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Did this get resolved as I seem to have the same issue

Thanks for that. As I mentioned I added a ball bearing but then the clutch pressure plate did not engage with the central hub. You are right though, every other Yamaha I have owned, and there’s been a few of many types has the ball between the Rod and mushroom. Somethings up that’s for sure

Hi. I have an ongoing problem with the clutch on my TY175. In a nutshell when in gear and with the lever in, the clutch is not quite disengaging. There is the correct amount of play at the lever and at the adjuster behind the case on the left hand side. I understand there is a couple of different pushrod options with the TY. Some drawings show a Rod, ball and mushroom and some without the ball bearing. I’ve taken the clutch off and there is no ball bearing. However adding a ball bearing means that the pressure plate sits too high. I'm also led to understand that the washers that sit under the inner and outer baskets are different sizes. Could it be that I have these around the wrong way? If so which one goes where (assuming they are different thickness)? Any advice appreciated as I’ve had this thing apart plenty of times trying to sort it. Thanks

Engine is in tact and hasn’t been disassembled. What has been removed is the gear shaft near side cover, the splined lever where the hole becomes oval and that’s it. I’ll look to post some pictures

Hi. Advice please. I’ve repaired my gear selector cover on my TY175. All back together again and now I cannot select any gears. It’s as if the selector forks inside the engine are jammed or not moving and won’t move the pinions. After much huffing and puffing I took the clutch off to see the shifter assembly on the end of the gear shaft. The hooks don’t appear to engage with the pinned drum and hence won’t move anything. I tried to rotate the pinned drum manually but it seems to be locked solid. Any ideas?

Thanks for your comments. I’m not about to change the gearbox for a while as this one will be an occasional 2nd ride. I was just wondering if I drop the primaries ratio down whether I’d suffer some clutch slip. I can see that sprockets are available to go from the 20t to 15t. However when I did this in my Cub I did suffer a little. The jury is still out on the clutch. I’ve seen the Yamaha conversion along with the 9E mods but before I swallow that pill I’d like to give the std set a try.

Hi. I’m embarking in my first Villiers project. This is a Francis Barnett with an 8E engine and 4 speed box. I’m after some advice on gearing and primary ratios, so here goes - To begin with I’ll be using the standard clutch. I have though about lowering the primary ratio but figure that may introduce some clutch slip. Currently the ‘box of bits’ includes a clutch with 38t and a primary sprocket of 19t. Should I go lower than the 19t? - Final drive I can go 13t/50t by looking at the Villiers Services shop. Do anyone have problems with chain issues using a 13t? - Final one, given the answers above is there any benefit in going low 2nd? Is there something available for the 8E 4-speeder or what I have to convert to a 9E layshaft A lot there, so appreciate your assistance

Thank you for confirming that the format is as per Majesty. Yes I had kind of guessed that it was probably a Nov '81 bike. The 'B' suggesting it is a mini Majesty adds up as well as the frame rails are straight and its a bugger getting an engine into such a small space.

I have what I believe is a Majesty frame but wondered if anyone could verify the format to confirm what it is. The number is 81 11 01 B. The frame appears to have originally been painted yellow. I am assuming it’s a Godden version. Any help appreciated

Teamferret. Yes that's a good point.I had that problem on my Cub when I dropped the size of the primary sprocket. I guess it's probably best to stay conservative on the primary sprocket and experiment with the final drive ratios then

I have an 8E Villiers engine I’m looking to use and wondered if anyone could give me some advice on primary gearing. I notice that Villiers Services do 15/16/17/18 primary sprockets. Any views on what would be best? I have the 4 speed box and again wondered is there is much value in extra low 2nd and 3rd gears? any advice appreciated

Thanks Tony

Hi I have a Villiers engine code 071B xxxxx 200cc. Could anyone help identify what it is? I assume a 7E?

Very quick one, is the RD350 inlet mod the carb rubber as well as the reed block? If so does any material need to be taken out of the inlet. Thanks, new to all this

Thanks for the posts. I’m defo after a twinshock as my local club has events almost every weekend and some midweek as well. I’m a Yamaha man so that’s my preference but like things like SWM and the Seeley Honda. Not really thought about a Fantic although there was a lot of them at my last trial. I had an OSSA Mar but found it a bit of a lump, but great to ride. I’ll keep my eye open thanks

Hi. I’m looking at getting back into trials as soon as we are out of Lock down. I’m looking at TYs and wonted some advice; - apart from the obvious what’s the differences between the 175 and 250s. I’m guessing the 250 is heavier and perhaps has a longer wheelbase but probably pulls better with greater torque? Any views on how they ride by comparison? - what benefits do the Majesty modifications make and are these actually worth it for a club rider? thanks

Hi. So as I read it, as a minimum I need to block the breather hole near the clutch cable entry to stop water getting inside when riding through water and streams and fit a new breather somewhere with a non return valve. My engine is built now so I dont really fancy taking it apart to fit a blind bush on the cam

What about the offside case. Does that need to have oil in it for any reason?

Thanks robido. I do seem to have a constant ‘trickle’ of oil under this Cub. I’ve taken to making my own gaskets as the brown paper ones are worthless and this has improved things but guess that the cases become damage over time. I was wondering, is there any reason why the right hand outer case needs to carry oil? Seems to me that all the mechanics are inside the engine. Could I block up any holes and run this side case without a gasket. I haven’t looked to closely whether this is feasible/advisable

Thanks. I spoke to Pete earlier. Nice bloke. No stock now due to Covid but expects to be receiving stuff from his suppliers in a few weeks. I'm the meantime if I use the 'dipstick approach' so that the chain is lubricated, will thr plates burn out, u der thr massive power load?

Does it still need oil? I guess so

Thanks for the advice. I did ride the bike briefly with no oil in the primary case and it ran sweet. I’ll try the dipstick option today and see if that cures things. I like the sound of the Pete Kirby clutch. How much does one of them cost and where do I get one. have a good weekend all

I’m covered in oil having had my clutch primary cover off at least 3 times tonight. The problem I have is that everything is fine until I put oil in the case. Then the kickstart doesn’t engage as if the clutch were pulled in. Drain the oil and everything is ok. I’ve adjusted the clutch as per the manual with the springs 3/8” from the face of the plate. Anyone have any advice please as I can’t stomach getting covered in more oil to get the same result. Is there a dry clutch conversion which would save all this and also give some improvements as I’m sure that when I do get this sorted the clutch is more than likely going to slip. Thanks

Thanks for your advice folks. I had a play with the needle and have got close to a goo set up. I raised the needle a notch and it ran much better, raised again and it was worse so I reckon somewhere in between any be perfect. I’ll give it a go for now and tinker once it’s been competed, whenever that may be. I built this bike for the Somerton 2 day trial in June but alas looks like that may be off.

Hi. This is a ‘fit and go’ job from Meridan Off-road, however it’s never as easy as that is it. Jets are pilots 22.5 mains 100 needle 4D20 middle posn, 3 slide 2.0 I’ll read the Amal manuals tonight, as you suggest, and yes I think it is rich looking at the plug. This is the first Cub I’ve ridden since I was 9 ( Mum has one), and it’s a project my Dad started 45 years ago and didn’t finish before he died. From the promising start made this week getting it going after an extensive refit, it feels like a lovely balanced bike.