Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by markparrish

  1. It's a tiny amount of oil. You fill it up until it dribbles out of one of the studs (removed) - the book will tell you which stud for the cases you have (it's very helpful - as already stated)
  2. I guessed the hex head would be for holding whilst you tighten the spindle (it doesn't have much to get a purchase on). If it was threaded it would make some sense to be left handed but a bit of a mystery! hopefully someone on here will have some knowledge of the frame. Good luck with it.
  3. it might be worth screwing the spindle back in all the way, and then back off about one turn. Try a gentle tap inwards with a soft faced hammer or normal hammer with alloy spacer. This might drift out the threaded section at the other end. If it doesn't budge it probably means it is also threaded in but my feeling is it wouldn't be. If it does move, remove spindle and use a soft drift so you don't damage any threads. Good luck
  4. I've been making a full sized drawing in preparation for making a frame for my C15 - I am basing it on the "Otter" but experimenting with the bits I have and the bits I think I could make. It will be a "special" but, as it is, it wouldn't meet Scottish regulations so I'm not spoiling anything. I love making things I can use, so that's good enough for me! Good luck with yours. I'd love to see your frame jig.
  5. If you can afford a new bike, why not buy the right one rather than "taming" the wrong one? Go for a 250!
  6. I'm just trying to get my head around all this - for a project I am planning. This thread on another site (I hope I'm allowed to post this - please let me know if not and I'll remove it) https://trials.com.au/forum/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=9348 explains the complex relationship between all the geometry you are playing with. It has helped me to realise that just changing one thing to match another bike won't necessarily make your bike better. Good luck - let us know what you decide and how it works.
  7. maybe one of these? ...sorry, not very funny!
  8. Anything at all would be great for me! I'm still riding beginners routes and our local trials are usually based on a series of steep climbs/turns on muddy/chalky ground, so I rarely encounter rocks. I can just about clear small logs (not pretty!), so any techniques for negotiating modest obstacles/logs/steps would be good for me to practice. I agree that some of the expert videos assume a lot of basic knowledge, but I guess that's appropriate for what they are. There isn't too much I am aware of for some "beginner" progression. Thanks
  9. That's a really helpful way to show what you are doing! I'd love to see a few more of these kinds of tips... they are very helpful for those like me who want to progress a bit. Thanks!
  10. looks like a great event! Nice to see so many ages of rider all enjoying the same area.
  11. markparrish

    Tire musings

    My rev 3 rim was quite corroded when I took off the old rear tyre, and despite my best efforts I couldn't get a good seal from the rim band, so I fitted a tube. With a nice new Michelin the grip was amazing and the tyre stayed seated properly. Good luck.
  12. I was in the same position as you when I bought a Rev 3 - I asked and searched for about two years and eventually gave up and ordered a "generic" stand which I thought I might be able to adapt...and surprise, surprise a 2nd hand Rev 3 one came up on auction the same week! So perhaps if you have no luck, order something else?! There seem to be lots of bikes with stands removed, so they must be about somewhere though - Good luck.
  13. If it's on level ground I would say no brake needed - maybe just cover the front brake. It's a lot of clutch control.
  14. My money is on a blocked jet or an air leak between carb and engine.
  15. my friend modified his by cutting a couple of slots in the floor near the front for the front wheels of two bikes to partially drop into, before strapping them down. He can still use it as a proper trailer between trials - clever, I thought!
  16. Just had a look at mine to gauge the amount of space. I wonder if you could pack out and protect the inside of the frame with some hardwood or aluminium and then use a steel wedge (a bit like the ones used to release a drill from a morse taper sleeve) to drive the bolt back through the way it came. You could work from below, tapping the wedge upwards and when (if!) the bolt moves a little, add a spacer and repeat - it may free up once the broken end clears the bush.
  17. Are both wheel spacers the same size? If they are different they may have been put in the wrong way round - swap left with right?
  18. I find that whenever this happens to me it is because I have let my weight shift back, away from the bars. Also I've been told to steer more with the footpegs - leaning the bike over into the turn. Usually when I remember to correct this on the second lap, it solves it, but on loose stuff it's always tricky especially if I give it too much gas!
  19. Ok then... I currently have a 2010 Evo 250 4t as my practice/competition bike. I have only been riding for a couple of years since getting back into bikes, and never tried trials up until that time. I started out with a Rev3 because they had been recommended as being quite tough and easy to get (most!) parts for still. I would have kept it but my friend, and local club-mate was upgrading and selling the 4t. I had tried it before and loved the smooth engine and steady power delivery. It has given me a bit more confidence and my riding was gradually improving up until the lockdown. It seems to climb slippery hills better than the 2t and is so quiet I can even practice in the garden without upsetting anyone! My other bike is a 1963 BSA C15. I have bought this because I wanted an old British bike to tinker with and make bits for. I love making things, and this has kept me very busy so far! Keeping the oil inside is quite an art! It's a bits and pieces bike - very heavy and not really a specialist trials bike, but I can see myself gradually improving it. It is probably the cheapest way into the "pre 65" scene I have seen - most of the other makes and models are way beyond my price bracket! It wasn't completely original when I started and I think it will only ever be a "special" in local club trials, rather than complying with the more stringent pre 65 rules, but I could aim to get it up to spec once I have it running and I get more used to riding a "tank"! So far I am really enjoying it.
  20. https://betausa.com/content/SUPPORT_PDF's/2006%20Rev%20Owners%20manual.pdf this is in Italian. I'm afraid, but might be of some help. I had a paper version in English but I gave it to the new owner of my old Rev 3. The betaUK site is down at the moment.
  21. https://www.beta-uk.com/ is a UK Beta specialist - their website looks like it's being rebuilt as I write this, but when they are running they have parts diagrams for all years and you can compare part numbers to see if yours are interchangeable. At a glance, I'd say lots of them are but the forks and swingarm are different from my old 2007 for example. The oil mix is closer to 70:1 on the 2007. I imagine 40:1 would be too strong. Good luck - It will be great fun! Mark
  22. 55, surely? - unless they are the Lite version!
  23. I think you raise an interesting point, and perhaps I am one of those who has contributed to the bike repair posting problem (sorry!). I tend to "hover" in all areas, reading what others are posting, and asking the occasional question or contributing a reply if I can help, but, being very much a "beginner" in terms of competing - only once a month on the wobblers route at my local club, I suppose I feel I have little to contribute to most of the discussions about national and international high level competition. I think nearly all of my posts have been maintenance related and, for me, this is an excellent aspect of this site. I find the SSDT footage and reports very interesting as I feel I can relate to the style of riding and terrain more than the indoor hopping around events (although I know I will never get to the standard required to even attempt a SSDT section!). I think in any sport there are those like me who enjoy taking part at their own level, sharing an interest, and supporting local events. Others do all that but also love following/supporting/spectating professional level sport, and they have their heros and opinions to share. I hope your observation encourages more discussion and posting of the things you enjoy on here, and I hope I can expand my knowledge a bit more too! Cheers.
  24. Welcome Jon! I'm sure you will get lots of help on here - loads of very knowledgeable enthusiasts; I've found endless great tips and gained some great advice. Good luck with your bike. Mark
  25. well, I had a similar issue with my C15 (in recent post) The advice I got was to check no air leak between carb and inlet, which I did. I also stripped and completely cleaned the carb - I suspect there was some dirt or dried out residue in there... there was some visible gunge - especially in the bottom part of the main jet assembly. I seems to have done the trick. I have a very different carb but I guess these are common places to start from. Good luck
  • Create New...