Posted
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Edited by sportsawyer Removed repeated word.
The old style pump assembly (2005 - 2015) uses an external vacuum operated pressure regulator so there's a constant differential pressure on the injector. The new pump (2016+) provides constant absolute pressure to the injector inlet, and the ECU adjusts spray duration based on vacuum seen by the MAP sensor. Since the new system ECU is compensating for the varying differential pressure on the injector, I beleive you will need a 2016+ ECU. If you can find a Honda Common Service Manual (2012 or newer printing), look at the fuel injection chapter, pages 9-19 & 9-20 in the 2012 printing, where the difference between these two fuel delivery types (and ECU compensation for absolute pressure delivery) is explained.
You'd also need a new (2016+) tank because the newer big o-ring pump mounting is completely different. Not sure about the injector assembly, but the new one has the pressure regulator removed and capped. The vacuum port on the head is not longer needed and must be capped. And there's no fuel return line with the new setup. A new fuel pump, tank, and ECU will likely be pricey, and then there's all the small parts that will pile up. So it may cost less to try and find an old style Mitani / Future Trial / DDM or other lightweight base or fuel pump assembly if you wish to save weight there.
... That just leaves one question for ya’ll to ponder…Since the engine does not have cam position sensor (or points), how does it know which stroke it is on?It would be easy to suggest it just fires the spark plug every second crank trigger but it has to pick the correct one to align with the camshaft otherwise it wouldn’t run.I have a theory on how it might achieve this every start but wondered if someone else would like to offer an opinion. Looking forward to your comments. ...
In the past, I suspected the ECU was looking at MAP vacuum to determine the intake stroke and know which crank revolution it was on.
I seem to recall that the temp sender is not just a switch but one that gives varying output as the temp rises - the ecu decides when the fan comes on. I think the Ecu uses the temp info for fuel setting and limp home modes etc ...
Jimmyl is correct. It's a thermistor that has room temperature resistance of 2.3 – 2.6 kΩ. And it's used by the ECU for FI adjustments as well as telling the fan relay to start. I can't see blocking it out. And if the ECU sees the resistance is out-of-range it may put the bike in limp mode. I know if it's simply disconnected, the bike will go into limp mode.
I'd suspect your problem is due to a stopped fan blade. It's happened to me once when a pebble got into the fan housing and jammed the blade. The fan motor kept trying and melted the fan blade around its metal hub.
Another time I had the fan stopped because the "purse lock" (what it's called in the parts manual, see Frame F-21 Reference #11) that holds the wire / vent gas hose bundle together a couple inches above the ignition coil had rotated so it stopped the fan blade. I found that soon enough that nothing was damaged. This could be intermittent.
These problems were probably seen by others because the fan housing was changed in 2016 to open it up in the bottom (where I had a trapped pebble) to reduce chance of a jam there, and raise the height on the sides so the "purse lock" or wires can't move into the fan blade sweep.
If a previous owner took the gas vent hose out of the bundle, and your bike has the "purse lock", it may fit loosely and can rotate into the fan sweep, then rotate out of the way later. Check that first.
Ok an update, DO NOT ever remove the fuel pump unless you’ve bought the replacement o rings that cost £44....
In the USA, the set of o-rings is about $16 (no VAT in USA) through online parts. They fit CRF450R and CRF250R for the last 10 years, so they are pretty common.
FWIW, at that price, you may want to just order the whole Fuel Filter Kit P.N. 06160-MEN-A31. It includes the big o-rings, the little o-ring for the fuel filter, and the fuel filter. Saw it on a UK online parts site for £55.
I would trust feeler guage more than guitar strings.
they are cheap to buy so just bend the one you need...simple....
There's also the feel of pulling the gauge that I like. The manual calls it "slight drag." Don't think you could get that with wire.
For the intakes, Motion Pro makes a "tappet feeler gauge" (do a search) with 0.004" and 0.005". Works great. I also have the 0.006" and 0.008" and set intakes tight on the 0.006" so they're at the big end of the range.
They don't make one in 0.012" for the exhaust. I've done as others mentioned and bent a 0.012" gauge leaf.
