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Everything posted by markparrish
  1. There's a chance that the last few drops of fuel may have included debris or water. I would start by popping off the float chamber and looking at what's in the bottom - any bits there would suggest the jets may need a clean out.
  2. I'm thinking of trying one of these - any reviews?
  3. I'm lucky to have a 250 4T (my friend upgraded to a 300, so I bought it from him). I started on a Rev3 270, and the difference is remarkable! The 4T is smooth and very quiet and seems to be very forgiving of a beginner rider like me, with good torque low down. There is still plenty of power there though, when you need it. I think the 300 4T isn't too different, though it sounds louder (not as loud as a Montesa though!)
  4. I did this on my previous bike (Rev 3) - wire both switches in parallel so if either is operated, the engine will stop. As Nishijin indicates, you need to find a suitable point to take the feed to the new switch (one earth wire, one from the coil), so trace back the existing kill switch wires and make suitable joins so they are out of the way and won't snag on anything or get wet.
  5. Forgive me if this is a stupid question, but are you standing on the pegs, leaning a little forward? I only ask because if you are sitting down or leaning back, the front may be a bit unweighted, causing control problems. Also if you give it a lot of revs and drop the clutch a bit quickly it will leave you behind (most modern trials bikes would too, I guess). Definitely worth trying the suggestions above (especially getting someone at your club to give it a try). In 1st gear you should be able to gently slip clutch and move off at idle speed without revving it. Maybe find a flat bit of land and practice this. It does take practice but if your bike is working correctly, I think it should be a good one for you, given your experience on big machines. Good luck!
  6. pretty sure it's called an eyelet https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0912VG8G1?pd_rd_i=B0912VG8G1&pd_rd_w=lrOdl&pf_rd_p=38ac87d3-6443-4c7b-8193-5dd01b7235aa&pd_rd_wg=9x8rN&pf_rd_r=BMX18QEPFJVTXN6KQZ94&pd_rd_r=46d986fe-98ef-4801-a01d-90e0575d1445 you can get different sizes but you probably need to buy the little punch tool to make a good job of closing them up!
  7. Just watched and really enjoyed it! I think you captured the experience of a club trial perfectly and it's good to see a wide range of riders of all ages, abilities and genders. Nice to see people helping with fixing each other's bikes and also a dedicated regular observer... they make such a difference. I ride beginner routes in the south so no rocks, but your sections looked similar in terms of tricky turns and a few climbs, so very relatable. Nice little "interviews" with a few characters too... There seem to be plenty of those in trials and it's always been very friendly and welcoming for me. I'm sure it must take quite an effort to put these films together, but if you are up for it, I'll definitely be watching the next! Thanks! Mark
  8. I adjust mine with it on the side stand and use a thick finger rather than precise 20mm measurement, but this seems to be ok and I don't think the chain is over-stretched when suspension is fully loaded.
  9. I just had a look under my 2010 evo 4t 250.... I can't see any obvious place except perhaps onto the linkage bolts themselves - not sure how far between the sides of the bracket on your guard, but they look quite large diameter holes, so maybe?
  10. Blocked small jet I suggest. Good luck
  11. A good age to start I think! I've found everyone on here to be very helpful. Check out your local club - every body who does club trials seems to be really supportive and friendly. I'm still riding the easy routes after a few years since starting, but always finding little improvements (and still making rookie errors!!). That's the beauty of the sport - you can participate at any level. I am enjoying a 2010 beta 4T - If you buy a fairly modern bike, well looked after, you will spend more time riding and less tinkering, but the bikes are generally easy to work on and there is a wealth of knowledge from the other members on here to help if you need to. Good luck! Mark
  12. I had an 07 rev 3 270 - I fitted a couple of thick base gaskets, I think it softened the engine a bit but can't promise it made it much easier to kick. It's worth a try though and they seem fairly easy to source online.
  13. I'm afraid I can't help with the breather routing - I guess the tube routes it well away from normal water risk, but you may have blasted some in with your washer. Glad you cleared whatever it was though!
  14. It sounds like there may be some dirt in the carb or gloopy old fuel - maybe in the small jet. I'd take the carb off and give it a good clean.
  15. very risky behaviour!!
  16. It's a tiny amount of oil. You fill it up until it dribbles out of one of the studs (removed) - the book will tell you which stud for the cases you have (it's very helpful - as already stated)
  17. I guessed the hex head would be for holding whilst you tighten the spindle (it doesn't have much to get a purchase on). If it was threaded it would make some sense to be left handed but a bit of a mystery! hopefully someone on here will have some knowledge of the frame. Good luck with it.
  18. it might be worth screwing the spindle back in all the way, and then back off about one turn. Try a gentle tap inwards with a soft faced hammer or normal hammer with alloy spacer. This might drift out the threaded section at the other end. If it doesn't budge it probably means it is also threaded in but my feeling is it wouldn't be. If it does move, remove spindle and use a soft drift so you don't damage any threads. Good luck
  19. I've been making a full sized drawing in preparation for making a frame for my C15 - I am basing it on the "Otter" but experimenting with the bits I have and the bits I think I could make. It will be a "special" but, as it is, it wouldn't meet Scottish regulations so I'm not spoiling anything. I love making things I can use, so that's good enough for me! Good luck with yours. I'd love to see your frame jig.
  20. If you can afford a new bike, why not buy the right one rather than "taming" the wrong one? Go for a 250!
  21. I'm just trying to get my head around all this - for a project I am planning. This thread on another site (I hope I'm allowed to post this - please let me know if not and I'll remove it) https://trials.com.au/forum/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=9348 explains the complex relationship between all the geometry you are playing with. It has helped me to realise that just changing one thing to match another bike won't necessarily make your bike better. Good luck - let us know what you decide and how it works.
  22. maybe one of these? ...sorry, not very funny!
  23. Anything at all would be great for me! I'm still riding beginners routes and our local trials are usually based on a series of steep climbs/turns on muddy/chalky ground, so I rarely encounter rocks. I can just about clear small logs (not pretty!), so any techniques for negotiating modest obstacles/logs/steps would be good for me to practice. I agree that some of the expert videos assume a lot of basic knowledge, but I guess that's appropriate for what they are. There isn't too much I am aware of for some "beginner" progression. Thanks
  24. That's a really helpful way to show what you are doing! I'd love to see a few more of these kinds of tips... they are very helpful for those like me who want to progress a bit. Thanks!
  25. looks like a great event! Nice to see so many ages of rider all enjoying the same area.
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