jaylael

Since I talked with you all last my over riding focus has been on the assembly and torture testing of a fantastic new (to me) modern trials bike, via the purchase of an engineless 03 Sherco 80. First thing possible I carefully assembled my new ride, using the 03 Sherco 80 chassis and the '00 250 engine, front forks and front wheel. The smaller 33 mm forks are more light duty and should serve quite well on the Hodaka. Since the last post, I have ridden the new bike in one event and so far it is working very well. The next thing ahead of me is to get back to work on the Sherdaka, but for now the poor thing is resting in bits on garage floor. More to come...

Go Patrick! He reminds me of the young Bernie Schreiber. I think it's the intensity. What a terriffic photograph. Thanks Cope

Yer a right mixer lad. Since I use a dial up connection it would seem that's the reason I wouldn't know. Seems to do all I ask of it in normal speed.

Ed: I'm figuring on test rides for all at Hodaka Days. You can be first. Hey, everybody! This one of the guys who I was on about earlier.

Reminds me of a good story. A good friend of mine who has worked in bike shops for many years, fielded a telephone call from a customer asking for advice on how to find top dead center for adjusting the valves. My friend explained that "You need to insert a screwdriver into the spark plug hole and turn the engine over until the screwdriver is pushed out as far as it will go", thus locating tdc. He never mentioned anything about the compression stroke, which may have been helpful. Ten minutes later he gets a phone call back from the guy, asking, "Once you put the screwdriver in the spark plug hole and kick the engine over, how do you get the screwdriver out?"

You guys have given me alot to digest. First off, Hello Michael. Great to have you on board TC. I'm sure you recognize your photo of the red bike w. alloy tank, which I pinched. I call it type 1. It was built in Y2k, and was shown at the Goldendale W/R. No longer own it or Type 2. Life goes on. JSE, wouldn't happen to be Jon Stoodley Enterprises? The Gas Gas Guru? I could be barking up the wrong tree on that one. I am great at embarrassing myself on the internet. Zippy I need to get better ecucated about these squish bands. I think I need to get more into fiddling with that. What I DO know something about in this regard is the compression tests I have done with a gage for comparison sake. Also I have had an expert machinist join forces with me who I regard as a genius, Mr. Ron Liddle. He was a so/cal tuner and learned a few secrets from some of the best tuners in that area in the mid to late 1970's. He knows his stuff and has built some incredible machines including the super hot rod Combat Wombat which I hope to unveil this spring. Anyway, Ron has made me one very special high comp head to play with which features the hemi combustion chamber. I guess I need to measure the squish with dabs of modeling clay then measure their thickness after bolting on the head is this correct? The relative tests with the compression gage rated this head higher than the stock Combat Wombat head by about 30 psi. That's some serious comp. No clue what the squish band is on this or any other. Too busy running around building all this cool stuff. In time I will get there. I put the ultra high comp head on the race bike. Figure it would be too high for trials. That thing is even a little hard to kick for a 125. Might try that head on the Sherdaka before I'm done. These Hodakas seem to run smoother at low revs with the lower comp head. I have even tried a 1/8" spacer with the model 94 head and I still have it in a box. I decided that was going in the wrong direction because it caused the bike to become less responsive and generally anemic. Anyway these are my thoughts at the moment. Gotta' go. Jay

Now that's the kind of information you can't get just anywhere. Sweet! I will look forward to trying it. The newest bike will be a good testbed for these kinds of tuning options. I took a quick shot of my other current project. This is a reasonable facsimile of the kind of Hodakas people used to ride when I was a kid. This is based on an Ace 100 B frame, forks, with a Wombat swingarm, an early type reare hub which is 3 lbs lighter than the six bolt hub. The pending exhaust will use the chrome tool can for a glass pack. I will be using 1 1/2" header pipe.

Hodakas were invented here! It's almost as if it were an American made dirt bike because the guys who sorted out the designs are all friends of mine nowadays, though these guys were also my childhood heroes as well. As if that isn't enough reason, the Hodakas are cool and fun and well loved almost by everyone who comes in contact with them. I was riding a 1964 Hodaka 90/100 trials special built by Whitey "Hacksaw" Hartman beginning in 1972 at age 13. Should have kept riding the thing but switched to a great big cow of an OSSA in 1974. Took several years to get good at riding the bugger, but then I moved on to making my fame and fortubne as a "pro" motocross rider. If I knew then what I know now, I would have stuck with the Hodaka. Somehow I hadn't the vision of the perfect Hodaka trials bike as a 16 year old kid, and really wanted to try and emulate Mick Andrews and Joe Guglielmelli. In hindsight I realize just how fantastic they (Hodakas) really are and potentially could be.

