I know that Elf Htx 740 is a great oil, but officially speaking it's not the perfect one.
Quotes:
"HTX 740 is ideal for Motorbikes with dry clutches."
HTX 740 contains "FRICTIONAL MODIFIER:
Additive used to reduce the coefficient of friction on oiled parts, thus improving their mechanical
efficiency."
"Friction modifiers in automotive oils tend to provide increased frictional reduction and offset a portion of the fuel economy lost when the U.S. Government mandated a reformulated gasoline for emissions requirements. However these friction modifiers can be detrimental to proper wet clutch operation and can cause slippage and other potential performance issues..."
In reality it doesn't really make problems, but it may cause clutch slipping when the clutch plates or the springs are not 100% perfect.
This very light oil is better and makes the clutch less prone to drag problems (because it's viscosity is lower):
Let's take a Suzuki Gsx-r 1000 clutch. It works perfectly and it's easy to find neutral all the time. Many people use 10w-40 oil in their Gsx-r. Of course it's a 4T engine so the oil lubricates the engine, too. With an installed oil temperature gauge it turns out that in normal conditions the oil's temp is around 200 °F (95 °C). A 10w-40 oil at 200 °F has a viscosity of 14.6 cSt.
A trials bike crankcase oil is not heated up by the engine. Of course by the friction of the gears it still warms up to about 105 °F (40 °C). If we look at an average gear box oil, then we will find that it's viscosity at this temp is 64.3 !!!!!!!! It's a huge difference, it's like spinning the clutch in glue. Of course it's hard to find neutral and the gearbox is not working that smooth. So we are all using ATF and or Putoline Light Gear oil. And it's working somehow, because ATF Dexron III has a viscosity of 34 cSt.
But we can still make it better. We need an oil with 14.6 viscosity at 105 °F (40 °C) NOT 34. This means that we need a 0W-5 oil (or 0W-2 if it's possible). It's not that easy to find this kind of oil, because it's used only for racing, but it can be ordered from the internet.
If you really don't want to order from the internet, then any 5WT (or 2WT) fork oil has also the wanted viscosity, like Putoline Fork Oil Light (http://www.putoline.com/en/products/catalogue/segp_scooter/psusp/448/scooter/suspension-oils/fork-oil-light/) (Vis: 15) but this is not really a good idea, because we don't know what additives was added, but it helps to understand the idea behind this. You will see that those who ride 4T trials bikes have less clutch drag problems. This confirms my theory.
I've sent my '04 Rev3 Paioli shock absorber to service, and I was told that the bladder is punctured and there are no spare parts available, so it's unrepairable. It was even mentioned that because the shock is junk it's not even worth for me to pay for it's postage back to me (I live in Romania).
Here are some pics:
(It was sent to Falcon Shock Absorbers for service.)
well i spoke to lampkins. they were really helpful. they also suggested that it was possibly that stator & sent one as a warranty replacement. now after fitting, the bike fired up!!!
yeeha!!!
It's absolutely ridiciolous. When will Beta solve this whole stator problem? I can't believe that even the 2008 bikes have stator problems. Probably around 2015 they will realise that they should do something about this.
With all my bikes, I have only been able to get between 6 and 10 months out of a rear shock before it had to be serviced or replaced. I ride about 8-12 hours a week in the spring, summer and fall and around 3-4 in the snowy months.
You need to be more agressive on the "pops" of the clutch to get the splatter or zap!
Thanks for the tip.
And please if anybody sees something which could be made better or something, then let me know.
This was one of the reasons that I posted this video here. Because I'm always looking forward to perfect things and to improve my skills, and it's easier if someone else is telling me what I am doing wrong, and what are the areas which should be improved.
I'm the only trials rider in this city, so I can't ask anybody about what is his opinion about my riding. That's why I'm using the internet for help.
However the quality is worser on the dailymotion, so If you can solve the codec problem, then you will get better quality watching the downloaded movie.
my bike and all other previous bikes (sherco and a gasgas) were very difficult to change into nuteral when the engine is running. they are like this to prevent the gear selector selecting nuteral if it hits a rock. and on my bike the change between 1st and 2nd is a little sticky, i recon this is for the same reason
I have a question regarding the splatter technique. I understand that I need to drive up the rear wheel on the face of the obstacle. But, how to I give it throttle when I hit the face of the wall with my rear wheel? Check this picture out: My hands are at an angle when it's completely impossible to give it throttle. But, If I shut off the throttle, then how will the wheel drive up? Is the flywheel keeping enough momentum or what?
And also I made a super slow motion version of it. It's clearly visible that the rear wheel is not driving up at all. It just hits the face of the wall and stays there and I'm leaning forward and holding the bike on the bashplate.
Close the fuel tank valve, and keep trying reving the engine (keep blipping the throttlle) until it runs completely out of fuel. If you got a moment when the engine was reving out, then the problem is a too rich mixture. If no, then you need to search elsewhere, because the problem is not with the carb.
I agree with the previous posts. BVM is absolutely superb. They are very helpful, fast, and everything you want. I'm from Romania, and actually Italy is much closer to me (where Beta's are made) then UK, and I still order all the parts from BVM !!! That's how good they are.
(
315r gear oil
in Montesa
Posted
I know that Elf Htx 740 is a great oil, but officially speaking it's not the perfect one.
Quotes:
"HTX 740 is ideal for Motorbikes with dry clutches."
HTX 740 contains "FRICTIONAL MODIFIER:
Additive used to reduce the coefficient of friction on oiled parts, thus improving their mechanical
efficiency."
"Friction modifiers in automotive oils tend to provide increased frictional reduction and offset a portion of the fuel economy lost when the U.S. Government mandated a reformulated gasoline for emissions requirements. However these friction modifiers can be detrimental to proper wet clutch operation and can cause slippage and other potential performance issues..."
In reality it doesn't really make problems, but it may cause clutch slipping when the clutch plates or the springs are not 100% perfect.
This very light oil is better and makes the clutch less prone to drag problems (because it's viscosity is lower):
http://www.lucasoil.co.uk/store_item.php?product=10281
It's cheaper, too, and most important, it doesn't contain friction modifiers so it's compatible with wet clutch bikes.