Does it clear up after a couple of WFO twists of the loud handle? Maybe its just time for a fresh plug or fresh gas - both will do wonders for a two-stroke. On the other hand you might want to think about a change to a leaner pilot jet and/or main jet. A rich pilot circuit will continually add too much fuel and make the machine burble when you yank the throttle.
If you haven't yet, pop the bowl off the carb and let us know what pilot jet and main jet numbers you're running. I'm running a #27.5 pilot jet and a #145 main jet in my REV-3 250.
OBTW, change your personal settings to show where you're located.
Buy the newest machine you can afford. Find a club in your area and TEST RIDE brands. Dealer support is a consideration but not that big a deal. I would steer away from bikes that have more rather than less top end / bottom end noise (trials bikes nominally run about 80:1 pre-mix so look for a quieter machine) - I wouldn't worry too much about clutch rattle.
The fit for a taller rider is subjective; some say the GasGas has a more compact rider area while others are more 'open'. My affiliation is Beta. I have had Montesa as well; both are excellent (heavy) machines - the build quality is very good on both. I personally like the way the Beta turns and 'feels' - plush.
Ride them all - don't short-change yourself. Sherco, GasGas, Scorpa, Montesa, and Beta ALL deserve a little of your time on the same section for a good comparison.
Amen to that and its about time! I have to say that from the few videos I've seen Cabestany appears sometimes sloppy or lacking commitment maybe. Kudos all the same.
Terry - congrats on the new scoot! I'm glad you're pleased with the purchase... and welcome to BETA! You're right, BETA has a very tunable suspension system, probably more than any other trials machine out there, very plush.
The manual (and you should call Ron Commo and buy an owner's manual) says on page 68...
For a more active "quicker" suspension setting , close the compression regulation knob (this is the larger "star" knob at the top of the oil cooling reservoir - I assume that turning to the right is closing but I don't know)
For a more controlled "slower" suspension setting, open compression regulation knob and close extension brake (screw C) (this screw is the very small one at the bottom of the back of the shock - again your guess is as good as mine as to which direction is 'open' and which is 'closed'
The manual goes on to list suggested spring preloads and valve settings for different rider weights - again you should probably buy a manual about $15 if I remember correctly. Call Ron or email him at the addr that SirDabsAlot supplied.
You'll find that even riding the 'harder' line, your scores will start to come down. Riding the harder line will help you learn faster because you're working your line mentally and physically to keep from dropping any points - riding the easier line you don't have to 'work' it as much to get a low score - so even though you're riding for fun you're not really progressing - might as well be pushing a stroller around the mall...
Plus, if you're driving some distance to ride club trials, what's the use of driving a long way and riding an easy line? Bear the yoke of a good challenge and give that section hell! You'll feel better about the whole experience.
Not anymore - I used to live in Laguna Niguel and worked in the Irvine Spectrum area near El Toro Marine Base - nice view of PCH and the ocean from the apartment, though. Sure miss the weather and the scenery
sirdabsalot - based on your location I've plotted you riding on the HOLLYWOOD sign in the LA area?!... are you riding from Mulholland down, or from the valley up...?
Andy - you might try editor@trialscomp.com for Shan Moore. Shan always does a brilliant job with each month's newspaper - I would like to know more about his trials accomplishments as I've found that he was a multi-year winner of my club's President's Cup trial. From forum discussions with Craig it seems that Shan was (still is) a very high caliber trials rider with many victories and lots of history.
Special tools? - yes, you will need a flywheel puller - get one from your dealer, or contact BETA USA with your credit card in hand - they'll get one to you in short order.
And you will need a tool to keep the crank from turning while you tighten the flywheel puller. I use a strap wrench from Klein tools but others will work. I like this type because the strap won't mar the flywheel. I use the S6H - it has enough strap to go around the flywheel. You'll need a strap wrench to tighten the flywheel back on (40 something lb-ft if I remember correctly - ask Commo to be sure).
Once the flywheel is off FIND THE WOODRUFF key (little crescent-shaped piece of metal) . It will probably still be in its seat on the crankshaft. Make sure it stays there - take it out and put a little dab of grease in the keyway and re-insert the key, that way it will be less likely to fall out.
With the flywheel off you will see three screws that hold the stator plate in place - they are equally spaced around the stator plate. The stator plate itself has slots in it where the screws are to allow timing adjustment. Loosen the screws (you don't have to take them out) and you can adjust the stator clockwise (retard timing - less ping - softer) or counterclockwise (advance timing - more pinging - snappier throttle response).
There is a timing hole in the flywheel itself where you can insert a small metal rod (coat hanger, etc.) and it has a matching hole in the stator plate. If I understand it correctly, you would loosen the stator plate, temporarily re-install the flywheel w/o bolting it on - slide the rod through the flywheel and into the timing hole on the stator plate, and use a dial indicator in the spark plug hole to set it at .044 BTDC. I don't remember the numbers exactly - call Commo.
