MatteoOssa300

https://www.sixrace.it/it/manuali/96497-manuale-officina-e-software-kscan-ossa-tr300.html

I've just post this 2 times, is too difficult click a link and download all the documents and software that seem to need CIA and FBI approval to be publish? All in one single place? https://www.sixrace.it/en/manuals/96497-kscan-workshop-and-software-manual-ossa-tr300.html

https://www.sixrace.it/it/manuali/96497-manuale-officina-e-software-kscan-ossa-tr300.html

You can ASK, you can't pretend. Or you need to find yourself what are you searching. If you are not able (too complex for your brain), you can ask help of someone, and not pretend. And above all do not insult. Insulting people is synonymous with extreme ignorance and rudeness, which I must not be present in a forum where you ask for assistance because you are too little intelligent to find a solution by yourself. BTW here anyone can find an updated collage of software, manual, maps, cable, easy start system and book. https://www.sixrace.it/it/manuali/96497-manuale-officina-e-software-kscan-ossa-tr300.html

My 300 is not a factory but is very aggressive too. Personally i've removed the fast throttle like you. Another modification i need to make asap is increase the throttle spring rate. Its too easy to change throttle angle during riding.

This is rude, he wrote me in the chat insulting me because I didn't reply within 24 hours by sending him the software. he is a poor, rude Italian, don't pay attention, we are not all like that;)

I've add you to the share folder okapal@outlook.com Good luck! On Windows 10 there is no problem on software from my side. But I'm not able to have it work reading ECU serial and also I'm not able to have the ECU remap software work. Both are not capable to read ECU information! All the to other function work great .

Tomorrow I will create a mega account a share a public link for everyone. There is nothing to worry about share a software of a failed company .. Al this secret is absurd. ;) Thanks

I've shared the folder with the 2 email above ;)

Sostituire il liquido elimina il problema dell'ebollizione ma non delle temperature. basta utilizzare glicolene puro non diluito, nella mia ho messo liquido puro in fusti, non può proprio più bollire ma scalda lo stesso un sacco ^^

Hi to all, I'm back after some month to report what I've done. After many test I've arranged one step up DC DC converter and arranged a complete test in different configuration with an Ossa fan. The converter can power up the fan from 12.5v to 16v for more than 2 our with no problem for over heat or protection. But before mount on the bike I've made the last test > check the fan voltage on the bike connector, and check the voltage direct from the regulator main line. Expected 12v on fan connector and about 15 volt on main regulator line.... But thi is exactly opposed. The fan is just operated 14.5 v from the ECU "12v line",and the regulator otherwise only output 12v!!!! So this mean that the ECU has itself and high power DC DC stepup converter. Fan and fuel pump was powered by a stepped up line. What I've found online suppose that the regulator give a +15v (or more) line to the ECU that only regulate and lover it, but is the opposite. So has no more sense apply for a step up circuit to boost 14.5 to 15.5 o 16v the fan. Speed is increased but not Soo much and go too over fan specifics can drastically lower the fan motor life. So waiting the summer to know if I really need this, i've add 3 spaced on the radiator cap, change the tube with silicon one and for now (in winter) I've not boiling problem.if summer create problems I finally try the stepup converter to 16/16.5 volt. In the same time I'm working on some radiator side wings... Sorry for English and text I'm on phone ;)

This is the sensor. Powered up from the rear / front light cable.

i've add a nuts under the spring of the cap. I've not tested the spring preload added, but this can be done with more nuts. In this weekend will check liquid level to see if there is some improvement. I've also installed a temperature sensore under the spark that light up an indicator on the handlebars from green to red when the head temperature goes over 90°. i've seent that under high load ramp ossa cylinder head go frequently over 90° but its enough wait 30 second in idle to have it back to normale temperature. So i think to tune it up and increase the allert treashold from 90°C to 100°C.

Next week I will post my complete setup . Many user send to me file and different version, I found also many guide, cable and setup. I've arranged all together in a folder with right name and subfolder division and classification, also info on how to install on Windows 7, ttl converter ecc. 90% of the information was not mine, simply grab togheter from many user (thanks a lot) and put all in a consultable folder. Let me some day next week after test to share it. Thanks , I think that software and information for a not supported bike MUST be public to every one need it !

