Dean K

Does anyone have any ideas or fixes I might want to check out?

So the new OEM seals and shaft started to weep after about 50 hours after I replaced them. It wasn't leaking that bad so I kept riding but keeping an eye on the coolant level (just a slight drip so maybe a few ounces lost) now after 131 hours I took it apart to see how bad the shaft was and it was worse than the first one that I replaced. I put in a new shaft, and left the old seals in, started the engine and warmed it up and they are not leaking. Going the see if they hold up with just replacing the shaft. I believe the shaft needs to be made from a better material or I need to try those non OEM seals that are softer on the contact area. Anyone know if I could have the shafts built up and reground or sleeved somehow? Replacing the shaft at 50hrs. is not cool.

Let us know if it can be done and not block off the weep hole. Might be a way to extend the life of the shaft. I can't recall where the weep hole was in relationship to the seals, but I will check when I take mine apart again also.

That shaft still looks very good. That is with using non OEM seals right. Mine just started to leak again (OEM seals), maybe 50 hours. I haven't taken it apart yet to see if the shaft is worn or the seals are faulty, kinda bummed it happened so quick. I will update you on what I find. Thanks for your update.

I have a 2017 300 4t and the fan seems to want to stay on all the time once the engine is warmed up even when the outside temps are cool. I just checked the water pump impeller and it was good. The fan pulls a good amount of air through and back towards the engine. Is there any new news since the last post in 2015 on what could be wrong or what I could try to do to get the fan to cycle on and off? Or is this just been found to be normal?

I read here that a slow running fan might be caused by low voltage. Just got me to thinking why my fan almost runs all the time since the bike was new. Any thoughts on the fan not cycling. It will not be on when I first start it when it is cold, but will turn on when it warms up and not turn off. I have a temp gun that I want to check the temps on the radiator and around the engine to see if it is running to hot. The bike does not seem to be running overly hot. How often does the fan cycle on some of your bikes? I have a 2017 300 4t.

Sorry for the late reply, I have been away on a trip. Yeah, I thought that too much grease might clog the weep hole and makes it useless as a warning that a seal is failing. I have some silicone seal grease that was recommended for my Gas Gas water pump seal that i'm going to try, I will use it sparingly and see how it works, I don't want to block the weep hole. I have been using the Hondaline coolant on all of my watercooled bikes, it makes sense to me. It will be interesting to see your shaft wear when you take it apart next. Thanks, Dean

Hi Nige, Yes I saw the shop manual, that is where I heard about the locking bolt. I had a chance to knock the shaft loose today, quick tap and it was free. I looked at the shaft again while it was out and found that the outer seal area was worn more that I could see by just peeking into the seal when it was on the bike and the inner seal area n the shaft was fine . I have ordered a new shaft and a couple of factory seals for now. I may just replace the outer since the inner showed no wear. I'm thinking the inner one probably lasts longer because it gets lubed from the engine oil. I will look for the service note that talks about the hours of service and grease to use. I'm wondering if you fill the space between the two seals with grease, if that will kinda plug the weep hole to where you won't know when a seal has gone bad? What is your thought? I am very interested to hear what you find on the seal wear in January. We also might use Hondaline coolant as it does not contain any silicates, Honda is very picky about what coolant to use on there bikes and they state that other coolants will wear out the seals on their waterpumps. I'm not sure if the coolant Beta recommends is silicate free or not. Food for thought. Thanks for time helping me with this, Dean

Yeah after I asked you I was explaining to a friend of mine the rotation of the shaft and figured that I had said the wrong direction since the shaft rotates counter clockwise, that standard rotation would be self tightening. But it is good to hear it from someone who has done it before. Did you use torque wrench (ft. pounds) to set the shaft back on and if so how did you stop the engine from turning. I have heard there is a spot for a bolt to hold the flywheel, but I really don't want to open up the sidecase cover to do that. Wow, your shaft has some pretty good wear on it. Twice my Gas Gas shaft looked like yours. My Beta has a very fine groove just starting to appear. I might be able to still use it and just put on a new outer seal since it seams like this is going to be a re occuring problem and you have said the shafts are very expensive. I'm thinking that with the two seal set up and a weep hole it will always give me fair warning as to when the outer seal is starting to go but the inner seal will keep coolant from going into the motor unlike my Gas Gas the coolant goes directly into the engine when it starts to leak. I know replacing everything while it is open makes sense, but it is so easy to get to it might be more cost effective for me. If anyone can chime in on my thoughts, please do. I forgot to think that I live in the USA so I guess it would be up to me to find seals that are softer if I decide to go that route. Have you heard of a bigger impeller for this bike that helps it cool better and maybe lasts longer. I have heard some things, but can't find any info about it for the 4t. It might just be for the 2t only?? Thank you again for all your help, Dean

Nige thanks so much for the reply. I'm going to make a tool like you showed me. To loosen the shaft do I turn it clockwise. It seems the way the veins are and the rotation it would be that way to self tighten when running? What seals did you find that are softer? I agree with you that they should something different because of wear. I had the same issue with my Gas Gas as there seals had a hard lip that would wear out the shaft very quickly. Maybe they should use a harder shaft material.

I just came home from riding to find coolant dripping from right under the water pump, I have read there is a weep hole there that will drip if the outer water pump shaft seal in going bad. I see no evidence of water in the motor oil so I assume the inner water pump seal is still sealing. After looking up what parts I need I can only find one part number, but there are two seals. 1. Does anyone know if you order the one number and it comes as a kit with two seals? Or do I order two of that part number and they are the exact same seals? 2. I see there is a special water pump shaft removal tool. Do I need it or can I just dig the old seals out carefully? 3. If I need and use the tool does the gear drive and bearings stay in place when I remove the shaft and is it reverse thread or standard to loosen it? I have about 300 hours on the motor, is this about average time for a seal failure? I will check the water pump shaft for any wear also when I get into it. Thanks in advance for your help, Dean