PAULIE

Im building some now... [url=https://postimg.cc/xcN6FLMp][img]https://i.postimg.cc/BQMRbg63/IMG-0183.jpg[/img][/url] [url=https://postimg.cc/0rBtfVMJ][img]https://i.postimg.cc/Wb2QsKsS/IMG-0186.jpg[/img][/url]

My VIN didnt have a match either. For a 2012 model the 10th charachter should be a "B" if it was made in late 2011or a "C" if made in early 2012.

Avoid buying an obscure bike. I was eyeing this 90's Fantic near me because it is clean, very low $ and approriate for the basic plonking I do but research revealed parts availablity is almost nil. I then bought a '10 EVO and although it is considered ancient (as far as EVO's go) I'm very happy with it.

What was found to be the issue?

I'd say a Beta EVO of any year because the model has had a long run without major changes. Some might say this is a bad thing but it results in tons of knowledge and great parts availability. It's surprising how many parts from the years 2009 - 2022 are the same.

Suspension is too soft for my 240lb so in goes some stiffer springs. 85N/mm is the grey ...and a little bling on the way home

The clutch works fine when moving so I'll live with it. When cold with engine off I put it in 4th, pull in clutch and break it free with a hand turn of the wheel

There wasn't a ton of play so I added only one .005" (.12mm) shim. Rode it today and it drags just the same.

I'm not good enough of a rider to notice the age difference Even a much older bike would suffice but the parts are too hard to obtain now.

Had a 2020 GG 280 and now a 2010 Evo 290 (Oh the HORROR!) Even though its a lot older I like it better. Starts easier and the power is more friendly A 250 Factory would be the bees knees Someday

With a cold engine, when I plug the jumper into the connector fan comes on and when unplugged it turns off. With engine warmed up it works as it should cycling on and off so it seems good.

remove this cover Starting from the thermo sensor on radiator, trace the wires back to the connector under the cover you just removed. Fab a jumper cable and disconnect the connector. Start bike up and plug jumper into the connector end that is coming from the CDI box near the carb area. If fan does not turn on the fan and/or thermo sensor might be in need of replacement

Last week's test ride revealed a good amount of clutch drag. It's just enough that neutral cannot selected at idle. Going to check the actuator free-play first and shim if necessary ("the mod"). Then the plates and basket

Interested in feeling how this changes things...

Congrats, start a thread! Wheel bearings are easy out and in.