I usually see more change in the intakes. And it's small. Usually only tighten about 0.001" every year or two. But I don't do the wide-open point-and-shoot thing much either. The more high RPM, the more you'll need to check valve clearance.
Before taking the time to change the TPS stop, what happens if you twist the throttle quickly to high throttle -- maybe 7/8 full throttle? If it does the same thing, I doubt adding a shim for the last 1/32 of opening will make any difference.
Posted
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Edited by sportsawyer Added 2018 P.N. changes.
51 minutes ago, monteeman said:
... Do we know if the later 2018 300rr 3 ring piston can be retro fitted to an earlier 300rr, to solve the oil use issue, just out of interest?
Along with the piston / ring set changing in 2017, the cylinder and left center case also changed. I don't know exactly why each changed. But I'd want to find out what was changed in the cylinder before using a 2017 piston / ring set in a 2016 cylinder. It could be related to side cutouts on the bottom of cylinder, and the oil ring being lower on the 3-ring piston. And if the new cylinder is needed for the new piston, is the new left center case needed for the new cylinder?
Part Numbers 2016 --> 2017 --> 2018
Piston: 13101-NN4-L60 --> 13101-NN4-M60 --> Same
Ring Set: 13011-NN4-L60 --> 13011-NN4-M60 --> 13011-NN4-N60
Cylinder: 12100-NN4-L60 --> 12100-NN4-M60 --> Same
Left Center Case: 11200-NN4-L60 --> 11200-NN4-M60 --> Same
... another is a 2016 300rr which is local and has pitched up for 4750. looks clean....very clean …....tempting...
The first-year (2016) 300RRs had a 2-ring piston. They went back to 3-ring piston in 2017. All 4RTs from 2005 to 2020 except the 2016 300RR have used a 3-ring piston.
... I’m assuming it’s either 5 or 2.5 as it’s a trials bike and needs to stay bouncy.
Banyeres Trials Parts services Showa trials shocks and sells Showa trials shock parts. The Banyeres website lists Showa SS25 as the official rear suspension oil.
It's 2.5W. But 2.5W rated oils can vary a fair amount. There are comparison tables online. Honda sells an SS-25 rear suspension oil under the Pro Honda name that may be the same stuff.
... Are you saying the 301 has 301RR parts list and manual are now out. And nothing in either about the stock 4ED 16400-NN1-P71
The 300 RR being 16400-NN4-M71
Other throttle bodies have a noticeably different parts number not just a letter change!!
The 2020 301RR parts list and manual are available online from Montesa France and Montesa Honda Spain.
The numbering is as expected. 16400 is the component code for an integrated TB/ECU. The NN4 is the model code for all 4RTs (250, 260, 300, 301, standard, Repsol, 4Ride), some of the early programmable units had an HRC model code here, but all newer (than about 2007) TB/ECUs programmable or not use the NN4 model code. The M and P are just for the model-year the part first appeared. Any new parts on any 2017 4RT models had an M. The 2018 continued to use the 2017 TB/ECU. The P is for any new parts on 2020 4RT models, so when you're looking at the parts list, scan for the P parts for anything new. The 7 is for parts unique to the 300/301 4ED models, a 6 in that position is for the 300/301 2ED models.
The RTL has a slightly different scheme for the last 2 digits for parts unique to the Japanese HRC bikes. And since there was a -H01 programmable in 2010, I'm guessing the -M01 may also be programmable. The Japanese HRC RTL models only come in one flavor per model year, just a competition model in one displacement and no standard/Repsol.
... Did you get anywhere after your post on the 300RR PTB thread we had going a while back ...
I was going to ask you the same. Were you ever able to get your stock 4ED TB/ECU to take a program? I'd try it, but don't have a 300RR to play with.
