Franklin9000

Thanks. Mine has about 125 compression. Someone told me that's low, so i started calling around for rings. It takes two rings at like 55 dollars a piece. Then i talked to an expert who said that sounds about normal. I don't know what yours is, but the piston and rings for this aren't cheap. I've read that the wrong kind of plug can cause a knocking sound. Maybe you should try with your other plug and see if it still does it.

What did you end up doing about this? I have a similar problem.

thanks. I think I got it. I'm pretty sure my stator is bad. I'm going to do a couple more tests tomorrow. I need to see if the cdi is bad too. I'm considering rewrapping the stator myself. It doesn't look too complicated. I just need to figure out the right compound to use to seal it. I've been reading forums. Different people suggest different things.

I only understand the basics of how all the electrical components work. Wiring and the electric stuff isn't my strong point. I'm more good with mechanical problems, so maybe someone can help me diagnose this. I took off the ignition coil and tested it. I'm pretty sure it's ok from all the info I can find on how to test a coil. I'm getting like 9.6 resistance from the primary on the coil to the end of the spark plug boot. The info I've found said it should be in between 10-16k. I'm getting 5k from the boot alone. The wires coming out of my stator are: Red=primary the triggers are white and white/black brown=ground yellow goes to the other windings. I tested the different wires. The primary wire (red) to ground (brown) was .574k. the same as with red to white and red to white/black. Red to yellow is .374, and brown to yellow is .3. I believe the important one is the red to all the others which from what I've read is supposed to be 250-300. When I kick it I get 72.5v ac from the stator to the connector. Then I get .121v coming out of the cdi to the coil. From the coil to the spark plug boot I get .685v. That's all in AC. I'm not sure if I'm testing it correctly or if this is telling me that the stator or cdi is the problem. I'm guessing the stator because of the .574 reading I got, but the numbers going to and out of the cdi confuse me. I don't understand how 72.5v gets turned into .121 from the cdi and then .685 from the coil. I'm not sure if I understand the process correctly. The stator generates ac power and sends it to the cdi. The cdi takes a portion of that power and sends it to the coil. Does the cdi convert it to DC? When the coil has the power it collects it and then releases it in single charges to the spark plugs? I'd be grateful if someone can help me make sense of these readings. thanks.

I was looking at mine today. I have 4 wires that comes out of the stator and another 2 that came out of the harness. I opened up the harness to figure out what was going on. There's a black wire that goes into the harness and then right back out to create a u-shape. It connects to the plug then goes to another black. The other end goes to an individual clip. I haven't traced it yet, but it wasn't going to ground. Brown goes to ground on the stator itself. Red goes to the primary. Then there's white, yellow, and white/black. I'm not getting any strange readings from any of those wires, so I'm thinking my problem is somewhere else. I didn't have time to trim the plug wire and try it today. Hopefully I'll be able to do it tomorrow. If you want to start that thread I'll write down everything I find and contribute.

I think this is pretty accurate. I'll match it up in the morning. Either way it's very helpful. thanks. I think mine is a little different, but not by much. Just a couple of the wires are different colors. I have 6 wires coming off of my stator, but there's only 1 yellow. not 2. This diagram makes it easy to figure out where everything goes though.

I didn't trim the wire back. I'll try that in the morning. I have cleaned out the carb/jets. I just did it again today to see. I'll let you know if trimming the wire helps. thanks.

Did you ever find a wiring diagram that isn't blurry?

I'm having problems starting this thing again. After talking to you guys before I was able to get it started first or second kick every time. I mentioned before that when I first bought it I had to pull the flywheel and clean the metal contact points that are at the end of each winding because the previous owner had let water get under the cover and it created some rust. After I cleaned the rust off it ran fine. For a while now after every few rides I had problems starting it. I'd have to pull the flywheel and clean those areas and then it would start up. After I cleaned it the first time there was a bit of pot marks from where the rust was. Now I can't get it to start at all. I got new plugs and tested them up against the side of the engine. I'm getting spark, but it seems a little irregular. I tested the stator and the electricity going to and coming out of the cdi box. I think it's ok, but I don't know what numbers I'm looking for because the manual doesn't say, and the only manual I can find is all blurry in the picture of wiring diagram. I also opened up and cleaned out the carb and checked the reeds. When I pull the plug after trying to start it it's moist every time, but not soaking wet. I can't figure out what can be the problem other than maybe the tiny bit of pot marking on the contact points of the stator is causing weak or irregular spark. I'm wondering if anyone has any ideas, can tell me how to properly test the stator/wiring, or if anyone has a manual that will tell me how or at least a wiring diagram that isn't blurry. Thanks.

