Hi All, My 200 original footrest just snapped off my bike and just wondered if anyone new the best after market foot rests to use but without having to alter the original footing position, and where to get them ?.Cheers Russell
Hi Martin, Good to hear from you again, I might just take you up on that offer, Ive just bought a 2nd hand one from e-bay but no way of telling what its going to be like, Ill give you a bell on your mobile if I get stuck, Thanks for the offer, much appreciated!!! Russell
Guess what - It hasnt cured my problem although the bike ran slightly better, just put it all back together and tried it but still choking up, you can imagine how p#####off i am
C'Mon guys help me here, its got to be carb ??? What else could it be?
Hi All, I think it is, but is the 303 cylinder/and cylinder head the exact same as a 300 cylinder head? My 300 head has broken fins but have a great 303 head so just wanted to check!!!
Ive tried and tested everything, BUT now I think the solution has been found after having a good chat with Bill Pye and also a great guy named Clive Taylor (hope your reading this Lee) and not to mention all Lee's help, the problem I found was the expansion chamber in the front exhaust pipe and not the carb, i had my pipe carefully cut open and found that a large chunk (caked in carbon) of the honeycomb mesh in the inside had broke off and lodged itself to block the exhaust gases travelling through to the silencer.
I am having my WES silencer re-packed also and getting the front pipe back this week so it has not been tried and tested but I am sure this is the cure to my problem.
I am having the same problem with mine, and had lots of advise from Lee and tried and tested everything, BUT now I think the solution has been found after having a good chat with Bill Pye and also a great guy named Clive Taylor (hope your reading this Lee) the problem I found was the expansion chamber in the front exhaust pipe and not the carb, i had my pipe carefully cut open and found that a large chunk (caked in carbon) of the honeycomb mesh in the inside had broke off and lodged itself to block the exhaust gases travelling through to the silencer, it was fine low range but as soon as you gave it any higher range rev it would just choke up and run as if the choke was on and would want to cut out, then as soon as the revs were dropped and it cleared it would run fine bottom range.
I am having my WES silencer re-packed also and getting the front pipe back this week so it has not been tried and tested but I am sure this is the cure to my problem (and hopefully yours)
Hi All, I have a Bultaco 175cc that I bought in bits for a project, it needs tons of work, the engine is needing totally done, and lots of cosmetics, im told these are very rare, whats the story on them? Is it a worthwhile restoration job? Cheers Russell
Bill Pye was out of stock so I phoned around and got the gear lever from Bob Wright Motorcycles, you need to take a shaving off the plastic side casing as its a very tight fit (which I wasnt that happy about) but to be honest you can hardly even notice,I think it was
I had one around 1992, and loved it but to be honest didnt have it for that long as it was stolen, I just remember being able to wheelie it for fun and was really impressed with the hydraulic clutch at that time, I bought one cheap not so long ago but sold it to Bill Pye as the cost of the re-build was not worthwhile (and trust me I dont like breaking up Fantics you should see the 300 ive just bought and am about to throw lots of cash at) there was a really nice one just sold on Ebay for
I tried taking the plug out and turning the flywheel over, there was a slight tight spot but would this just be as the piston changes from top dead centre, as I checked on another of my bikes that has just been rebuilt and it had the same slight tight spot, I then stripped the clutch off and checked in there and there didnt seem to be any damage on the gear mesh and it seemed to be running true, also with the clutch off i turned the flywheel as quick as I could by hand and the slight knocking noise was coming from the top end, do you think it might just be a new piston and re-bore that is needed, or am I just putting off the inevitable? Cheers Russell
Hello All, I just bought a 300 2 days ago, needs loads of work but I will eventually get it back to its former glory to sit next to my 200 and 240 - Im not showing off honestly!!!
Seriously though they are great bikes and if anyone has any spares out there give me a shout, luckily mine came with a nice pair of the original sidepanels and original airbox. Plenty compression aswell - so far so good.
Lee -ive sent you some pictures, more to send but email keeps bouncing back saying your inbox is full, let me know what you think ?