Still haven't found any details regarding anOptional Tuning Kit for the 300RR. But did find a new TB/ECU part number in a Japanese updated price list for HRC parts. It's 16400-NN4-M01 and listed for the current RTL300R sold in Japan. That number would follow the scheme used with the 2010 RTL260F sold in Japan. The 2010 RTL260F did come standard with a 2-map programmable TB/ECU with P.N. 16400-NN4-H01. The parts list for that bike also showed the Serial-USB I/F cable and software as optional. So I've been try to find an RTL300R parts list online to see if it shows the same. So far, no luck.
Also, the 301RR parts list and manual are now out. And nothing in either about the stock 4ED 16400-NN1-P71 being programmable or Optional Tuning Kit Serial-USB I/F cable or software.
The Japanese HRC site has "setting tools" listed for the CRF450R and CRF250R, but not the RTL300R. But it does show the 38880-N1C-770 Serial-USB I/F/ cable as compatible with "... RTL260F/RTL300R (RTL requires dedicated sub-code)" so it looks like that's common, but I don't know if the RTL260F 2-map software 38771-NN4-H00 works with the 300RR (I'm guessing it would, but not sure).
So... still looking. Anyone else know for sure?
leosantanalg, have you been able to program the stock 4ED 16400-NN4-M71 yet? Which Serial-USB I/F and software did you use? And did you download the factory maps for modes 1 and 2 from the TB/ECU before reprogramming?
The 301RR also has different center-cases (both sides) and a different crank. The parts list is available on the Montesa Honda Spain and Montesa France sites.
What is the part number of the programmable TB/ECU you got for the 300RR. Is it the HRC 16400-NN4-M01 from the RTL300R?
A couple of years or so ago there was an American outfit (can't recall the name) producing plain coloured trousers of a more seemly cut for the mature rider but I am not sure what material was involved. Are they still on the go?
Sounds like Up and Over Trials. Nice pants, but they'll melt on headpipes like other brands.
Just looking of the possibility to create a flat tank with similar fuel capacity ...
Another way is just to add capacity to a flat tank in the lower front region. If you're cutting up a tank anyway, could do more cutting / fabbing.
Banyeres lists two Mitani flat tanks (SP2 & SP3 styles) for the 2005-2015 fuel pump assembly that are expanded. There are photos on the Banyeres site.
If you look at the Repsol Honda Team bikes, their tanks are similarly expanded. Look for recent years photos of the left side.
The factory seems to think that's a better way to get more capacity, since they keep the internal fuel pump assembly. They did it with the regular top profile for outdoors events. May have been needed for the 15 section loops.
The -600 part is silver for the standard models and the -D10 part is black for the Repsol models. Same part, different paint.
FWIW, the TWK (AKA: Mitani) stand is better in several ways. It stays up when up, and down when down. The foot is higher and out of the way, so it doesn't snag obstacles. It supports the bike much better, especially in sand, or on slopes, or just about anywhere. And as a bonus, it's 1/2 lb. lighter.
Extra for TWK sidestand users... the spring is Honda P.N. 50535-KN5-670. This spring is standard on XR200 / CRF150F / CRF230F / TLR200 / ...
Head work
in Montesa
Posted · Edited by sportsawyer
Removed repeated word.
The old style pump assembly (2005 - 2015) uses an external vacuum operated pressure regulator so there's a constant differential pressure on the injector. The new pump (2016+) provides constant absolute pressure to the injector inlet, and the ECU adjusts spray duration based on vacuum seen by the MAP sensor. Since the new system ECU is compensating for the varying differential pressure on the injector, I beleive you will need a 2016+ ECU. If you can find a Honda Common Service Manual (2012 or newer printing), look at the fuel injection chapter, pages 9-19 & 9-20 in the 2012 printing, where the difference between these two fuel delivery types (and ECU compensation for absolute pressure delivery) is explained.
You'd also need a new (2016+) tank because the newer big o-ring pump mounting is completely different. Not sure about the injector assembly, but the new one has the pressure regulator removed and capped. The vacuum port on the head is not longer needed and must be capped. And there's no fuel return line with the new setup. A new fuel pump, tank, and ECU will likely be pricey, and then there's all the small parts that will pile up. So it may cost less to try and find an old style Mitani / Future Trial / DDM or other lightweight base or fuel pump assembly if you wish to save weight there.