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Sorry to hear about your girlfriend BA, hope she's alright. Nice looking Fantic! WoW! Is that a "fluid drive" system as there is clearly no sprocket or chain Some sort of Works prototype I suppose

admacp, there is a bolt deep in the recess of the clutch hub (right in the center). It's a 4mm hex head bolt, as I remember. Stick your hex head socket down the center of the clutch hub and you will find it. By removing it, you can remove the whole clutch pack as a complete assembly (without actually removing plates). If this comes loose, it can allow the clutch to float and may rub the cases. If the previous owner had it apart, it is conceivable that he forgot to tighten, or even replace this bolt, as it is kind of hidden and easily forgot.

Actually I never had the problem myself, or with any that I saw. Seemingly it was down to the eccentric cam affair on the end of the shift drum. Jim Snell in the US had a tech bulletin on it and how to check for it. I'm sure that Kev at GG UK could give you the rundown if necessary. Basically it came down to adjusting the tension and centering of this mechanism. If off, the bike will not shift out of first. Also verify that the spring on this mechanism has been updated on early 2002 models, as some of the early ones had defective tempering of this spring that lead to it breaking. Updated springs were provided and has a dab of red paint on it to ID it. I'm sure if the bikes been going this long, it's most certainly had the updated spring, so not likely worth worrying about too much.

That's the pad r2....it does look off colour a bit in the pick, but in real life it's a silver grey, same as the 300s

My feeling has always been best to leave them alone unless they are causing a problem. As you are well aware, aluminum is not too happy about repeated bending.

Removing the ignition cover and letting things dry out is nothing more than standard preventative maintenance in my opinion, just like changing gearbox oil and cleaning airfilters. I've been doing this for 25 yrs on all my dirtbikes...and spud, don't worry about wasting WD40...no need for the whole can, just a quick spurt will do fine Take head in what Jools is saying about checking spokes and resealing the box. Resealing is an easy job and should be done just in case regardless. Spokes on any bike should be checked regularly, if you want your wheels to last. A little WD40 or similar on the nipples also helps to keep then from seizing later in life.

Sting, the standard Hebo fat bar pad is silver...or at least the one I have is. Should look quite nice on a 300.

Varying throttle is always a good idea on any 2 stroke motor...they really don't like long steady throttle settings at all.

Glad to see your back on you Meds Ringo

That one your boofont? Very nice example! I've got a '73 RD350 in my garage in several boxes, just dying to see the tarmac again...shame it will never look that good though.

WARNING...long and technical in nature HERE is one of the best dissertations on AVgas that I've come across recently.

A Harley is the only carb I'd tune with a hammer

If that's the case it may not be too bad. Pull the top end and inspect for scratches/gouges in the cylinder wall and piston. I've seen lots of seized MX motors without doing any damage to the cylinder wall plating.

Yup, pretty cool. I think ol' GW kinda got hooked as he seems to have a bit of a soft spot for trials these days

Ouch...nice powerplant though...well, it was

Should be perfectly fine.

Of course your correct Bruce...I just forget sometimes that others around here actually live somewhere the temps get to the freezing point

There is no such thing as changing gear oil too frequently...clean oil is always best, so change often. I agree with neonsurge, 50:1 is excessive for modern trials bikes. 80:1 with a good quality synthetic oil should be sufficient. Keep an eye on rear suspension linkage bearings, swingarm bearing and steering head bearings, as well as wheel bearing. Keep these greased and you'll get long service out of your bike.

In fact plain water is the best at removing heat...however it has a fairly low boiling temp. Adding antifreeze or "coolant" raises the boiling point making it less likely to boil over....so yes, coolant stuff

You are very correct Thomas, the 280 is indeed very smooth and predictable. The term "more aggressive" is relative to the 250 and 300 models, although the differences are very small between all of them. Also the 280 has become more mellow with each model year.

Enduro, I agree that you should have no problem on the 300. Compared to your EC it will feel like a pussycat. Yes, it has big torque, but very smooth delivery and is in fact the preferred model by most "clubman" type riders over here for that smooth torquey power. The 250 is also very nice, with less torque right on the bottom, but still very smooth. Strangely, it seems the 280 is the most aggressive of them all, much like the 250 in the EC line. Don't overlook the 200 either as it's a really sweet little bike if your not too heavy.

I did alot of this technique this past weekend, as elkay can attest Does seem rediculous that you can kill you engine, but get a "5" for hopping back

You got it now Remember on your Dellorto that the screw is actually a "fuel screw" rather than an "air screw" as noted in the TW article...basically the same principal, but now clockwise is leaner rather than richer.

Great minds Neonsurge oh, and by the way r2...I said a "wise man"

Just for clarification...the mixture screw and the pilot jet are two different items, althoug do work closely together. Thomas, I don't think the mixture (or otherwise known as the fuel screw) will give you enough variance, think your likely down to replacing a pilot jet.