I'm having a similar problem. The only manual I can find is all blurry. It also doesn't say how to test the stator like most manuals do. Your problem might not be the stator though. These things are kind of a pain in the ass to start. Someone on here told me to push it forward 3 or 4 times and quickly hit the brake so a bit of gas goes into the engine and then kick it really really hard. Someone else told me to lean it on it's side for a couple of seconds before starting it to get gas to go in the engine. You remove the 1 big nut, and you need a flywheel puller. I forget the size off the top of my head but I want to say it's a size 30. I couldn't undo those two phillips head screws, but they only hold the weight onto the flywheel anyway. You would still need to remove the main nut to get access to the stator. The problem I'm having is the previous owner got water under the stator cover, so all the contact points at the top of each winding got rusty. I had to clean it off. Now they are a little potmarked. It was still working fine, but once in a while I'd have to open it back up and clean those areas. Now I'm getting spark, but it still won't start, so I'm thinking the spark isn't strong enough or it's not consistent. If I were you I would just test how much spark you're getting at the plug and before the cdi to see if it's an actual electrical problem or just you getting used to kick starting it. Have you gotten it started at all? If you come across an unblurry wiring diagram please share it with me. Good luck.

Do you put the flame on the outside of the pipe, or do you just keep blowing the flame into the pipe? What did you do with the actual silencer? Thanks

If I have questions about suspension do I have to make another post?

Ya. The top compresses into the bottom. I'll check that guy out. thanks

Do they have more, or was it a 1 time thing like ebay?

Jim didn't seem to want to get rid of me. He answered a few questions. He was explaining that the rings and piston don't wear out like an mx bike and usually the only thing that will mess up the engine is sucking in dirt from dirty water or dropping it to where it revs really high. We also talked about how the starting problem could be because I've been running regular gas. I found a set of rings for 55 dollars plus shipping. After reading what you said I'm thinking about getting them. If I don't get them now maybe I'll get them soon. When I was testing the compression I was getting in between 125-137. Maybe I'll test the compression again and then decide. I really appreciate you explaining things to me. I'm always riding and working on things on my own, so it's nice to hear other people's thoughts. I broke my front disc guard today. Started looking for another. Can't believe how expensive they are for a piece of plastic. I'm going to look at mine later and see if I can just get a generic one to work. On the plus side I think I got my double blip down.

I talked to jim at trials parts usa. He's the guy that makes all the videos for working on trials bikes. He said 125 compression is normal for a trials bike. I think I'm just going to leave the rings. what was your compression after changing the rings?

Ya. I saw that, but that's crazy expensive for a set of rings. I would just be angry at myself for getting ripped off. Beta responded to me and said that they have them, but I have to go through one of their dealers close to me. I already emailed them, but haven't gotten a response. I guess I'll have to call.

Thanks for that. I'm finding a hard place that sells them, but I emailed several beta dealers. Hopefully they'll get back to me today. I told them that if they don't have them to please let me know who would. There's also a place here in the states that specializes in trials parts. You have to call and talk to them though, so I'll try that tomorrow too. I needed to get another front fender for my gasgas anyway. Thanks again.

I tested the compression and was getting in between 125 and 138. I took off the head to look at the cylinder. It had a couple of very light scars. Nothing I'm really worried about. Where can I find rings or a piston and rings for this bike? I measure the cylinder and came up with 71.9mm. I know I need 72.5mm rings. Some rings you can't use on some pistons. So I'm thinking I should just get a piston and rings kit. Can I just put in a 2t namura 72.5mm piston kit in it like this one? https://www.ebay.com/itm/Namura-020-Over-Bore-Piston-Kit-Polaris-250-2-Stroke-ATVs-72-5mm/352542217677?hash=item52152755cd:g:AJUAAOSw~odcEFVd:rk:29:pf:0

I've been setting it next to a quad so I can put my right foot on the quad and then put all my weight into my left to start it. It's just awkward because it's on the left and once you get to tdc if you put just a little weight on it it goes past tdc to a point where you can't kick it. So once you go one click past it basically locks up to where all you'll do is hurt your foot. My yz250 takes a lot of force to start, but once it's at tdc you can rest your foot on it without it going past that point. Once I'm at that point I usually jump off the ground with my other foot and put everything into the kicker. Then it starts right up. This beta is just different, and I'm getting used to it. I think I figured it out with help from everyone here. That rocking the bike and hitting the brake seemed to help. I think my fuel flow problem was also making it difficult at first. I'll check the compression and see what I get. That's a funny story. Some people are just too proud to admit they don't know what they're doing. If you always act like you know everything it's really difficult to learn something new. I'm pretty confident I know how to kick start things, but I knew something was wrong when it took 20 kicks before I could start it. Glad I figured out the trick. Hope that guy didn't mess up the spindle for the shifter...

