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sparkieb

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Posts posted by sparkieb
 
 
  1. Has anyone ever had any made, mine are de-laminating and to be honest are knackered. Keep looking for good 2nd hand ones but none popping up so considering getting some made but the cost (looks like £350/400) is seriously putting me off. Cheers Mark

  2. Yes i have one front fork with corrosion ☹ have considered getting some yokes made but will price them up first. Its been a strange dismantle as some parts have never been apart but as its a 76 and has so little wear or damage its amazing, will enjoy the rebuild process once i get a bit more organised and save up a bit.  Cheers Mark

  3. The rust was a little worrying but its light and there was quite a coating of oil with it, there was water in the gearbox and clutch so yes i have quite a rebuild on my hands (first montesa too) the marks on the crank make me think it has been apart but many many years ago as it truly was difficult to dismantle (the barrel studs were quite a quest - and the base gasket was an original) but theres virtually no bore wear and the piston is like new(std too) So possibly it was either rebuilt years ago or its never been apart and the marks are a mystery. Searching for fork yokes too as one is very badly corroded which takes me back to the water issue, but wheel rims/frame etc have no corrosion. Cheers Mark

  4. My conrod had sideways movement of over 3mm, is this normal. Clymer manual says .4 to .5 of a mm but the book does stop at 75 and i have  76 mrr. Is it spaced into position by little end ?  I did run/ride it a short distance before dismantle and it ran smooth and quiet so unsure whether it need replacing or not. Just seems very odd to have such movement but nothing seems amiss apart from this 3mm sideways movement. Has anyone any ideas at to whats amiss. Engine didnt seem to have recently if ever been apart, bore+piston in excellent condition just wear on one gear, barrel nuts were very difficult to remove giving me the impression it had not been apart. Hope someone has an answer for me. Cheers Mark

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  5. Have possibly found a clymer manual that covers up to 75, i have a 1976 (51M3194) and before i buy it as its not cheap, does anyone know if theres plenty of cross-over from 75 to 76 so that crank/gearbox etc specs are useable. Cheers Mark

  6. My 1976 348 now currently dismantled, anyone with a manual please give me a shout, i need settings/torques esp crank. Dont want to replace rod and bearings if its in spec. Piston/bore didnt seem worn when i stripped it but piston would twist around 1 to 2 mm. Cheers Mark

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  7. On 2/18/2009 at 3:33 AM, spokerider said:

    I took the cyl head off the engine today. There is some dusty rust / crud in the 7mm cyl nut recesses, so there's penetrating oil soaking things loose right now. The barrel will come off in a few days...... I bought a long 7mm alllen socket that'll work fine for the job once I grind the ball end off of the business end of it.

    I see that a previous owner has had the engine rebuilt once before, as there is a .025mm oversize piston in place. I can see the cross-hatch pattern in the cyl bore. The cross hatch is more visible on the sides of the bore and less obvious in the fore / aft cyl wall. No scoring or really shiney areas either. No carbon build up, just some thin oliy soot. Top ring looks fine from the inspection so far......

    I can't make the piston move fore / aft in the cyl with pressure applied by two fingers on the piston crown, as in piston slap, but I CAN rotate the piston as if trying to spin it in the bore, with the same pressure from two finger tips. This holds true with the piston at all stroke positions that I tried. It moves about 1mm-1.5mm as a guess. Perhaps there's wear on the small end needle bearing? Big end bearing?? Is this movement abnormal?

    Thanks.

    My piston rotates like this around 1 to 2 mm , is this normal. I cant find any tolerance specifications for the crank/rod/piston

  8. just starting to dismantle my 348 (1976) and im unable to find a manual, were English ones ever available ? need one gear for gearbox too but that's only the beginning, bike is now in a million parts in my garage and its going to get expensive I can tell. Anyone in west Yorkshire with lots of knowledge would be good too.  cheers Mark

 
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