There is many ground to frame point of contact. Think only to spark plugs , it's a ground to chassis point

Il mocool è già diluito, ho usato refrigerante puro, se ne cade una goccia non evapora nemmeno dopo 1 mese, va lavata via con l'acqua . L'unica alternativa che già volevo provare è quella di spessorare un pochino la molla, ma non farà moltissima differenza ho paura, comunque ci proviamo ! Dovrebbe essere glicolene puro, sarà sui 190° la temperatura di ebolizzione! The mocool is already diluted, I have used pure refrigerant, if one drops a drop does not evaporate even after 1 month, it must be washed away with water. The only alternative I already wanted to try is to thicken the spring a little, but it will not make much difference I'm afraid, however we try! It should be pure glycolene, it will be on the 190 ° the boil temperature!

Il problema non è la ventola che gira sempre, è la temperatura che sale troppo anche a ventola sempre accesa. In sostanza devo migliorare il raffreddamento ma credo di essere sulla giusta strada. Anche perchè o si mette un radiatore maggiorato oppure si aumenta il flusso d'aria, il resto sono solo modifiche poco influenti (tipo cambiare il liquido ecc). Una cosa che vorrei provare è usare un radiatore con tappo a pressione maggiore e/o chiuso con valvola di sicurezza come sulle moto da gara, il fatto che la moto sputi fuori liquido sicuramente NON aiuta la dissipazione avendone già molto poco! The problem is not the fan that always runs, it's the temperature that rises too much even when the fan is always on. Basically I have to improve the cooling but I think I'm on the right track. Also because either you put a larger radiator or you increase the air flow, the rest are only minor changes (like changing the liquid, etc.). One thing I would like to try is using a radiator with a higher pressure cap and / or closed with a safety valve like on race bikes, the fact that the bike sputum out of liquid certainly does not help the dissipation having already very little!

I'm testing (finally) the DC-DC setup. I've buy another sample from ebay (cheaper one) and it function. If it will fail in next our i think i will buy a strong CMOS and try a simple replace from the chinese one that is used in the circuit. Maybe there is no difference to tune in the circuit and all work great with also affidability. I've make some test on the FAN, but what today i miss is the RIGHT voltage read from FAN when under load on the bike (its 12? its 12.5? its 13?) so i need to check this weekend. What i've done for now: Connect the FAN and the DC-DC to a standard bike litio battery to avoid fake result due to power supply not adeguate. Charge the battery (it deliver 13.5V with nothing attached). The fan connected direct to the battery load about 3.3A @ 13.1V Now The fan connected to the DC: Input volgate is 12.1-12.3 (it depend on the battery charge left). On the output side i can read this value: @13.5V 4,1A @14V 4.85A @15V 5.6A @14.5V 4.9A @15V 5.25A @15.5V 5.8A There is a fluctuation that i can suppose come from the poor DC-DC , maybe at small input voltage variaton the efficiency drop, but what is interested is that the fan at @14.5V is very very faster than at 12.5V. For a power drain of about +50% (3.3 vs 4.9 > +1.6A). Now i need t check the bike fan operative voltage, because if it is 12V i thinki that run the fan to 13.5 V is enough to better cooling the radiator! In this scenario only a + 0.8A is enough. What need to be tested is if the bike has the ability to power up +1.6A trought the ECU 12V line and if this does not affect other parts. Maybe is more safe to power it up from the RJ (RED) +12V regulator line instead than from the AZ-RJ +12V REALAY (ECU) Line. What i can suppose is that +2A must not be a problem, the fuel pump, also the fan and other parts vary a lot their load based on temperature, pressure, and working condition so i think there will no problem to get more 2A from the stator (also there is no light installed on the bike that in the street version was powered up). I think also that the best way i will choose is to mantein the relay power on the fan, and add the DC-DC boost powered by the regulator line, so i can "boost" the fan simply powering the dc-dc converter, or let it run in the standard way when connected trough the relay. For more attention i think to install a simple DIODE on the standard relay > fan so the DC-DC current cant go back trought the ECU

