rockheadrumple

Here's my TR77, I bought it when it was maybe 8 months old? In this pic I have already made short work of ruining the tank and also the original bright orange Girlings have been bent beyond repair! Iposted tis pic once and almost everyone told me that the frame should have been black and that someone must have painted it. That clearly wasn't the case! Regardless, happy days!!!

Paul Davies at Cambstrialscentre.com, John Cane at TYTrials.co.uk, Dave Renham at inmotiontrials.com all UK based. For some harder to get parts I used Partzilla.com, US based. Regards - Mark

Hi, I thought the same thing when I disassembled my forks for re- chroming. I called the chroming shop and they knew all about this, apparently very common. I sent them off and they came back perfect. The company was Rad Hard Chrome in Brisbane Australia. Cheers

Very good, had me for a bit there, I thought you had unlocked the secret!!!!

7 rounds for the WTC? F1 is trying to extend the championship and we are contracting... Has the world gone mad? I don't really know the rules but it seems to me that the current rules have bred a kind of super rider that 0.01% of us can aspire to... This WTC is so far removed from the grass roots of the sport. Myself as an also ran rode in the same trial as Bernie Schreiber in the 80's .. We could relate to the severity of the sections and fail suitably. These days we need to actually need to return to work after the weekend event. So why has the WTC come down to 7 rounds....I guess it's all about money..... So yes, the world has gone mad!!!!!

Hi Sam, the RD350 inlet is straight through rather than the "round the corner" standard item. I just had to remove a couple of rubber stubs that were in the way. I think the use of the WES system and OKO carb allow it to fit easily. I used the stock airbox but opened out the top cover as far as I could. The original boot wouldn't fit the OKO, so I had to improvise using a cut down rubber plumbing fitting at the OKO end and a length of that flexible aluminium auto intake pipe, actually turned out ok. Cheers - Mark

After doing a faithful restore of a UK spec 76 TY175, I had some parts left over....10 years later, another one is saved/created! It actually rides very nicely, OKO carb, Boyesen reeds, RD350 inlet rubber, WES exhaust system, Miller footrest kit, Marcus Rex ignition system, took as much off the flywheel as I dared, NJB Ultimate shocks. Finished now but I just loved the tinkering, even though it took so long!

Thanks Thai, I love what Paul is doing at CTC but still got to get parts to Australia.... I rescued this bike from the wreckers and just want to make it rideable, so looking for a cheap way out locally, hence the rim question.

Hi All, I'm trying bring my Pinky back to life and both rims have corroded beyond repair from within. I've located and replaced the front with no issues but my question is around the rear and the Z spokes. Will a standard 32 hole MX drilling rim be ok, such as fitted to Honda CRF250 circa 2009? Or does the rim need a specific drilling for the Z spokes? Thanks, Mark - Perth, Australia

I did think that was a possibility, all the original plates were within spec according to the manual, but I bought new plates anyway, no difference. I also wondered about the position of the clutch basket but the wear marks on the primary drive gears all match up. I'm at a loss, ready to grind!!!!!

I have 5 fibre friction plates and 4 steel plates as per the manual. I have 2 rods, both at 122mm, so a small difference there. I believe earlier models didn't use a ball so I guess the rod would have been longer. The 1W1 number came from the 1978 TY175 manual and is for rod and ball. There is another post on TC (below) with exactly the same issue but no resolution was ever posted. Looks like I may have to start grinding!

I have been building a TY175 from bits and pieces left over from a previous restoration. I have an issue with the clutch. If I assemble with the ball between the clutch rods, there is no free play in the mechanism at all and the outer pressure plate is clearly not seating nicely on the last friction plate, being held off by the mushroom rod. If I remove the ball, there is heaps of free play, even with the eccentric adjuster set to max and the clutch only just disengages and will surely drag. The clutch rod and ball were original Yamaha part No, 1W1-16357-00-00. Rod is 122mm, ball is 4.75mm and mushroom rod is 62.4mm. Am I missing something here? I have a spare rod and am tempted to grind a few mm off but would be a last resort. Any advice much appreciated! Mark - Perth, Australia

Whole heartedly agree, I'm in Perth Australia and just purchased TY175 WES system, fast and reasonable delivery too.

I had the same issue with a TY175, bottom bearing all good but top sat proud by maybe 3mm? Too hard to get a refund, I just used the original setup at the top end. Cheers

Best wishes to Len, he never knew me but I always looked up to him. I remember him on the Gollner Yellow Peril Kawasaki and later on a Montesa 349...Absolute mud master in the SE centre. Hang in there Len..