Wax creates a top layer of protection on the leather as well as maintaining the suppleness of the leather. If you don't wax eventually the leather will dry out and crack. I could liken this top level of protection to that of 'proofing' a waterproof jacket, it causes the water to run off before it even gets to the material.
If you keep a boot well waxed even when the waterproof membrane goes - which it will - the boot will still remain water proof.
Wax shouldn't be confused with dubbing which in my experience makes leather too soft, good for an italian loafers not good for a boot thats supposed to be supporting and protecting you. Also I've seen over application of dubbing cause seperation of the fibres in the leather which can also cause cracking.
A good wax I've used is Grangers G-Wax which is available from most walking shops.
The rotting stitching idea comes from when most boots were made using cotton threads which do indeed rot, these days mostly man made threads are used, such as nylon, due to their better strength and water repellent abilities. These don't rot with dubbing or wax.
If you haven't changed the oil change it. After that I'd take the clutch cover off and take out the plates, check the condition, give them a bit of a clean if ncessary or order new ones if they're beyond repair.
About four years ago I finally threw out a pair of Gaerne boots (not the SM ones but almost identical) that I bought in 1982 or 1983. They were still usable and I was hoping the latest Gaerne boots would be of the same standard.
Currently using Sidi boots that are now starting to fall apart after four years of use - perhaps I shouldn't jetwash them....which leads to another question, what's the best way to clean boots that are well and truly plastered in mud?
Pressure washer isn't so bad, although a hosepipe and brush would probably be better. Once clean, towel dry, leave for a few mins and then wax while the leather is still slightly wet, then put the boots away somewhere room temperature.
I work for a bootmaker, we resole all kinds of boots but the veldt stitched construction of the gaernes isn't something we can do and I don't know of anyone who can in this country. Italy maybe! The stitching machines are quite specialist and if the leather is damaged it would need stripping, repairing and then re-lasting.
My gaernes have lasted me 2 years and are still going strong.
The only tip I could give to anyone is when waxing the boots to make sure you get loads of wax on the stitching that holds the sole on. This stops it drying out which in turn leads to the stitching fraying.
You need something to hold the damper assembly inside the fork to stop it rotating as you do it up. You can buy/make a tool to do this - welding an appropriate size bolt onto a rod for example. But you could try a broom handle, it's worked before!
Deep end!! Just use it as a practice, remember you don't have to attempt all sections if you're not confident. Just have a ride round and try the ones you like the look of.
In a section;
No feet down - 0 marks (clean)
1 foot down (known as a dab) - 1 mark
2 dabs - 2 marks
3 dabs (or as many as you like to get you out of the end of the section) - 3 marks
Stop, come off your bike, don't wait for the observer to wave you in, miss a gate, don't make it out of the end of the section - 5 marks.
To start with the key thing is just to get the bike out of the end of the section! Even if that involves 'walking' out with it! (when I say walking I mean still on the bike just using your feet to help you along) That way you only get a 3 instead of abandoning your run and getting a 5.
If it's been turned already I'd just get a new one.
That way you're starting from scratch and will be able to gauge how long it takes before you start feeling the grip go - given your style, terrain you ride and technique - and you will feel it go.
I'm not a particularly good rider so I change my tyre reasonably often as it gives me a boost in my performance having a newer tyre - but I see guys way better than me, doing better the me, riding on tyres that I wouldn't dare compete on! Think I might take note of what Tombo said and start practicing finding grip on well worn tyres!
For tyre pressures I'm 15 stone and never put more than 4psi in the rear and usually 6 in the front. It does depend on how 'broken in' the tyre is though, with a new IRC i was able to run 2psi with no problems then just upped the pressure to 4 as it wore in.
Does anyone know anything about respoking a 'z' spoke rear wheel from a 250 mono?
I have some spokes but it seems you can't replace individual spokes due to the 'z' bit. Do I have to remove all the spokes to replace one? Or is there a special technique?
Angle grinder sorted that for me, just can't get the new one in.
Dodgy Montesa Cota
in Montesa
Posted · Edited by tt5th
http://www.sandiford.co.uk/
I'd give them a try, they should be able to help or point you in the right direction.