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About balga

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    Beta Evo 250

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  1. I ended up getting two 14.8v 20Ah LIPO turnigy batteries from hobbyking, connected in series. They also have a charger that can charge both at the same time in parallel. RANGE TEST: Went out last weekend, got there on saturday arvo with a full battery, afternoon ride around the camp, sunday ride all day around the property plus two of my kids doing 4 laps of 6 sections each (they ride intro) as they were sharing the bike, got home and plugged to the charger only to discover that they still had 63% charge in them. This is the true only alternative to petrol, everything else is just rubbish, IMHO. Not sure about longevity, if vibrations are going to stuff them up, or dust getting into balancing ports, but so far they have been great, can probably do a 3 day camping trip in the hills without need to recharge, which is huge.
  2. balga

    ty80 questions

    Hi everyone, I just finally got my son a ty80 that was partially restored. The bike is leaking fuel from the carby, I hope that it's just the float being stuck, does anyone know if this is a common problem? Also, both clutch and brake levers seem a bit too big and hard to pull, does anyone here knows of a suitable replacement with an adjustable screw so that would bring the whole lever closer to the bars? I'm not really after shorter levers as they still need to be long to be pulled confortably. Do you know where I could get a side stand? The chain seems VERY loose, I either need to take some links off, or put a bigger sprocket, and I'd probably go with the latter as most people seem to suggest to gear it down, but what would be a good sprocket size in your experience?
  3. Alright, here’s an update in case anyone is interested in an uncommon upgrade. The whole cost and charging process of the lipos didn’t really convince me. So I bought two 3D printed makita diy power adapters, and 4 Chinese makita compatible 6.0ah batteries with charger indicator. 10 minutes after I got the package the bike was up and running. Two batteries stay in the bike while the other two charge, even though a set of two almost gets him through an Oset Day here in Western Australia. I love this setup, it’s convenient, light, powerful and somewhat cost effective. if anything it’s even too powerful, too much discharge for the kelly controller to handle, I had to tone it down to the minimum, too much wheelspin.
  4. thanks for the help mate, unfortunately those batteries are not available in australia, not sure if they can be shipped. I have realised that I gotta take apart the system when charging, but on youtube there's plenty of people using balancing boards to parallel charge them together, I guess it's better than nothing, is this the thing you're referring to when talking about out of balance? How long do you think it would take before that to happen? We use and charge the bikes twice a week every week. did some research overnight, hope to have understood the fundamentals right and wrote down many options and my reasoning is: the kelly controller I put in is rated to work within 24-36V and 60A with 100A peak. The battery I have now are three Drypower lead acid, whose characteristics of discharge can only be inferred by the model name 12SB10C, and it's a 10Ah, SO I can suppose that if this battery discharges at 10C, feeds well the controller, hence my actual wattage is ranging between 36Vx60A = 2160W and 3600W peak - it is actually less than that as I programmed the controller to the tamest setting to reduce wheelspin. Now I would say that the overall system ought to be over 10Ah, to have same range as original and above 24v to avoid cutoff - even if I tested the controller working fine up to 18v. If I put two of https://hobbyking.com/en_us/multistar-high-capacity-16000mah-4s-12c-multi-rotor-lipo-pack-w-xt90.html in series Minimum Capacity: 16000mAh Configuration: 4S2P / 14.8V / 4Cell Constant Discharge: 12C Peak Discharge (10sec): 24C Pack Weight: 1366g I would have 6Ah additional range, 29.6V which equate to 1776W and 2960W peak at $270 plus shipping and related expenses (charger and so on). The battery pack would also stay relatively cool, as the amperage entering the controller is less than half the constant discharge of the battery, (60A vs 196A and 100A vs 384A). To counter the power loss, should that be an issue I could re-set the kelly controller to a wilder setting. Plus the original batteries weight 9.9 kg in total, against 2.8 kg for this system, so the weight factor alone should counter the power loss reasonably. The other only alternative is to get one at 14.8v and another at 22.2V, and put it series, this would bring me to 37V with the same stamina, but I'm somewhat reticent in getting different voltages as they cannot be parallel charged. But I guess that I could get two cheap chargers and be done with it. What do you think?