Hi Everyone, Ive got this nice looking TY125, it has always been really hard to start, and takes awhile to get itself together, it would die on me whenever you put it next to a hill and was as if it was drawing in too much air, so changed the crank seals put it all together again and it ran better but has a really bad knocking noise (worse than the norm) and then the bike locked up, and when stripping it back I noticed the primary gear shaft nut had came loose and that had jammed the engine (luckily no damage) , it does have an aftermarket piston kit in it which are not the best so got a 2nd hand genuine head and piston to try it (Good Condition) and the bike still took ages to start but when it did, it ran good but the knocking noise was still there - any ideas?
Hi Lee,I had the stator off today and staightened the pick up and just gave it an overall check and put it back together, and ran the bike and the problem was still there,then I changed the silencer over to try that but no luck, had another look at the carb and started to get somewhere, I noticed the mixture screw was about 4.5 turns out (dont know how that happened) but when I put it to 2 turns out the bike ran a hell of alot better but was still alittle spluttery top end but no where near as bad but I could not get the bike to idle?, what is the correct setting for the mixture screw? and just so I know what is the correct notch for the needle to be on (standard carb and jets) Cheers Russell
Hi Lee, I drained the oil today and it was just under 1000cc in it, ran the bike for around 20 mins (no excessive smoking whatsover) the gearbox oil was still 1000cc so prob safe to say the crank seals are ok,
when running it the problem was still there, althogh it did seem alot better bottom end, its as soon as you are in 3rd, 4th and 5th and it just has no response and is basically spluttering along but again no excessive smoking or nasty noises, Could it maybe be electrical? I remember when puuting the flywheel back on that the pick up did not sit exactly square and I needed to put a little block of plastic behind it, just to kind of prop it up so that it would sit in line and enable it to get a spark, sounds dodgy I know but it worked perfectly like that many years ago and it wasnt until after the recent rebuild that i came across it and remembered why it was there, Cheers Russell
Ill send an email tomorrow regarding the 305 spindal,
Hi Lee, I am sure I put exactly 1000cc of oil in, ill give it a try tomorrow and see how I get on, but to be honest it isnt really that smokey, I think it is just the standard jets that are in it, ive had the bike for around 15yrs and it ran fine before the re-build with that carb, but the bike had been lying around not running for some years before the re-build,
I will let you know how i get on, Cheers Russell
PS just bought a 303 today aswell to add to the collection.
Hi Lee, Thanks for the info, I changed both O-Rings on the jet top and bottom but the problem is still there, The crank seals are brand new aswell and were done during the re-build, I had the plug out and it seems to be fouling up very quick, if i take it out and clean it the bike kind of runs as it should for a minute then just starts the "as if choke on problem" the plug is really black and wet, it has got a new aftermarket coil on it aswell, what is the correct setting for the mixture screw? is it screwed right in then 2 and half turns back out?
Hi Everyone, Just had my 200 fully rebuilt and it starts and runs perfectly until it warms up, then it is as if the choke is stuck on, on taking the choke (top part) out the carb today I noticed that there was no o-ring in there (would this be the problem?) and the bottom part of the choke in the carb bowl, the rubber o-ring was present and looked in good condition. Is there anything else it could be? Cheers Russell
Hi all, I am hoping someone can help as I am totally stuck with my front brake on my 200!!!
I feel like an idiot but I cannot get any tension on the cable at all, I have a brand new Domino lever and brand new Venhill cable and tried to put it on today but cant get it to work, (brake was dodgy before the new cable etc, it had a homemade tension adjuster on the front of the fork and the arm was facing to the front of the bike and not around the back of the fork and to the cylinder head the way it should, but this has been rectified now and everything looks the way it should) even took the wheel off and the shoes look good and the arm is working the way it should aswell, only thing I am not sure about is if the arm from the drum plate to the front fork is the correct or original one, would this make a difference? Cheers Russell
PS My forks are the ones where the tension bolt goes through the mudgaurd stay.
Hi All, Anybody have any tips on removing a clutch basket on a Montesa Cota 200? Mine has the usual Kickstart slipping!!! Any ideas where to get these parts to repair it,? Cheers Russell
Fantic 200 Foot Rests
in Fantic
Posted
Hi All, My 200 original footrest just snapped off my bike and just wondered if anyone new the best after market foot rests to use but without having to alter the original footing position, and where to get them ?.Cheers Russell