ok cheers. is there a chance that if i keep riding it that the clutch will stop draging as much or not
Not. You need to fix the problem. The link r2 gave you should provide enough info to sort you out. If you have been running "non-compatible" oil, then plate replacement may be in order, but try all the other things first.
millybob, the difference you felt between your mates and yours may also be down the the ignition programming being used. This is programmable with the Ducati system and dual stage for the new Kokusan system.
oceanvibe, I agree with Ron, check carefully for tiny nick and polish them out carefully.
Also when replacing fork seals, always replace the dust wiper with them. That little dust seal does wonders at keeping dirt out of the seal.
In many cases fork seal leaks are not caused by damaged seals. A small speck of dirt often gets past the dust seal and slips under the oil seal, creating the leak. Remember those oil seals are intended to keep the oil in, not grit out. That's the job of the dust seal and why it's so important. Before replacing your seals, first try cleaning them out. Cleaning technique
This technique works wonders in many cases, although can take a few tries to get it right sometimes. It is a good idea to drain, flush and refill the fork with fresh oil afterwards, as often the grit you removed is moved into the fork, where it can possible create more wear.
One more thing....never put your bike away dirty. Mud and such can dry onto the fork tube, then the next time you move the bike, this dirt is forced through the seal, often damaging it. This is the single biggest reason for true seal damage. At least wipe the forks down after a ride, particularly after mud riding (although I know you guys in the UK never see mud )
oh, by the way, there's nothing wrong with the GG seals. In fact you'll probably find they are manufactured by the same folks that make everyone elses seals. Blaming the seal is a very poor excuse in almost all cases of fork seal leaks in any brand.
This is something that has puzzled me for a long time so does anyone out there know the answer.
Still think it comes down friction, created by all the additional moving parts. Friction is where the vast majority of engine heat comes from anyways. Just have to look at an air compressor to see it in action...no fire...lots of heat.
Hi I have an 05 300 that is a pig to start when hot, either one kick or twenty, JTT when you moved the pickup I assume you moved it closer to the flywheel, is it the electrical box that is held on by one allen screw and the case mounting 'stud' ? cheers Pete
Yes, that's the one Pete. I just took a feeler, placed it between the pickup and the flywheel and moved it dow till it touched, then retightened. Be sure to rotate the flywheel around by hand to make sure it doesn't actually make contact anywhere before buttoning everything back up.
Also check your fuel screw setting Pete, as if it is only doing this when hot, it may be just a tad rich on the very bottom.
Yes, and in fact they offer three different thickness of base gaskets in most cases. Basically the same effect as the spacer, only cheaper. The change in port timing is so small that it would be difficult to notice, seat of the pants.
Some friends of mine have tried to plug two wires which come out of the CDI (one orange and one black). They say it's more powerful. Doi you knowanything about this trick ???
Celine, I am told on the 2005 models that the CDI actually has 2 ignition curves onboard. By changing the configuration of this wire your speaking of, you get the more aggressive curve, or the milder one. Some have actually wired these to a switch so they can easy change back and forth depending on conditions.
Lean jetting would be my first suspect, perhaps something got caught in the pilot after cleaning? If you haven't already, you might try one richer on the pilot. These bikes all seem to come lean on the pilot.
The next thing would be fuel quality, but I am assuming you are using the same fuel as previously.
Sounds like it could be a worn or bend shift fork or drum. I'd just be aware of it and take care shifting till you can get the time to open it up and verify the problem. For what it's worth, these motors are lovely to work on and easy to split the cases on. Tranny is simple and easily accessable.
I'm sure r2 will chime in soon, as he has an '03 250 (now 300). As for the airbox, it's nothing more than doing to simple mods mentioned many times on here....reseal, mud flaps, etc.
I personally had an '03 280. It was not too savage by any means. The 280 is the most aggressive of the three (250/280/300), but by no means savage. Jet it a little fat on the pilot and it helps to tame the response and smooth things out. r2 will be able to answer your concerns on power, but I don't think you have to worry one way or the other. The last 250 I rode had lots of power, just a little softer than the 280 and comes on a little later in the revs.
If this bike is second hand, make sure it has been properly maintained (ie: frequent oil changes, greased, and generally cared for)...if it hasn't, walk away.
BA is correct. 450cc is for the Pro motors only. Don't worry about the sight glass, it only lets you know you haven't run out of oil completely. Not accurate as a level indicator in most cases.
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...you're bike(s) always look in better nik than mine 
New 4 Stroke
in General Trials Talk
Posted
Interesting...but some things are a little odd...like a CV carb???