Ciao, la ventola è nuova, cambiata come scritto sopra e funziona a meraviglia, si spegne solo se lascio la moto ferma altrimenti gira sempre

I, first of all, a new FAN is 5 times less loudable than an used one. I've replaced the mine that make a terrible noise, now i've serviced it and i think it can be used for other 4 years. Unmount the fan, remove the rubber cover and spray inside a lot of concatc-brake cleaner. Waith some minutes and put the motor side bottom to allow the cleaner goes out. Repeat 3-4 times. Next leave the fan ON at a vary low voltage (about 5v) for about 15 minutes apply regular spry inside (dont care if it come out). Clean with air compressed and spray a lubrifican like wd-40 . refit the rubber cap Now for the cooling trouble i've choose 2 way: 1) install a 1.8 bar radiator cap 2) use only 100% pure coolant liquide (dont boil) 3) install jitsie silicon tube with double protective stocking to avoid expansion For the fan i'm in trouble to find a DC-DC stepup converter usable. i've buy 3 different parts from ebay and amazon and all fails. All 3 claim to power 10A but are not able to power up the fan right, one result in a low voltage instead hig one. Other 2 simply fail when powered. Its not easy to find a good DC-DC converter. i've measured the fan and it consume about 4A on 12.5V , And power it for 10 mimutes at 15.5v with no problem (the air flow is much more!!!) . Also the datasheet of the fan report the test result on 14V so i'm sure that fan can work GREAT on 16V. If im not able to find a good Dc-DC stepup converter i need to create one from zero, but today are about 10 year that i not print a PCB board, so i need some time or arrange it in a "cable free" way.

Hi, remove this parts why will increase cooling performance? they dont stop air flow, i dont think is a good idea because it protect filter, fan, ecc parts ;). I will try on the "side" plastic, i think i've better possibility to take some advantage. This weekend i will measure some voltage over the VR cable, but i think is 12V because it power up instrumentation ;)! Thanks i'll back with more info on weekend

Hi, i think there is a mistake: Flywheel AC its rectified and regulated inside the regulator, not in the ecu. THE RJ output of the regulator is shared between the light connector, condensator, and go in the ECU, so i think this is the "poorest" regulated +12V that was used for light (not sensible to voltage differences so much) and connected to the condensator to power it up and rectify some pulse ecc. Also taking a look on electrical diagram seem that the VR line that go out from the ECU is shared between FAN REALYS ALLERT LIGHT INSTRUMENTS POWER FUEL PUMP So i think this is a more "rectified and regulated" power line, but i'm not sure is +15V because is shared from FAN and instrumentations. For the usage info, the overheat come when use for a "long" time > than 50% gas (example 10 minutes of 4th gear 50% gas to climb a mid elevation). FAN NEVER stop to run when bike is over-heated. To have it stop run need to power off bike (or maybe waith more and more times in idle). I'm not shure for yourthe last question: Radiator has 2 simple lateral "plastic parts" with 2 small "wings" that does nothing to increase air flow, and does nothing to decrease it (i think), They are quite useless, purely aesthetic in my opinion. I need to get more detail on over-volt the fan , or maybe increase the "wings" so they can catch some air when ride to "high" speed

Thanks konrad, i think that increase fan voltage about 1-2 V has a minimum effect on fan life (that is about 4-5 years of normal operation so its not an expensive problem). If i remember right (from your manual) the fuel pump get a +15V from some where (direct stator wiring?), do you think its possible to use this voltage instead create a DC-DC converter? Also for the fan i'll probabily install a manual switch to override the sensor so i can control it and avoid 100% working time.

Anyone has some suggestions to improve cooling ? Every time I'll. Limb about 200mt at 50/60% gas I can found the first 2 cm of the radiator empty due to water go out from the radiators cap. ECU can be programmed to start fan at 70° instead than 80° for example? On heavy use when fan start is too late to prevent over heat of the coolant (I think). Fan speed can be increased using some step up converter that boost up the voltage of 1/2 v? If it is powered by 12 v can be connected to a different line , for example the one that supplies the voltage to the water pump that is higher ? Any idea or example to force more air go thought the radiator ?

Point an ir thermometer on the radiator aluminum, you will see about 200° C after 10 minutes it's over the Piston head ?