cello

Carb keeps overflowing when it sbeen standing for a while, weeks rather then days. I,ve tapped the float bowl with a piece of wood to help free up the float if its snagged in the carb but genrally makes no difffernce. After a bit of warming up as she starts really easy , it seems to stop overflowing but I could be wrong as it could be collecting oin the bash plate area. Any tips on curing this , what is the proper float height ? I've cleaned the needle valve and it appears to be sealing ok when the carb is off for testing. I need to fit a wrist lanyard as I think all trials call for these now , do you have to butcher the electrics to fit these as I would prefer to leave the switch gear for road legal uses shoud I got pulled by mr plod. Talkin of switchgear the actual thumb switch has lost the outer button that allows you to slide the switch on /off is there a mod I could do to allow the switch to be operated ith my thumb as opposed to a little screwdriver I am currently using to slide the flush part of the movable swith that is left on the switch gear. Thanks in Advance chaps

I read that to test theamount of water in oil , heat some metal up and drop a drop of contaminated oil on it , if it fizzes lthen it needs changing , if it does not then it might only be the discolourisation you are noticing from the prevous seal failure. It should be ok on the 2,d or 3rd oil change, get the bike warm for a good 30 minutes to see if it evaporates and changes colour.

Looks like the sensor/thermostatis ok , just have to wait for the temp to build up. Another question , it appears the clutch basket fingers are grooved causing the grabbing clutch , do you know if its possible to remove the basket with only the clutch cover off or do you have to remove the clutch casing as well ? From what I can ses i think you should be able to wriggle the basket out but otherwise its a longer job to take off the header and bashplate to get to all the bolts. TIA

Got a couple more questions as the bike takes shape, the cooling fan or rather the thermostat/sensor any ideas what the resistence readings should be or how long it would need to idle for before the fan kicks in? My sensor was reading 8 MegOhm reducing to 4 MegOhm after about 10 minutes and the water hoses and rad were all hot but no fan , I know the fan works as I have shorted the sensor and it ran fine. The other issue looks like the clutch plates have swelled due to the water in the oil , any ideas what thickness a new friction plate should be and if i could take a grinder/file to them to reduce them somewhat? The bike starts but clutch drag means I cannot change gear when the engine is running so need to rectify this before I can try the Techno out anywhere apart from my back garden , TIA

Thanks seal in and looking good so far , I wonder if the seal is this way round because the garter spring in the seal is not made of stainless-steel and hence would suffer from corrosion and ultimately fail.

Thank you, so the last owner fitted the seal incorrectly - see pic

thanks for the advice both of you, I did what you said and dropped the bearings in , a sharp tap with the hammer and they seated ok with no apparent woresning of the crack. I have also applied a layer of JB Weld just to ease my mind a little and will give it a try. Can someone confirm the orientation of the waterpump seal , the one I removed had the closed side towards the water with the open side towards the oil - is this correct?

Ceack radiates onto the face the bearing presses into 😩

Thanks i will look to sort thebrake next.......that is after i have fixed the next issue! I now have noticed a hair line crack in the casing onthe inside of the case where the water pump bearings sit , not sure if tryi g to press a new bearing in would cause more damage and if i should have this welded , use jb weld or just give the new bearings a go ....any advice inmates?

Thanks for the info, the drive gear\shaft is a one piece item but I have now found a replacement although the gear is made out of plastic so hardly a upgrade I may try the old shaft cleaned up with emmery cloth and the new bearings / seal. The forks need a service , the exhaust a good decoking and the rear wheel some replacelment spokes but apart from that it would be nice to enter a trial and seee how she/I cope! Top hats appear well worn I think as they allow radial movement hence they need replacing to make the front end feel more stable on the brakes. Should the clutch pressure plate waggle side to side I wonder? I think I will have to investigate further.........

I know this has been covered many times before but I'm wondering how best to remove the bearings from the impeller shaft? Also the metal drive gear will need to be swapped to a new shaft unless they are bought as a single item , I cannot see any wear on the shaft but if I'm changing the bearings and seal it makes sense to replace the shaft does it not....... The impeller was toast when i took the pump cover off and the circlip was missing so thats either somewhere else in the engine or the previous owner failed to fit one. I,ve also noticed the water pump drive seal and bearings are easily sourced from a bearing / seal company at a 1/3 of the price from going to Beta or Trials dealership....mmmmmm Re the clutch , i,ve not had a chance to ride the bike yet but noticed the plates waggle in the basket as if there if thebasket bolts are loose, which they are not. Is this normal ? One other question on the front brake rotor which has to much play in the top hats that seat it to the hub , I asume these are worn and need replacing if they sre still available , any idea of the size in case I have to source them from somewhere else?

thanks i thought he was wrong, i am an engineer but not a mechanical one but even i could see it was a daft idea......i'm a bit concerned now at what other thngs he may have managed to do wrong to the bike mmmmmmmmmmmmmm thanks again inmate

hi peeps, ok bear with me, when i picked up my beta evo 250 the guy i bought it from did seem a bit clueless and there were several things he did not mention , al these were faults of course not any bonuses , but when he picked the bike up off the stand he put his hand underneath the silencer and lifted the bike up. to me the bike had no subframe and should have been picked up rom the back wheel as when i got the bike home i noticed that the bottom rubber mount on the silencer had broken in two. whos's right me or miss knibbs , how are you supposed to lit the back end of the evo up off a box stand TIA

Cheers yes well worth a look, thks. I really need to get out and practice but that was always the perenial issue when i rode Enduro, where tp practice. Well now i,m older I am really conscious of not wanting to be seen as a local yob (Or no*) razzing up and down my close so where to ride mmmmmmm I'm thinking of maybe a car park somewhere or a private commercial park rd just to get some time on the bike before I venture to a proper trials park. The bike is quiet enough to take to some woods but in this country its pretty difficult to not annoy someone just putt putting around in circles for 30 minutes lol

Will give that a go cheers, although the front suspension seems to be very soft compressing about 40-45% with me on board in my civilian attire, I'm about 13.5 stone so a little on the soft side. I hardened the forks up a tad and that seemed to help but I also put the tires up to 10 psi so slightly over pressure. Obviously on a concrete floor with the engine off so I'm hoping for easy 30 seconds stands when outside engine running on the dirt.