That's true, but the engine still looks brand new. All the paint is good on it, and there's barely any scratches. I don't think this bike was used a lot. If it was I don't think it was used heavily. I'll test the compression on it and see what it's at. Any idea what the compression should be on these engines?

I tried moving it forward and hitting the brakes 3 times before starting it and then kicking it really hard. I was able to get it to start the 2nd kick. Thanks for the advice. I've been trying to mess with the air screw. It doesn't seem to do much. It only wants to die when you put it all the way in. but from 1/2-2 1/2 there isn't a noticeable difference. Usually I can hear a big difference each half turn. The cold might have something to do with it. I know the circuit and jets are all clean. maybe it's sucking air from around the boot. I'll test it with some starter fluid. I don't really like the gearing on this bike. Third gear doesn't have enough range, and then fourth gear is too high. It makes trying to do things like slow wheelies difficult. Maybe I just have to get used to it. On my little gasgas 160 I did most things in third. It's all snowy here. I'm trying to ride around in the snow, and sliding all over the place. Much better than sitting inside waiting for it to melt though.

I'm pretty sure the carb is set up properly. I did have a problem with fuel flow. I pulled the petcock, but it was clean. The inline fuel filter was old and slowing down the flow, so I replaced it. I cleaned out the carb really well making sure the jets and circuits were clear. The way I've always checked float height is by turning it upside down and seeing if it's level with the carb body. Maybe it's different here because it's mounted at an angle, but I haven't had any of the other symptoms such as fuel coming out of the overflow, or the plug being wet. What symptoms were you having to know your bearings were on their way out? I'll try this today. I didn't get a chance to start it yesterday. I was busy working on some other vehicles. I'm pretty sure my kicking method is good though. I'm used to starting my old yz250 by jumping up and putting all my weight into the kicker. It is a little awkward because it's on the left side though. I don't know what you mean by the air screen. Please explain. And I think the choke is working. At first I was concerned it wasn't, but that's when I was having a fuel flow problem. After I cleaned out the carb and fixed the flow it seemed to work. Ya. I always make sure to turn the fuel off when I stop riding. It's possible I messed it up the first time though. I wasn't sure which way was off, res, and on until I took the petcock apart. I know it's been off since then though. Thanks for all your replies. You guys are awesome. I always appreciate new ideas and advice. I'll try some of these things today and let you know what happens.

I'll try that tomorrow. It's very different from starting my other bikes. First off its on the left side, but also it hits a point where if you try to kick it the only thing you do is hurt your foot. I have to get it right at tdc by slowly pushing it down all the way and letting it back up. Then gently push it down until you feel it hit a certain point. All of my other bikes are much more forgiving. When you say he raised himself off the ground do you mean he used his off leg to jump in the air and then he transferred all of his weight to his left? He kept a little pressure on the kicker to keep it in the right spot right? Thanks.

Hi. New to this site, but I've read forums here a bunch of times. Looking for any ideas on why my bike is so hard to start, and suggestions on how to fix the problem. I just bought a 2000 beta rev3 250 last week. When i went to get it the guy was working on it. He said he went to start out before i got there, but it wouldn't start. I looked it over and figured out what the problem was and offered him less money. Water had gotten under the stator cover and rusted things. I cleaned it all up and that fixed no spark problem. The hydraulic clutch wasn't working engaging all the way. I fixed that. Then it was back firing. The next day ( today) it kept dying. I figured out it was a mixture of a fuel flow problem and gunk in the carb. Fixed those. My problem now is that it's very difficult to start. I have to kick it 15 or 20 times. Once it's running it runs well without any problems. When it's warm it will start up first try. When i go to start it in the morning i have to keep kicking it until I'm ready to kick the bike to pieces if wasn't so tired. I read that stator problems can cause this. I don't think that's the case because it runs well. I also read that these flood easily. When I've checked the plug while trying to kick it the plug isn't wet and is very clean with just a little golden brown on it. I'm going to check that the plug is the right one for this bike since it's the one that came with it. The guy put in a new plug while i was there. I asked the guy if he had the same problem. He said yes. He said it's cold natured and it took him 15-20 kicks. There has to be a reason for this though. I'd like to find it and fix it. I love that my little gasgas starts up first kick every time. And suggestions, ideas, and advice is appreciated. Thanks.