PapaWheelie

Yeah - that's the newer case, that Jim points out has the stop in a different position than my older case, w/o the recess guide. Anyway, through trial & error I found a spot that works....

Yes, on both counts. (I would not have survived this repair w/o Jim.) In fact I let them sit bathing in oil for a few days on the bench while I pondered the situation and researched the topic. It seems that, like Nigel & I have found, that these brngs are REALLY tight right out of the box so I'm proceeding w/ the reassy w/ skepticism but it does seem like the more I move them the better they feel. Was just hoping that Nigel would reply back w/ positive vibes to keep me motivated. Edit: Oh wait, I am using the old style brngs, not the low friction versions. (I did not know the diff when I ordered)

Yeah - that's the one, but the best shot in the video was w/ the cases split, and I was having trouble believing that it should be free standing and not up against the other case half for support. Well, I tried the position that I felt would be supported (max clockwise) but then it rubbed against the K/S shaft bushing, so I rotated it back, even more CCW beyond the photo and all seems to work well now, so there I have it - Jim (and you) are right! Now I'm a believer! 😉

I've replaced the broken nylon part with the metal one, but not sure where to position it. I've watched Jim Snell vid (thanks Jim, hope your vids will live forever), but it's still not clear. Anybody here know? After watching the vid, this position looks like what Jim says, but my gut feeling is that it should rest up against the case to help support it. (slightly more clockwise that the attached pic) TIA

Hey Nigel, Tell me you were able to re-assemble and find happiness, as I am EXACTLY where you were at the beginning of Feb. My story is your story, 3 months later. - Daren

Well... thank you for the work you've put into this website so far. I can add that "I think you must perform a “SEND” for each setting you change, and definitely before leaving a page." is true - for example if you make a change to map1 w/o hitting "send" and then go to map 2, you will lose the change to map 1. Also, the "save" button is ONLY found on General tab, but you must click "save" after "sending" changes to any maps or you will lose the map settings w/ a power cycle. In addition, you can navigate between map setting pages by clicking the tab header OR by swiping left or right. I discovered how easy it is to perform errant swipes with very little screen contact which ends w/ frustrations of changing unintended maps.

Android 15 on Pixel 8A. The last three connection attempts have been successful, but I've had so many failures that I'm hesitant to claim victory yet.

Just got a 2.5 Factor-e a week or so ago and have been fighting EM Connect connectivity issues ever since. I've got 3 hrs on the bike and 3 km. 2.8 hrs on the bike has been rebooting phones, bluetooth, bike, etc. Mixed results so far, but I THINK the best fix if faced w/ failure to connect is to cycle the phone bluetooth off/on, even w/ the app remaining running. Once connected, it is wonderful to be able to manage power characteristics. I'm unable to change to speedo/odo from km to miles tho.....

Hey thanks for the photo, as I'm in the middle of removing this stuff from my new-to-me 2007 TXT250. It looks like the wiring harness (from the headlight area that passes through the frame steering head and down along the frame, past the carb on the way to the rear brake switch and speedo sensor) can be removed. Did you need to cut a larger harness (that bundles with the ignition wires)? Does any hardware hold the CDI/ignition coil in, or is it just crammed into the steering head area? Mine seems really tightly packed and after 15 years is reluctant to move. TIA

I've seen carb slides in backwards too many times. This symptom is the result. Follow BayDog's advice after checking the slide - cutaway towards the air filter.