Tom_H123

It’s very lightly scratched on the inside of the flywheel, is this a good thing? Cheers

Pictures of the flywheel: I think it looks okay but then again I have an untrained eye when it comes to this stuff, there’s a slight bit of damage on the taper and on one of the raised parts inside the flywheel

UPDATE: tried moving the stator plate to different position, back fires each time, not got a clue what to do now, Might take it to local mechanic.

Actually I do know why, it’s because the previous owner was a cowboy and cut down a COPPER penny... everyone knows copper is a malleable metal and won’t last 2 minutes.

It seemed to locate properly yes, I’m taking the bike to a local engineer who’s sons ride professionally as he’s only a mile away and also a friend of my step fathers I was wondering if it was sticking out high enough... I haven’t got a clue, what sort of things cause a key to shear?

I haven’t moved the stator plate from where it was previously but I will try this anyway, I’m losing hope fairly quickly, everything else that the engine needs to run is there but it’s just not firing up, been tinkering for a couple of days trying to resolve the issue ?

My woodruff key sheared a couple weeks back and I put a fresh one in a couple days ago, Tried to start it and it wasn’t having any of it, checked fuel supply and spark and they were both fine... cleaned the carb just in case. It very occasionally backfires when kicking it over. I can’t think what it is. I’m not sure what I’m looking for when it comes to the stator (good or bad) but I presume it’s okay as I have nice strong blue spark. I’ve got some pics so you can tell me if there’s anything wrong, cheers

Can anyone see anything wrong here? I don’t know what I’m looking for really

Take flywheel cover off and get the flywheel nut off, you’ll have to stop the engine from spinning round if you’re using a spanner, if you have access to an impact driver then you can just bang it on and hold the flywheel still if it turns at all. You’ll need a special tool to get the flywheel off though.

I was riding and it just backfired, cut out and wouldn’t fire up again but still had a spark and backfired every few kicks. Will try this later, thank you

Hi, my bike won’t start after replacing the woodruff key due it previously shearing, I’m not 100% sure if it’s sticking out enough to slot into the flywheel snuggly, I have a strong spark and fuel supply is fine, cleaned the carb as well just to make sure. Occasionally get a back fire as well. what would be the next step to take? I’m thinking CDI may have gone at the same time the woodruff key went but not entirely sure and would be massively coincindental... all help is appreciated. Thanks will upload a pic of woodruff key tomorrow for you all to see.

I will get the flywheel off as soon as I can, and no I haven’t got a CDI that I can borrow off another bike sadly

Had a ride the other day and the exhaust went pop/bang and then cut out and wouldn’t start again... every few kicks it makes a pop/bang, I have checked the spark and it’s fine.... also checked to see if flywheel was spinning freely and it wasn’t... will I need to get the flywheel off to check the woodruff key? Also spoke to my local trials bike shop and they said it could possibly be the CDI that has given up... how could I test to see if the CDI is the problem? Any other ideas?

Just checked to see if it was spinning freely on the end of the crank... however I did stop the engine from turning over and tried to turn it with the flywheel nut off and it wasn’t budging i was struggling to get the flywheel off or will I need to get it off to make sure?

Checked spark plug... tiny bit of carbon buildup so removed it still didn’t start, checked the fly wheel to see if it was spinning freely and it wasn’t... any other ideas?

Went for a quick ride this morning on my bike, 10 minutes in the bike made a loud pop/bang sound and then cut out and wouldn’t start again... I tried kicking and kicking and occasionally made another pop noise Crome the exhaust, any pointers as to what it could be? Any help is appreciated cheers

Do I have to have the “leonelli” rectifier or can I get away with one that’s easier to get hold of?

Been having many over heating issues with my bike... I bought it not so long ago at a blind auction so was expecting there to be some issues however I didn’t expect the whole cooling system to have next to none of the required electrics so I hot wired the fan up to the what I believe to be the AC power supply coming straight from the stator (correct me if I’m wrong)... the fan barely moves even at higher revs... I checked to see if the fan was working by connecting to a car battery and it works... not sure if it’s spinning fast enough though, any other way to test this? Will the fan ever work properly if there’s no rectifier? Is it worth getting a thermo switch as well or just have it on permanently? There’s a picture below of the electrics I have left... Any help is appreciated!

What could the issue be? Piston and rings needs replacing? Crank seal? Any other ideas? Cheers

So after being away for a week I can back on Sunday and cleaned the carb and air filter, put it back together and it took a while to start after kicking it repeatedly, eventually it fired up and idled on choke nicely but still wouldnt run without it, then it wouldn’t fire up again so I left it to have a think, came back to it this evening to see if it would start, it wouldn’t so I checked the spark plug, didn’t get a spark from it at all but also noticed there was a bit of oil on the Spark plug, what possible reasons are there for oil on a spark plug, saw something to do with gaskets etc??? Cheers

Thank you, will have a look after work and let you know!

Got this TXT 249 on Saturday, not sure of year... I am new to trials bikes... bought it blind at an online auction as a learner bike and a bit of a project... not had a proper look into the issue yet but was just wondering if anyone had any suggestions or pointers as to what it could be... any help/advice would be appreciated. Cheers