Check the rubber manifold between carb and the tube of the disc valve cover for cracks that allow the engine to suck in oil.
(This rubber part is sadly not available anymore !!!)
.......Not correct, I have a source of remanufactured carb/disc rubbers if anyone needs them.
Thanks, that's the only thing that makes sense at the moment.
........Check the crank seal against the primary drive gear. I did a rebuild for a TC member at Christmas, and it ran exactly as you describe. I reckon I had reinstalled the old crank seal by mistake. When you check the seal on the gear if theres no or very little resistance, thats where your problem is. If you didnt rebuild it....make sure that this seal is in the right way round, and they have installed the disc vale O ring.
Ignore the timing mark , the diagram was downloaded from the SWM dealer manual and also showed the settings for all the MX and enduro versions...so I tidied it up just to show the trials setting.
Designed by Emilio Carre from Milan, the bike uses a Tau motor. It was never intended to be built for Maico, but the bike made its debut at a 2 day Italian trial in 1983, with a rider who had a link to the Maico factory....hence the stickers on the bike.
Emilio had loaned the bike to Garelli for evaluation purposes as they were interested in geting into the trials market, but when they saw the photos of the bike with the Maico stickers in the Italian press, they returned it....and went the Hiro route.
Jon have another read of the article. It says "steering head angle was tweaked" and "rear shocks angled". The steering head angle change claimed was most likely due to the rear end being slightly higher.
Loooking at the photos on Jons album, I reckon that the Yellow frame is bent. If you hit the front end hard enough, the back bone would bend and the steering angle would tuck back in. There is no longer any support to the head area, as there is now a weak spot where the tubes have been chopped to clear the plug.
I have seen the same thing a few times before on both SWM's and Bultacos.
Dario Seregni, Thierry Michaud, Bernie Schreiber, Gilles Burgat, Pietro Kiciukian, Giovanni Tosco, Danilo Galeazzi, Charles Coutard sr, Bernard Cordonnier??
Q1. Unfortunatley you will have to split that motor. There are only two ways I can think that the gearbox would jam up.
First one, is the selector barrel is located by a tensioner arm.....its the bit that locates it in position every time you change gear. Its possible to build a motor with this arm wedged behind the selector barrel (I have done this enough times !!), so I guess with a big enough hit it would knock the barrel and pop the arm.
Secondly, is that the shaft would probably bend at the weakest point, this being at the point it either enters or exits the kickstart shaft...so it would be possible that its bent inside, therefore allowing the kickstart to operate as normal, but not select any gears.
So, split the motor, I have plenty of decent used gear shafts if you need one.
Q2. Change the seals and O ring on the disc valve may sort the problem. Dont use any form of sealent, as the disc valve lubes the left side crank bearing and jamming that up with lube will create more problems than it solves. If not, you will need to split the motor and check out the cases. Its possible that the magnesium around the crank area has rotted away. Any water thats been sat in the motor will react with the magnesium, and I have plenty of cases that have rotted through where they have been left exposed to water. Alternatively, it may just require the centre cases sealing up, but will more likely be either seals or rot.
Let me know if you need any further help or explanation.
Most of the works bikes from 80 - 82 ran Betor legs in Marzocchi yokes. The Marzocchi yokes worked a lot better, as the handlebar mounts were a lot further forward. The Betor legs dont flex as much as Marzocchis...other than that can think of no other advantage.
Had the same problem on a TL320 earlier in the year and traced it back to the main jet. Although the carb had been stripped and cleaned a few times, the main jet was tarnished on the outside and also tarnished on the inside to the point where it was restricting the fuel on full throttle. New 90 main jet and the bike ran perfectly. Try this first as its cheap and easier than resetting the disc...if you still have problems, go for the disc setting.
Another thought that I have just been reminded of....take off the tailpipe and shake it. If it rattles, the chances are that the pop welds on the baffles have broken off. There are two baffle plates in the tailpipe, one with a hole at the top, the other at the bottom. If the welds brake, they run ok off the bottom, and then push themselves together, sealing off the tailpipe. Only remedy here is to cut the tailpipe open and weld it up
Conventional right hand thread....anti-clockwise to undo.
1. Lock up the crank to undo the nut by taking out the M8 hex head bolt that sits between the casings (below the exhaust port)
2. There is a hole drilled in the crank shell, if you rotate the crank and stick a small screwdriver through the hole, you should locate it.
3. Use a long M8 bolt to lock the crank up to release the crank nut/counter weight. Incidentally, the crank is now at TDC, if you leave it locked, you will be able to set the disc in the correct position.
The springs on Jumbo footrests are usually mounted on bolts behind the back edge of the rest. However, one of the best mods is to take them off and replace with a set of modern wide footrests....whether you change the postion of the rests is up to you. There is a trend for lowering and setting them further back, with my Jumbo it felt 100% better just having the wide rests in the same position as standard.
Forks were 35mm on the early models, and 38mm later. Best mod for your 35mm's is to find a set of Marzochhi yokes from an early SWM (Fantic 200, Armstrong, etc can be used although stem size is different.) This is a straight swap for the Betor yokes and places the handlebars a lot further forwards improving the steering.
Reeds were fitted on the first models and removed on the later versions. They reckoned that the motors with reeds were very firey and removing them improved grip and made it easier to ride. You will need a blanking plate and a carb rejet if you want to try it, I can also send you the jetting specs.
Coat a one inch wide strip on the base and the vinyl cover where you want them to join, leave each bit to dry for around 15-20 minutes and then stick them together. You get a better finish by fixing the front and back edges first, then one side at a time. I have done hundreds of SWM seats like this (they have a fibreglass base and vinyl cover) with decent results every time. Oh, and another tip, stick the foam to the base before you try to attach the cover.
The bit I forgot to add is that it might just be considered dangerous to ride a bike with 20 year old shoes in it. Have a lining fall off while your riding it and your probably gonna have a trip over the bars.
No insult intended, just stating the facts straight to the point.
I'm going over a 240 that I bought last year, and the last major problem to deal with is weak brakes. The shoes don't look worn at all, but I would guess they're a few decades old. The drums look fine too, with no pitting or visual wear. The front brake cable is lubed, and doesn't seem to stretch more than any other brake cable.
Everything looks fine, but both brakes are horrible! I'm not expecting them to work as well as modern disc brakes, but they should be as good as a 199 Sherpa, or 349 Cota, right?
So where do I start? I was thinking new brake shoes, but thought I would check with you guys first.
So....you have just bought a bike that has a set of brake shoes that are 20 years old, they dont work as good as your 4RT..........buy a new set of shoes and a cable...thats about
Spotted on one of the Road Race sites that the Twinring, Motegi circuit has been badly effected by the earthquakes and will be shut for the time being. (World round scheduled there for June.)
Oil Capacities - Tl320
in SWM
Posted
Its 220cc of 10W oil in each leg for SWM Betors......just like it says in the book.