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About markbxr400

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  • Bike
    2016 Beta EVO 300 4T

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  • Location
    Lower Alabama, USA

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  1. I run this in both my Montesa's. Only because I have to. Darned expensive ($50/qt) and takes a coupe of weeks to get it here in the US. Much cheaper options are available for the Beta, eg,, Lineaway's suggestion. Also, should be no problem going 30 hours between changes.
  2. Anyone have any vendors and part numbers for SS bearing for the 4RT and 300RR?
  3. I've had had the Beta EVO 300 4T and now have both a Montesa COTA 4RT260 and a Montesa COTA 300RR. All are great bikes. Plenty of power, and weight has not been an issue for me (but I'm relatively new to trials and limited to about 3' obstacles). The Beta definitely feels lighter than both of the Montesa's to me. I love the smooth power delivery and the easy starting of the 4 strokes. Oil changes on the Beta are a snap - drain the oil, pull/clean screens, pull/replace filter (has it's own cover), refill oil. Montesa is a little more work, but not really much. Removing the skid plate and left side cover add a little work, but it's not difficult.
  4. I dunno. I just drove 2300 miles round trip from the Alabama gulf coast to ride a 10 section x 4 loop event in Michigan. Up on Saturday, event Sunday, back on Monday. Did get to ride it and visit with my son and daughter-in-law who live up there and visit with some friends, so I thought it was worth the drive.
  5. I've only had 4T's (Beta EVO 300 4T, Montesa 4RT260 and Montesa 300RR). As others have said, heavier than the 2T's, but very smooth and controllable on power delivery. If I were good enough to launch up 6' rocks, I'd be on a 2-stroke. But for the 3' obstacles I can handle, the 4T's have been awesome.
  6. markbxr400

    4rt oil change

    Biggest differences between my trials bike and road bike are: 1. My road bike holds a gallon of oil and my trials bike holds half of a quart 2. My road bike has an oil filter nearly the size of a car oil filter and my trials bike has one the size of large thimble. My diesel 3/4 ton pickup has two behemoth oil filters and holds 3 gallons of oil, but I go 10,000 miles between changes.
  7. markbxr400

    4rt oil change

    I also installed hour meters on every bike, lawnmower, tractor, generator, etc that I own. I like to know where I'm at on all of this. Regarding the filters, New 2017 4RT 260 purchased in January - 3.7 hours: When I drained the engine oil from the 260, it was pretty clear amber. I let it run over my fingers and noticed very little dark streaks but some fine metal flecks. When I pulled the oil filter, I also noticed metal flecks and noticed darker coloration. The bottom screen also had some metal flecks. When I drained the tranny oil, it was also mostly a clear amber color, but I noticed some black streaking (very fine particles). New 2017 300RR purchased in May - 1.22 hours: Surprisingly, the engine oil was much darker than I found on the 260. I think the dealer ran the bike more than he claimed. It wasn't black, but definitely dirtier than the 260. About the same amount of metal flecks as the 260 when I let it run over my fingers. I wasn't able to pull the oil filter or screen due to stripping the head on one of the rear slid plate bolts, and my not wanting to try to get the side cover off with the skid plate in tact. The tranny oil looked about the same as the 260 - clear amber with some black streaking. I will definitely be changing the oil and filter again when I get back from Michigan and my replacement skid plate bolts arrive, as I want to get a baseline on that filter. My plan going forward, now after initial break-in: Change the engine oil every 15 hours Change the oil filters every 30 hours (but still will do the 300RR in the next couple of weeks) Change the tranny oil every 30 hours Clean the air filters as needed, probably every couple of trials, depending on dust. To me, oil changes, air filter cleaning and valve adjustments are the most critical maintenance things to get long life out of these motors. While I don't send samples off for analysis as some do, my taking the time to look at them periodically gives me a good indication of whether I should expect any looming problems. Here's a pic of the 260 oil filter that was pulled at 3.6 hours:
  8. markbxr400

    4rt oil change

    Just did my new 17 4RT260 and new 17 300RR (well, sort of). The 260 went like clockwork, case came off easily with gasket intact, after tapping around the edges with a small dead blow hammer. While the filter was a little bit of a pain, I just kind of flattened about 1/2" of the edge of the hat with my needle nose pliers, lined it up with where it needs to rub the outside edge of the case, and it came right out. Grease was the trick on the spring for reinstall. Going in, I found if I spun the flywheel slightly to where the filter lined up with one of the longer slots on the side/round edge of the flywheel, I could press the filter down under the lip on the case, then it popped right in. On the 300RR, I managed to strip the allen head on one of the rear skidplate bolts, so that took me out of the game as far as replacing the filter. So I just changed the engine and transmission oils. Have ordered 10 of those skid plate bolts, and will drill/easy-out the stripped one at the next oil change. Used the HTX740 for the transmission and Honda Pro HP4 10W40 for the engine. Cleaned and oiled the air filters as well. Thanks for all the help on this forum. Took a little time, but was pretty straightforward.
  9. Picked up a new 300RR to go with my 4RT260 and XTrainer. Fun times up in Michigan over the past two weeks with my son and daughter-in-law.
  10. Mine's mounted on the steering head tube portion of the frame. On my EVO 4T, it's just to the right side of center. On my Cota 4RT, just to the left. Out of the way and easily seen.
  11. After a similar experience. I had the rubber boot between the carb and intake come loose (look closely, it can look like it's still connected, but it's not). It will become super lean, as I had a huge air leak. I could get it started with the choke on, but it would not stay running once the choke was off.
  12. Just received a box of parts while at TTD this weekend. Haven't swapped anything yet, but I'm pretty confident that it's the radiator cap. The coolant is definitely coming from the overflow. I double checked the coolant level at TTD, and still burped quite a bit of coolant over the 3 days, all from the vent line on the cap. I'll be riding Tuesday, is will have a chance to put he new cap on, fill the radiator again and confirm.
  13. If still a handful after regearing, a heavier flywheel like the SuperSmooth is another possible option.
  14. I cleaned up the bike today, and 1. checked the level since the last ride - it is just below the top of the fins in the radiator, 2. ran it long enough to confirm the fan kicked on, and confirmed that it is spinning the correct direction, pulling air from front to rear, 3. checked hose connections, cap, etc for any sign of leakage, and didn't observe everything. Before cleaning, it's pretty apparent that the coolant stain originates from the cap vent drain hose which is short and ends right over the top of the fan housing. It was getting dark so I haven't had a chance to ride for a period to take a better look. I have a group of riders coming by tomorrow so will have a chance to look at it further. Stu, I looked all over the pump housing and surrounding areas and couldn't see a weep hole. Where should I be looking? Also, looking at the pump housing, to appears the gasket that was sent doesn't cover the entire 4T pump outline, so I'm going to have to see if I can find the correct gasket before tearing into it. I'll follow up if I find anything further of concern. Thanks for all of your help!
  15. In addition, you could put a Super Smoot flywheel in to smooth out the snap.
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