I agree. Good advice for sure. The engine is jacked back as far as it can go.

Thanks for the positive feedback. It is appreciated. I have built and ridden three similar vintage machines previously which have given me a fair bit of good test data as far as engine performance. As time goes on I intend to play around with different pipe and carb configurations some more. The Sherdaka is going to get a dellorto 26mm carb for example. You are right about smaller diameter header pipe improving low speed resonse. (I think that's what you said) as the reality of prior tests have bourne this out as fact. I refer to the difference between response at near tickover, and "low end" which is really an innaccurate term, very hard to quantify. I'm not sure I even know what that means in reality. I have tested several different cyl. heads, and cylinders over time and definitely feel as if I am getting the best combinations narrowed down. I have been very pleased with the iron model 94 wombat cyl and the amal mk 2 carb with the old Gem reed valve, and an O3 cylinder head with no head gasket and anaerobic sealer used in place of a head gasket, applied sparingly. The silver paint thing did not work well for me, developing a combustion leak over time. (Yes the surfaces were flat lapped and torqued to 18 ft lbs.) With this combination the orange and green "Tree-Frog" runs really good and the compromise is just about right. It has schnurle loop scavenging accomplished by ports hand cut by me in the cyl running up from the intake passages to the transfer port height so they all pop open at the same time. The Green bike with the black frame is Tree-Frog type 2. It uses an aluminum cyl and head directly off an O3 Wombat with no significant mods. This also runs just amazingly well as it is. This is the same basic engine which will be used in the Type 4 or "Sherdaka". In case anyone is not familiar with them I shall post photos of these prior efforts. I can allready hear Andy thinking, "Dear God, No!" Anyway I had a brain fart ewhen I ordered inch and three quarter exhaust tube which was technically the wrong size. Once it was bought and paid for I decided to go ahead and use it. You will note there has been in prior efforts, a two inch, two 1 1/2" and now two header pipes made from 1 3/4" tube. The smaller diameter ones seem to be snappier off the bottom and really work nice at tickover roll on. Seem as if bigger carb and bigger pipe both give it more top end at the expense of this sweet chugging torque at slightly off idle. The bigger ones will cause a bog or flame out on snap throttle under load. Any road I guess I've rambled on enough for now.

Yes. The original engine has a cast lug for the swingarm bolt to pass through. At one point I had envisioned just building a mount/adapter to theHodaka engine which did the same thing, but Idecided I could achieve more strength and rigidity with the mount welded solid to the frame like a Hodaka. I suppose this thing is strong enough the front downtube arrangement could be taken off without any ill effects. Tempting, but then it weighs almost nothing, and adds that extra assurance the frame is not going to bend upward. Glenn, The 1990 Beta Zero is a ground breaking bike for sure. I liked my 1991 Zero very much back in 1994. Bob Ginder is a really neat guy and his products and service are first rate, but... I am involved with the development, manufacture and sale of Hodaka related trials parts in my own right. Our flywheel weights are available at www.hodaka-parts.com

Glenn: Send me your cousins contact info. I'm a fool for old trials bikes, but a bit on the poor side these days. Rhode island world round was in 1975. He rode in it? I'd love to see that picture! How'd he do? I rode the one in 1977 at Port Huron Michigan, and attended the one in 1976 at Goldbar, washington. I was so impressed with Martin Lampkin. He stood out as a solid rider and a standup guy. Still is I'm certain. He was so personable and friendly. Acted as though we were old friends from the start. And man he could ride. I hope to use a shorter inlet tract between the carb and reed, and reed to cyl. should be short as possible. The long intake is supposed to increase top end. Should be going forward with the job this weekend. Took time out to go ride in a trials at the weekend last sunday. Managed to squeak past our lad Ishy which is a rare and wonderful thing for me. As far as the auto repair business I find that really good techs who truly understand how things work are hard to find. As automobile technology becomes increasingly complex, the challenges we face become greater every year. The guys I work with benefit from my insight regularly. I try to "teach a man to fish" rather than "give a man a fish" but they just want the fish, over and over again. I never refuse, but it hurts my heart to see it.