The guy I talked to at BETA USA said that if the stator plate is set such that the screws are near the middle of the slots - you are just about right on. Since I don't have a dial indicator, that's what I did and it really helped the pinging. My bike still pings but nothing like before.
With the #30 pilot jet, stator plate in the middle, and a 145 main jet (remember my bike is a 250, not a 270) the machine pings only a little under certain conditions.
I haven't used Mobil 1 synthetic but I'm very interested in your results. The previous owner of my bike ran ATF which I think as caused the fibre plates to swell. So now the clutch ALWAYS has some drag on it - you have to 'milk' the clutch to get some of the 'stiction' out of the plates before you try to put it in gear.
I have rebuilt the clutch master cylinder and am about to install all new steel AND fibre plates to get a clutch that will release completely.
What do you mean when you say that the clutch runs smoother?...
Was it water only, or water and sand? Either way I would be most worried about the crank main bearings - they are only lubricated by the oil in your pre-mix. I might mix up a half gallon of some really rich pre-mix and run it easily for a while.
Then save up the money to have the bearings replaced.
Kinell - I like your idea! I'm going to try to 'tweak' the header pipe a little bit to see if things line up better first, and failing that, your idea is next on the list - I like it, I like it a lot!
OBTW, I did crash my brains out a couple of times this last weekend while practicing - that might have something to do with the failure - and I MAY have picked it up by the lower end of the muffler but I don't really remember too well...
I'm also at a loss to explain the footpeg-shaped imprint on the back of lower thigh... jeez, I gotta stop hoisting pints during practice...
Short of buying an '04 Rev3 with the additional mount on the mid-muffler - does anyone else have trouble with the rubber isolator shearing off or breaking? This is starting to get expensive... at $4.50 per.
Maybe I should loosen the exhaust at the cylinder, tighten up the mid-muffler mount and THEN tighten the exhaust flange at the cylinder... I'm guessing I have too much mis-alignment as is.
Thanks for that Ron - I love to have that kind of background info! I always order parts directly from Commo - he has my CC # on file and I can place an order on Monday and have the parts by Thursday.
I think the GasGas dealers aren't required to 'buy' their inventory where BETA requires the dealer to purchase their inventory up front - just something I heard, not sure if it is true, but it could help explain the 'popularity' of the brand.
Following Billy T's advice I have taken my '03 250 all the way up to a #40 pilot and worked my way completely back to the 'stock' 27.5. The 27.5 pilot definitely gives the machine that distinctive Beta 'pop-pop-pop' exhaust sound. I'm changing to the #30 pilot to richen it up just a tad and to soften a little pinging. (145 main, needle in the mid-position, stock cutaway).
Ron, thanks for the update! Interesting analysis re: jetting and suspension. Around here some of the Beta riders cut off the countershaft sprocket guard right at the magneto cover to purge mud better (not that we have mud that often - ever - here in N. TX - it also looks kinda cool, or dangerous).
Why do you think the Beta is gaining popularity in your area?
Terry - well if you're buying it from Danny of MotoMex I know the exact machine you are looking at - fine bike - the previous owner is a Beta loyalist and is very particular about his bikes (and all of his mechanical gear) so I think you can be sure the 250 has been well cared for. The '01 250 was traded in for Danny's '04 270 demo bike.
Terry - the 'Rev' is Beta's latest incarnation of their trials machine. The changes have been some swingarm mods, newer rear shock, mild changes to the ignition map, etc. '01 through '03 are somewhat similar in large part. The '04 has the engine 1/2" more toward the rear tire and handles even better (and lifts the front end easier).
I would say do your diligence wrt any motorcycle... top end noise? shifts through all the gears? no corrosion around master cylinders or calipers, etc., then BUY it and get out there.
I see you're in TN - have you ever called, talked to, visited the Trials Training Center? You need to establish a relationship with these fine people for a whole host of reasons.
You will soon find that getting the carb out isn't necessarily the problem... its getting it back in that takes patience.
I find it easier to completely dismount the airbox so I can get the airbox boot back over the carb - I made a small 'J' hook out of a coat hanger that I use to coax the last bit of rubber back over the carb body.
The sad part is that I usually do all of this without having the jubilee clamp in place and have to do the whole thing all over again - I getting pretty good at it now.
OBTW - Make sure the carb locator tang (on top of the throat) fits in the receiving slot on the intake boot AND make sure you push the carb ALL the way in. Then MAKE SURE all your clamps are on tightly! And then check them again.
04 Rev'3 Not Revving Cleanly
in Beta
Posted
Ron Commo is the U.S. importer...
aahhhh - they only steal the best, the buggers.