Niro

Hi, What are my options for fork seals for 2004/5 Scorpa SY250 with the Paioli forks? Prefer something in the USA. Cheers

my TY350 has 38-10. I like how it rolls in first gear and little throttle, but they started to wear out and need to be replaced. The 35-10 setting will be faster, right?

Hi, What was the number of teeth on the front and rear sprockets out from the factory? what are you using today? Cheers

I know, but they are very rare and mostly overpriced.

Hello, is someone here has any experience in racing XC or Hare Scramble with 70's Cota 247? I really like the design and the model of the Cota 247 and I have one (1970) for trials competitions only. I'm thinking to purchase anther one for the races above (I prefer the models with the gear lever on the left side). I was wondering if the Cota is up for the task. I would like to hear you opinions.

Thanks guys. Great information. I think I will stay with one length spring, either NJB or Falcon.

Would you say that the NJB Ultimate shocks are better option because they allow the rider to adjust the shock length? Is the length is critical as the spring pre load?

Is 1.1:1 considered low leverage? Falcon shocks offered me 50lb springs. I'm around 80kg with gear. Is 50LB will be much of a difference from 40LB?

You mean 60LB? and by "low leverage" you mean light damping?

Is this price for one or pair? If for pair, it's good price.

Thank you! Valuable information. I think I will choose the lighter damping version, since I am riding only trials with the bike.

I have a follow up question in my search for new rear shocks for vintage trials competitions. What does "Damping" mean and what is the actual different in riding with "standard damping" or with "light/ super light damping"? Thanks.

Thank you guys for your inputs.

Do you have any experience with the NJB shocks?

A little background: Me- 6ft. weight 175lb with gear. Bike- 1970 Montesa Cota 247 with unknown brand of rear shocks. The shocks can be adjust, but I can't turn the adjuster. See photos. Skill level- beginner. where- riding in vintage trials competitions in woods with a lot of uphills and downhills. Goal- keep getting better and score more points. Budget- unfortunately tight. I don't want to spend more than 200GBP include shipping to USA. At first I was intrigue by the OZO "Expert" shocks. The price is 90GBP before shipping and they seems good upgrade for trial competitions. Then I start reading and found out a world full of rear shocks upgrade. Unfortunately most of them is out of reach. One that I can afford is the steel version of Falcon with 50LB spring (according to their recommendation). I would like please to read any thoughts of which shocks are preferred or maybe something I'm missing. Thanks

Thanks. actually as you mention in 2, my main problem in soft springs/front shocks while going long downhill or in a very tight turns when I use front brake. Is there any recommendation for front springs? or the common ones, like In Motions sells will do the job? About the oil, I just checked the manual and it says SAE 20/30 and I put 15. I guess I will go with the manual.

what is the best way to strengthen the front fork (Cota 247 70'): increase oil level use heavier fork oil (current is 15w) use spacers replace spring (the most expansive solution)

Thanks for sharing! validate my thoughts that it's not easy to start riding vintage trials. I'm 44 with not much experience. Also as you mention, I find that one of the main difficulties is to lift the heavy Montesa out of any trouble I entered..

Several reasons why- I'm a novice trials rider with not much experience on dirt bike riding either. I joined a local group of vintage trials bike that rides sections in the woods. I find that most of the sections are a challenge for me and also the riding between the sections can be a challenge, and I prefer to go slow. Also my bike has annoying issue of jumping into 2nd gear. I think that in this level I better drive a slower bike, gain confidence and hopefully points.. and learn to identify that the bike is on 2nd gear where it should be on 1st. This was also the advice I got from my instructor. Any how the process is reversible and I will go back again to faster gearing after gaining more practice.

Hello, Any idea what this grinding noise might be? The noise can be heard mainly while idling or rolling with throttle closed 1970 Montesa Cota 247 grinding noise

Thanks !

I appreciate all of your enlightening information! feetupfun- other than my bike feels faster to my skill level, I really like his behavior in 1st gear. I can pull the bike pretty strong and smooth from almost standing without using the clutch. I also didn't find myself yet need to switch to 2nd gear while in section. Knowing the bike pull strong and that the 1st. gear is very usable gives me confident in sections. carl and lineaway- I took trials riding lessons with highly professional and very well known rider and he told me the same, about gates being very tight this days. In my practices at his sections I never used the clutch. But I didn't ride in an event yet. My first event is coming this Sunday. After that I will probably have more knowledge on how sections are set and how I mange to rode my bike. Bottom line I think to move 1 teeth smaller in the front sprocket will be a good lesson for me and if I don't like it, I can always go back one teeth up.

Thanks! Now I understand this. So a followup question- what are the disadvantages (if any) in going down 1 teeth in the front sprocket?

So if understand correctly- in order to slower my bike further more, I can change to 9 teeth front sprocket (I prefer to stay with the rear 48T), correct?

I'm looking for the slowest gearing while bike in 1st gear and rolling.