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About martinm

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    Cheddar UK
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  1. Its 220cc of 10W oil in each leg for SWM Betors......just like it says in the book.
  2. .......Not correct, I have a source of remanufactured carb/disc rubbers if anyone needs them. ........Check the crank seal against the primary drive gear. I did a rebuild for a TC member at Christmas, and it ran exactly as you describe. I reckon I had reinstalled the old crank seal by mistake. When you check the seal on the gear if theres no or very little resistance, thats where your problem is. If you didnt rebuild it....make sure that this seal is in the right way round, and they have installed the disc vale O ring.
  3. Ignore the timing mark , the diagram was downloaded from the SWM dealer manual and also showed the settings for all the MX and enduro versions...so I tidied it up just to show the trials setting.
  4. martinm

    Jumbo Carb

    Getto minimo = pilot jet Spillo conico = needle Valvola gas = slide Polverizzatore = atomizer Cheers Martin
  5. martinm

    Jumbo Carb

    Hi Ian That will depend on whether your motor has the reeds fitted or the blanking plate. The diagram below shows both jetting options. (Figures in brackets are if reeds are fitted.)
  6. martinm

    Maico Trial

    Designed by Emilio Carre from Milan, the bike uses a Tau motor. It was never intended to be built for Maico, but the bike made its debut at a 2 day Italian trial in 1983, with a rider who had a link to the Maico factory....hence the stickers on the bike. Emilio had loaned the bike to Garelli for evaluation purposes as they were interested in geting into the trials market, but when they saw the photos of the bike with the Maico stickers in the Italian press, they returned it....and went the Hiro route.
  7. Try hereand click on the "1980 parts list" link at the bottom of the home page. Martin
  8. martinm

    Majesty Frame.

    Loooking at the photos on Jons album, I reckon that the Yellow frame is bent. If you hit the front end hard enough, the back bone would bend and the steering angle would tuck back in. There is no longer any support to the head area, as there is now a weak spot where the tubes have been chopped to clear the plug. I have seen the same thing a few times before on both SWM's and Bultacos. Martin
  9. martinm

    SWM photo quiz

    Picture taken last week..... World Enduro Champ David Knight MBE
  10. martinm

    SWM photo quiz

    Who's this then ???
  11. martinm

    SWM photo quiz

    Ok Ross Assuming you know who, Michaud, Schreiber, Burgat and Coutard are. Dario Seregni was one of the original design team for SWM Pietro Kuciukian, an Italian dentist who's part time job was SWM trial team manager. Giovanni Tosco, Italian national trials champion in 1975/76 for Ossa and was SWM's development rider. Bernard Cordonnier, Belgian, very tall and SWM works rider, 7th in World Champs 1983.
  12. martinm

    SWM photo quiz

    Excellent Mr zisko.....you know your stuff Regards Martin
  13. martinm

    SWM photo quiz

    Can you name all of the former SWM employees in the photo, taken recently at the Mont Ventoux Trial in France.
  14. Hi Reginald Q1. Unfortunatley you will have to split that motor. There are only two ways I can think that the gearbox would jam up. First one, is the selector barrel is located by a tensioner arm.....its the bit that locates it in position every time you change gear. Its possible to build a motor with this arm wedged behind the selector barrel (I have done this enough times !!), so I guess with a big enough hit it would knock the barrel and pop the arm. Secondly, is that the shaft would probably bend at the weakest point, this being at the point it either enters or exits the kickstart shaft...so it would be possible that its bent inside, therefore allowing the kickstart to operate as normal, but not select any gears. So, split the motor, I have plenty of decent used gear shafts if you need one. Q2. Change the seals and O ring on the disc valve may sort the problem. Dont use any form of sealent, as the disc valve lubes the left side crank bearing and jamming that up with lube will create more problems than it solves. If not, you will need to split the motor and check out the cases. Its possible that the magnesium around the crank area has rotted away. Any water thats been sat in the motor will react with the magnesium, and I have plenty of cases that have rotted through where they have been left exposed to water. Alternatively, it may just require the centre cases sealing up, but will more likely be either seals or rot. Let me know if you need any further help or explanation. Cheers Martin
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