I have been using a Toyota Previa 1991, for a trials bike hauler about six months on. The rear door opening height is just low enough to require you use a tie down to compress to forks. The grab handles for human passengers are placed well enough to use for securing a bike, however I hope to install some better tie down loops as time goes on. Another concern is poking out one of the windows with a handlebar end or lever. My solution for that is to use a "ladder mitt". These are designed to prevent a ladder from scratching someones house paint or siding when leaning a ladder against a wall, and are available at hardware stores. I also have had better luck turning the front wheel towards the outside. (left for the left bike) and positioning the handlebar end at the support post between the side windows. I've enclosed a photo of my Previa with a bike inside just for grins.

I routed the exhaust that way to get longer header pipe, which ought to improve the low end. Otherwise it would be allot shorter. I have no data to back it up, but the old story goes that more header pipe volume improves low end. Truth be told I think it just looks more trialsy, and it helps to fill in some of the visual voids in the front. Yes the cardboard tank should be all the rage next season. The front fender just touches the subframe on full compression. I have allready pushed the forks down in the clamps to flush, and ground the front corners off the alloy subframe and it still just touches the fender. I have decided to lower the front fender about 1/2 inch closer to the front tire, which is just enough to get it to stop contacting alltogether. Since the engine is just plain longer than the original one, this is a minor problem which is not easy to resolve any other way.

Here are the latest photos as the project slowly inches forward.

Yeah, Zip, it's a Y2k. Need to build carb manifold, header pipe, skid plate etc. Also need to rest. This bit of progress came at a price to my constitution. Moving forward in fits and starts but darn good progress. I think this thing will work incredibly good for a Hodaka. Yep, it's a busted skid plate mount allright. Good tip on the extra plate. I may do that one too. Thinking about ways to isolate the skid plate on rubber grommets or something way more advanced than just bolting it on. Rubber pad creates difficulty removing and installing the side cases. I plan on using a piece of 5/16" alloy plate, sheared to size and bent on a press brake. Rubber mounts at the corners would provide a cushion to the tremendous shocks imposed upon the skid plate by typical thrasher trials riders like myself. Unlike the factory stars we country folk could do with a bit of shock absorbtion at the skid plate. Rubber bushed mounting is something I want to do. The mental scratch pad is back in action. Jay

As Benny Hill once said, "Well, here 'tis"!

No problem Howard. Glad we have come to see this sensibly as adults, and avoided the usual degradation that sometimes comes with the internet medium. Seems without voice inflection, an intended joke can become miconstrued to be hurtful, or a constructive critisism can be mistaken for just trash talking or whatever. Sometimes it's hard to communicate effectively on the internet. Still with it's limitations, it is a wonderful thing that bike nuts from around the globe can sit down and discuss points of a project and it is overall very positive for everyone. That's really a neat thing. So I am super psyched about the Hodaka project! Will post more pics first chance I get. The rear engine mopunt is mostly done! It looks tough as can be. This bike is gonna' be so sweet!! Signing off.

