I adjust mine with it on the side stand and use a thick finger rather than precise 20mm measurement, but this seems to be ok and I don't think the chain is over-stretched when suspension is fully loaded.
I just had a look under my 2010 evo 4t 250.... I can't see any obvious place except perhaps onto the linkage bolts themselves - not sure how far between the sides of the bracket on your guard, but they look quite large diameter holes, so maybe?
A good age to start I think! I've found everyone on here to be very helpful. Check out your local club - every body who does club trials seems to be really supportive and friendly. I'm still riding the easy routes after a few years since starting, but always finding little improvements (and still making rookie errors!!). That's the beauty of the sport - you can participate at any level. I am enjoying a 2010 beta 4T - If you buy a fairly modern bike, well looked after, you will spend more time riding and less tinkering, but the bikes are generally easy to work on and there is a wealth of knowledge from the other members on here to help if you need to. Good luck! Mark
I had an 07 rev 3 270 - I fitted a couple of thick base gaskets, I think it softened the engine a bit but can't promise it made it much easier to kick. It's worth a try though and they seem fairly easy to source online.
I'm afraid I can't help with the breather routing - I guess the tube routes it well away from normal water risk, but you may have blasted some in with your washer. Glad you cleared whatever it was though!
silly beta evo question
in Trials Training And Technique
Posted
Definitely worth getting a grab strap (webbing strip handle that fits over the rear mudguard frame supports) - worth it's weight in gold! Ive put a link to a version here but not sure if is allowed - loads around on auction site though!
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/404755631465?itmmeta=01HSDR7BNC19EZC59FEAYXGVFM&hash=item5e3d50cd69:g:~5UAAOSw~nxg5~D9&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA0Ou6JjPXWL6vXvP866avDG2AoHpTCOs0r9%2FFJsogMOgfzbF%2Fr1bdwqpUuR--VOBwLE60xurlMg7OPFkXS%2FE8sPQLx9%2F6Axu9i9FxtXTctPZgI3%2BdN6Ee7pD8BpwTdVG3%2BQgNpo4Yy3NJHnr1gumUlZoiJS9VkQeRFsj%2BXpFZpQAXTJ4XmL%2FLMbT%2BXWyhwkdtOskYvTwlME6EpTdp2oN7XYCVfjeLyAgxad5oJR9iUhcIS9g9qlXc0ss6FVwHus%2F0DNxnhXLkRZozitkwgVsK0VE%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR-K6nbjLYw