  5. Hi there, looking to upgrade the batteries of my son 36v 16" oset, with Kelly controller. My main goal is range, so something to last a bit longer, rather than high discharge stuff at all costs. Was thinking about four of these https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-battery-5000mah-5s-20c-lipo-pack-xt-90.html?wrh_pdp=3 , two in series and two in parallel, to both reach 36v and get more amperage, but not sure if anything will blow up. And not sure if they can all be wired to charge together, and if total discharge is too high for the system. If that's the case I could consider just two 24v batteries connected in parallel, as my primary goal is increase range. But can these kind of batteries be wired to get charged together? I know there's a ton of topics on this matter but it's not the easiest thing to read through hundreds of posts. Any ideas/suggestion?
  6. oni nou, I didn't know that, thanks. Good to see that they're the same even if they changed the cylinders. thanks everyone
  7. Hi there, seen some very cool hoses on ebay, they come in four different materials, from stainless steel to carbon. The only problem is that they say it only fits 2009 and 2010 EVOs, mine is a 2015. But, somewhere else the Jitsie brake line fits all models from 2009 to 2017, am I missing something? What changed in 2010?
  8. ok, thanks from the test that I've done it does not close the circuit in any way. I guess my doubt was that instead of being just an on/off breaker, there could have been some other component inside the button that would have shut off the bike in another way - not an expert in electrical components. If it is definitely just a on/off breaker it's just defective then
  9. Hi, just tried to connect an oset lanyard to my son 16”. I tried a petrol bike one and that was working backwards, so changed it for a Oset one. now, when I connect it it does not work at all, why is that? What I did was removing the key switch which was not needed and connected the two wires straight into the lanyard wires. shoulnt the oset lanyard close a circuit between the two wires when it’s clipped on? what am I missing? the bike is an older model equipped with Kelly controller and OEM throttle
  10. we have a 2017 12.5 and a 2010 16, they were quite stiff too. the 16 has a little allen key under the bottom end of the fork, once you disconnect that use some pliers to remove the plastic caps on top, or you can also use a wedge on the empty one. Finding a fitting replacement spring is harder than it looks, but there are a couple of ways to soften up the overall front fork: 1. Clean up the old grease from the spring and from the tube, and re grease with a new one, that helps A LOT, after that it was ok for my son to ride (he weights 15kg) 2. If that's not enough, you could machine the spring on a bench grinder and remove a 0.1mm from the outside coating, this will soften up the spring but it's not reversible. 3. Another thing you could do to improve the front, is to dramatically lower the tire pressure, but keep an eye on the valve as it will start to slide and every now and then you'll need to roll it back. (not a big deal) I did 1 and 3 and it works very good now, big improvement overall. On the 12.5 it was all so damn tight that when I tried to undo the allen key it almost felt like the bolt was breaking and I stopped immediately. Also the top plastic caps were super tight and couldn't get them out. I just greased the outside tube and lowered the tire pressure, after all the 12.5 is just a stepping stone and as soon as they need to understand how a suspension responds it will be time to upgrade to a 16 anyway. Another very good mod is at the rear suspension by getting an air suspension shock from ebay, (AU$90 circa), the measure is 125mm, and if you get the one with two air chambers you can adjust the response way better than the stock spring with no damping. Just it's very hard to get the pressure right as the chambers are small and gotta be very patient in releasing the excess air. This coupled with an untightening and greasing of the swing arm bolts gave a complete new feel to the bike.
  11. Hi, sorry to resurrect this old topic. just wanted to thank Redondo76 and all the others for the useful information. I just installed the Kelly on my son old Oset and what a difference! The diagrams and photos were super helpful and complete, thanks again
  12. balga


    Hi there, this is Max from downunder, I got my first serious motorbike last January and it's a Beta Evo 250 (in photo below). Started with trials as it was a good way to start something with my young sons (3 and 5) which ride Osets. Still struggling with the fundamentals but loving the good time we're having at the local club.
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