Steve: There's a guy in our vintage motocross club, known a soup, which is short for super Stevie. (Steve Clark senior) He is a motocross rider from way back, about mid forties I guess. Apparently known for wrecking other folks mx bikes when he borrows them. He doesn't seem to have any running bikes of his own but incredibly always gets a super pristine hopped up show quality bike to race from someone or another. He was whipping the heck out of me at Chehalis in the fall race on a borrowed $10.000.00 CZ 125 when the pipe came off and bounced across the track in front of me while we were doing like 40 mph! The little CZ lost most of it's horsepower after that and I was easily past him within two corners. It wasn't easy but I missed the exhaust pipe by a few inches. As far as the Canadian twelve step program, do they have one for Hodaka obsessed people? I really think I'm hopeless on that account. Things have been out of hand for some time! Have a great weekend ole' buddy. Howard I have no doubt you have the knowldge to see things I don't, but right or wrong I have to trust my own intincts and move forward. How crappy would it be to abandon the project just because it was met with one tiny speck of negativity. I have done so before when it was clear to me that I was headed down the wrong path on a bike build, but I still believe in this one and feel confident that it will be just bitchen. (Really good) One thing you should understand about me is that I visualize these things on a mental notepad of sorts, but cannot draw a decent sketch of the plan to save my life! I have tried to make drawings and they are just pitiful. It's like a learning definciency and a lack of that particular talent in any way shape or form with regard to drawing. Therefore I physically assemble the bike from a metal image which I work out over time. I love beer, but cannot drink more than one or two without getting sick with a cracking migraine headache. I basically drink very little. I go to bed incredibly early and wake up incredibly early to go to an independent auto repair shop, where I have worked since 1984. (mostly) I work on alot of different makes and models, a diverse cross section of vehicles from MB, BMW, SAAB, down to Chevy, Toyota, Ford etc. I get paid flat rate which means if you can't fix the car, you don't get paid. Logistically imagine the odds I am against to make a living in this way. My work mates there are a great bunch of guys who all try as hard as they can to do well at this each day. Among them our service writer is a well known trials guy around the USA, Kary Krahel. He has ridden the scottish six days, and the 1986 USA world round, so it's really a pretty fun bunch at work. That said there are some difficult times in that cars will find a way to make your life hell at times. I have to do repeat work when a trans won't shift right, maybe even taking the unit back out as much as four times before having it work properly. Granted these are extreme cases, but I tell you, that will test your character! Fundamentally my point is that this mindset is unique and requires devotion, sincerity, honesty, and an unparalelled work ethic. This is hard to translate somehow, but I think that is kinda' what Zippy is trying to say, partly. OK I gotta' go

Will do Zippy. I have visions of something strong which incorporates both the swingarm bolt and the frame to grab the back of the engine. The undeniably ugly "head steadies" will be trimmed to look more petite, but really are critical to help hold the steering head down via the front subframe. (alloy flexi widget in laymans terms) Dave you are welcome to ride it when it is ready. I once let Mike "Gonzo" Borseth ride my Type 2 Hodaka in a trial at Spokane. See photo of Mike on the Type 2 enclosed. He crashed so many times I lost count. He bent the chain guide so bad the chain came off for the first time in the life of the bike. As a result of this test session all the Tree Frogs will have more beefy chain guides. If only I had tested the machine it would never have gotten this type of improvemnet, so even the less skilled riders can make valuable contributions to the end result. Full speed ahead on the Hodaka Leap Frog (type 4)

Thanks for the votes of confidence guys. HondaTLR that is a 125 wombat engine, with a host of mods to it. Brian I'm so glad you made it through the tornadoes in your area this week. That's so scary for all a y'all. Zippy, thanks for shoring up my crumbling confidence, alot! I still think it will be just fine. I vow to forge ahead and keep TC readers abreast of significant developments. I went out to shop this morning before work and darned if it doesn't look perfectly ok still.

Right, sorry Howard. I am probably being overly dramatic. It's just that this is really an intensely important thing for me. I submit to your superior training and your goodwill to point out the flaw in the "emperor's new clothes" so let's have it then. How the blank is it wrong? I see it working, but the notion is if it busts the Hodaka case lugs off the front or something well then that's how I'll learn. I just do stuff. Don't have a college dergree, but I work my fool butt off every day, so that's got to count for something. If the alloy front flexi widget is your concern then how come they have that on Cota 315 or Beta Rev 3 or owt just the same? The alloy brace arrangement on those bikes is not overly different than the one I have built. Um... I guess to my eye the weak point is the spars about at the end of my 1/8 thick mild steel plate gussets I welded to support the steering head and ridify the spars vertically. I guess the that's what you are saying then is the spars will kink straight up because the alloy front subframe cannot prevent it from going skyward? Why not? Surely if the rear of the engine is secured properly the front of the engine would hold the front of the spars down adequately. Please enlighten me.

Once the rear engine mount is complete, it will be. (a stressed member) Plus even if this bike turns out to be a total failure it wouldn't be the first time. I just build it and try to break it. Can't afford real trials bikes, so please have a heart. I'm sharing my joy in building something with my own two hands. How is that not a positive thing even if it does break. (which it probably won't)

Good idea Brian! See enclosed photo of the Northern Leopard Frog which sports just the right color scheme for the bike and might make a cool logo as well. Not too much of a stretch to call it a "Leap Frog" since I intend to leap the bike as much as possible.

It was a glimpse of my nearly absent sense of humor. Even humourless automatons like me can attempt to make a joke sometimes.