kiki

The manual and parts diagram refer to it as a "vent screw". When refilling the coolant, the screw is removed for the first stage of the fill until it overflows out of this hole, then the screw is replaced before the bike is held vertical (wheelie style) and the rad filled until coolant comes to the neck of the rad.

I acquired a 2017 Evo 250 And noticed a clutch that would not come “unstuck”. I ran through the fix in about 3.5 hours. Additionally I installed a Clake One clutch (m/c). Wow. What a sweet change in all respects

I am new here, but i I have 30 years wrenching on bikes (with several as a shop tech). I saw your post and was curious, so i downloaded the 2012 service manual for that engine. I assume you have the DVD for the 2016 , which may have some variations. I have ridden the 2016, and it setup looks familiar to the one i downloaded (specifically the attachment points and general space). And the parts diagram between the 2016 and 2012 look the same. There may be a trick to servicing the pump shaft with the engine in the bike, but the manual , i believe, suggests removing the engine. for 2012, the impeller shaft is run off the cam shaft. the impeller is removed fairly easily, but its drive shaft requires a tool to unscrew it from the attached gear. There are 2 bearings supporting the shaft on either side of its drive gear, so logically, when you pull the shaft out, the gear would succumb to gravity, and fall somewhere south of its normal home. This wouldn't be a big deal if you were dissembling the whole engine top end. Judging form the photos in the manual, the shaft seal would be more challenging without removing the shaft first..but. there are lots of tools available to remove a seated seal on a fixed shaft like that. The cheap tool is a slide hammer with a screw tip. commonly used it for counter-shaft seal removal. I would assume it would work fine there, since i referred to the parts diagram for your bike.Once the old seal is out, you would need a seal driver to put a new one in (or a deep socket of appropriate size. So if you could drain the coolant and tip the engine forward enough, you could really shortcut the whole process. That being said, if the seal is bad, you would know (milky oil). If you are replacing the shaft, I would suggest following the manual and hauling the engine.

what year is your bike?

Just introducing myself to the forum. In the throws of acquiring a bike, most likely will be a used or new Beta (the dealer and distributor is just down the road and i currently drive a Beta Enduro machine). I caught the bug last year as a fence sitter, and had the opportunity last month to try my hand at a one-day clinic held by my regional group, which really got me interested in trying my hands at a few days next year. I am, by no means, a newby to biking in general. I have 31 years or riding on the street. I am a practicing member of the IBA, an experienced road racer (600 Supersport), a technical enduro enthusiast, and a former certified tech for one of the Japanese manufacturers. I have admittedly been away from the dirt for 25 years, so its a refreshing change for me. These skills will help my other 2 wheel endeavors without question. As i mentioned, i don't have a trials machine yet, but hopefully i will be doing a deal on a used machine within the next 2 weeks, and if that deal falls through i will have a new bike in the new year. I want to thank Michael Traves, our club kin keeper, and the awesome group of fellows who have been very supportive and encouraging to invite me into their group. I was flipping , falling and swearing at the clinic day, and nobody laughed. They just offered me their bikes without question.