airfruit

But 4T exhaust sound travels "better" than 2T's. It seems quieter when both types of bikes are sitting beside you, but once they head into the bushes, the 2T exhaust sound disappears faster than 4T's. Try revving both bikes in the woods the same far-ish distance away (can't see them far haha). I can always hear the 4T over the 2T. It all has to do with the characteristic of the exhaust sound. It's not just a matter of simple loud or quiet.

Sorry if I spelled Gaerne wrong, I never seem to get it right haha. Ok! Novogar boots... do they run bigger or smaller compare to the Gaerne? I have a pair of balance and they need to be replaced... I have small feet and have found the balance 41 to be the perfect size. Would I be wearing the same size with a pair of Novogar? or would I have to go for a bigger or smaller size like 40 or 42. I know the Alpinestar's 42 is like a 41 for the Gaerne but not sure about Novogar. Thanks a bunch!!!

I'm curious roughly how long before a piston and ring replacement is necessary on a 125. I have a 2008 beta rev3 125 and been riding it for 10 months now. The bike usually gets the crap rev'ed out of it. I'm a full size "adult". I know some dirt bikes has insanely short piston/ring replacement cycle so...? Thanks!!!

Yeah, my 08's case corroded pretty bad at the same place too but I had it replaced under warranty.

Listen for any abnormal sound coming from the water pump. If the gear comes off you can usually hear a ticking noise and if you put your hand on the water pump cover you can feel the vibration too... that's about it? or your bike overheating and losing power haha

Just like I mentioned before and as M&S did, my problem was due to the back of the propeller wearing down Just be very careful when riding it!!! Did you check the back of the impeller!?!? I put mine back the first time without knowing the cause. It was fine for a while but due to my love to hop, it popped out real quick again. If you hear any slight abnormal ticking or grinding noise... you should check it again. If it does pop out again, time to get a new impeller. But did you also see if your magnesium case is okay? is there corrosion behind the impeller or just the surface is rough?

well, the gear is held on by the shaft. It might have moved after you pull out the shaft but its suppose to be right behind the seal+bearing

To be basic, yeah, its a whitish plastic. What's up? Don't tell me you found some white plastic bits in your engine oil...

Yeah, it happened to me... except it didn't actually fall off, it just started making crazy plastic gear grinding sound after it slipped half way out. Good thing you didn't ride the bike around too much or else it would have overheated and maybe locked up. Look at the back of the impeller? does it look worn? what happened to me was that there were some corrosion happening behind the impeller (the magnesium case) and the rough surface thinned the impeller down. That was enough for the pin to slide out from the gear on the other side. If you open it up and see how it's put together you'll see what I mean! It is hard to describe. I tried to put a spacer in there at first but that made it worse. My left case was replaced under warranty though...

It's ok! I'm a little confused about the whole clutch actuation with a hydraulic system. What are some signs for clutch wear? bigger friction zone? friction zone moving out? If it is anything like hydraulic brakes it should auto fill fluid if there isn't enough and the lever position should not change. And why would the fiction zone become bigger? You don't get squishier brakes when your pads wear? I worked as a bicycle mechanic for sometime... know them brakes but the clutch mechanics is a little confusing for me! Are the above just signs for a cable clutch? I'm too busy to think about it so someone feel like spoon feeding me with info? hehe

Errr... that looks like your water pump gear pin!!! Are you sure your water pump is still working? Maybe there's another pin in the gear box that looks like that but from what I know its the water pump gear pin! Have you heard any grinding sound lately? I would drain the coolant and open up the water pump cover. Pull on the impeller to see if it comes out or start the bike with the cover off for just a second to see if the impeller spins.

It would be so funny.................. if my brother bent his lever out slightly without telling me... HAHAHA. Good thing I got some new levers for comparison!

Sorry if I am a little confused here... the stud type screw inline with the master cylinder, does screwing it in move the friction zone out? from my experience, if you have long fingers and want your clutch to disengage earlier when pulling the clutch lever in or engage later when you are letting the clutch out, you screw the stud screw towards the master cylinder. Using relative motion, by holding the stud in place and turning it (righty tighty) the lever will move out. Still hold the stud in place, and you turn it left, the lever comes towards the bar (looking from the lever side towards the bike). By having the stud extended more towards the master cylinder means it will actuate the cylinder earlier, meaning disengaging the clutch earlier in the lever travel. Sorry if I sound mean haha, I've been doing my engineering project for too long!!! Almost exam time... anywho Thanks anyways!

The symptoms are... I have the clutch adjustment screw on the lever backed all the way out, which let the piston come all the way back out... so that's not an issue... hmmm, I bled the system forwards and backwards... didn't see any bubbles... With the adjustment backed all the way out, his clutch engages almost the end of the lever throw, so all the way out. I basically can't back it out any further to bring the friction point back in a bit towards the bar! I am clueless! could there be something lose somewhere? need some spacers somewhere? ARGGGHHH haha I talked to some of the local guys here and they said they've only seen the problem the other way which you guys describes! that due to a crash the spring's weakened and the piston won't come back out all the way; thus, people screw the adjustment screw in... but my problem is totally the other way

I'm going to be replacing some clutch plates! The clutch has gone far out enough that I don't have any lever adjustment to bring it back in (04 rev 3). I'm just wondering if I should be doing friction plates and steel plates together or just friction plates... I am not exactly sure how to tell if the steel plates need to be replaced too? don't remember the original thickness and don't know how far they can wear! Is there some sort of dirty rules of thumb? like how many sets of friction plates per set of steel plates? This is the first time the bike is getting its clutch done. My brother bought it brand new and has about 2 yrs of riding on it... he was away for a while and is just getting back into it again! Me being the home mech guy... I have to work on his bike haha! I'm just wondering because I'm ordering some parts and I need to figure out what to order! Thanks all!