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Hey Denis, Sorry for being late to the party I don't get on here very much these days. Anyway, I have a 2007 300Pro myself. Great bike. I've had several Pros over the years and loved each, although I have a particular fondness for the 300 models. I see you are in Moncton? Timely that I come across this, as our Provincial association, NS Offroad Riders Association (NSORRA) is working at this very moment on acquiring and building 1-3 trials riding areas!!, and putting on some events over the upcoming year, organized practices, competitions, and possible school. Drop me an email with your contact information so I can keep you in the loop. Joe

Yup. You can also clean air filters in any high flash point solvent (kerosine, etc). I'd also strongly recommend that after washing in solvent that you wash the filter again in nice warm water with some dish washing soap. You'll be surprised how much more dirt is released in the soapy water, even after a thorough solvent washing.

Alexei, First question I would have is what gearbox oil are you using? This is important because the fibre plates of Pros are effected by some oils and causes swelling and therefore clutch drag. You should use the recommended non-synthetic ATF (automatic transmission fluid). As for bleeding. Yes, they can be a PIA to bleed. Not sure of your technique but the best success I've had is using a syringe on the slave end and pushing fluid up to the master cylinder. Take the top off the master and let it overflow. It's messy, be warned. If it's particularly stubborn, I'll push fluid up for a little, then draw back on the syringe slightly pulling some fluid back...and often an air bubble as well. Now, when you changed the seals on the slave, did you make sure everything was surgically clean? Also both seals should be lightly coated with silicone grease. I've put in seals without the grease and had them fail almost immediately. With a little grease, and extreme cleanliness, they'll work fine and for an extended period of time. Hope these things help. I don't get on here as much as I used to so feel free to drop me an email if you have any more trouble. I've spent a fair amount of time on these.

Michelin X11 Rear= 213 mm OD Front= 221 mm OD

I haven't had one of the Trials Ohlins apart, but have had many of the MX/Enduro ones apart. This screw does not seal the nitrogen charge on a normal Ohlins shock. It is little more than a dust cap. The charge is sealed with a rubber under this screw. Still shouldn't hit regardless. I'd rather replace the screw with a low profile bit than grind the frame. Bushing swap is the right solution though.

If your speaking of the air mixture screw, it's on the airbox side. Little brass slotted screw.

So long as the bike is pre-06 and not a Raga

Looks just like the one of Dougie's Montesa in Duluth a couple of years back.

I wouldn't chance it...those slave o-rings can be sensitive. You should be able to find silicone grease in any autoparts outlet. Heck I'd send you a blob, but don't think it would survive the mail

At the Supercross making a living

If 1-2 turns on the screw doesn't fix it, pick up the next size up pilot jet. I've found I can run one richer on the pilot on every Pro I've owned.

Don't let some of the stuff on here put you off. You'll see most comments are from guys who've never even owned one. Most who have have been perfectly happy. I've had every Pro since 2002 and haven't had any issues worth speaking about, aside from an ignition adjustment needed on my 2005 300. If you like the feel of the bike, buy it and hop on past all the neysayers with your front wheel held high

Don't hold back Ringo....tell us what you really think! Just when I was getting bored, leave it to Sendro and Tom for sarcastic relief

yup

I am going to assume the bike is running when this happens? It's kind of a "clack" sound...like you tapped the motor with a small hammer? If this is accurate, it's likely a lean condition at idle causing this. It is sort of "pinking", which is caused by detonation and is normally noticed most under heavy load and open throttle...sounds sort of like a bag of marbles being shaken. This too is usually a sign of a lean condition. If the noise your hearing is similar to what I described above, I suggest you turn the fuel screw (little brass slot screw on the side of the carb) out 1/2 to a full turn and see if it improves.

ATF is the recommended fluid. It provides plenty good lubrication qualities, so don't worry about that, and provides the best clutch action (not surprising when you consider that's what it's designed for) If your truely concerned about maximum protection, change it more frequently. Clean oil is superior to even the most expensive dirty oils.

Hey lads. r2 just woke me up, so he it goes.... The o-rings are part of the slave cylinder that actuates the clutch. There are two orings, one on the tranny oil side, the other on the brake fluid side...never the two shall meet. Early 2002's had orings that were effected by the fluid and caused them to leak. This effected the clutch operation in much the same way having air in the hydraulic line would...cause dragging and inability to disengage the clutch fully...or at all if left. Changing them is a breeze. Once you use the updated orings, they seem to hold up to contamination just fine. The key to the process is surgical cleanliness. All components need to be absolutely oil and fluid free, as do the orings. Install the rings with a little smidge (technical term) of silicone grease...NOT AXLE GREASE. This bit of grease is critical to making them last in my experience...we're talking a tiny bit though, don't slather it on like an axle. Put all back together and bleed. If you maintained everything good and clean, used the proper orings and a little silicone grease the clutch will work fine for a long time. It's a very easy job and parts are extremely cheap. If you don't get it right, you simply do it again...no biggy.

I have to say I'm a Hayden fan. I've met him on several occasions now and he's a truely nice guy...top sort. Can't say there's many I don't like though, particularly with Biaggi on the bench I've little time for Kenny Jr though. Also a big Bayliss fan...shame he's not there, but putting on a great show over at the World supers!

Any good waterproof grease will work. I really like moly based lubes for linkage in particular, but it's messy.

Your killin' me over here Mark, as I sit in a bloody "white" world 35 degs sounds pretty nice to me

With regard to the "shimming" it has to do with the clutch pack thickness and the nature of the pressure plate style clutch. If you clutch is engaging where you want it, don't worry about it. The noise is totally normal and as r2 said, has to do with the finger actuators for the pressure plate clutch system. It's just the way they work, nothing to be concerned with in the least. There are some conflicts with the manuals from time to time. I think the recommendations of the GRP oil is down to a sponsorship arrangement with the factory and their race teams. The bikes come from the factory with ATF (red oil)...and it's best to stick with this. Stick with the non-synthetic ATF and change it frequently. Buy it in 4L tubs and use it up. Clean oil is ALWAYS better than dirty oil, no matter how expensive the dirty oil is. I change my oil in my Pro no less than every second ride as an example.

Contrary to earlier advise, do clean and grease the linkage and swingarm. No harm in it and they often come from the factory with little grease in there. Neglecting it can lead to serious headaches down the road...simply no downside to doing it. I have to agree that with good oil, 75-80:1 is a fine mix ratio and you won't have any troubles. No need for 50:1 unless you plan to roadrace it. Removing the ignition cover after a wet ride or wash is always a good practise. Again, no harm done by doing it, but lots of harm done by not. Enjoy! ...and Happy Birthday

Timp is right, don't be using it in your 2 stroke. Find the problem and fix it right, or you'll have a bigger problem on your hands. Addiction? ...only if using the "blue" powerband

I'm thinking that Indoor World Championships are about the only hope trials has of ever making mainstream sports. Look what Supercross has done for MX...guaranteed it would not be where it is to day without SX. With "mainstream" comes $$$...with $$$ comes more factory support, better riders and higher levels of competition, or at least higher levels of riding for sure. I think you can dismiss it as being "not the real thing" but realistically it's likely to be the future of the sport