If all else fails how about chemical metal, it will sand up good when wet and i assume would be harder wearing than nail varnish, but if nail varnish works, excellent and you have enough left over to become a goth
Be sure to buy your friend a beer or two after all has been sorted.
Hee hee, yep i will do, iv'e allready bought him a new chain tensioner as his one was worn out and a irridium plug as a start, but yeah i owe him a couple of pints too and maybe a couple for me lol
yes it's kinda frustrating i think electric problems are the worst, give me a broke gear lever or worn bearings any day lol.
Picking it up as i go along, thing is if i get it fixed then after a while i'll probably forget everything I've learned so far, I've got a mind like Homer Simpson
I called WCW today and told him my findings and he also said it has probably been the pick up all along and to send it back and they will replace it, as it should definitely be getting at least 0.5v AC, i must admit they are being helpful so far rather than just fobbing me off. I hope it's the pickup because i really don't want to bother my mate as it's bit of an ask to tear his bike apart although he is willing especially as we have already had it apart before.
I googled my multimeter and found i did have it on the wrong setting. It should have been v~ so i set it to this and i got from 10.5 up to 30 v between the two blue's depending how feircly you kick the kick starter so i assume thats a good thing, but on the red and green where i was supposed to get 0.05v i was only getting 0.01v or 0.00v if you wiggled the wire's going into the stator casing, so i'm assuming perhaps the pick up is at fault and not generating enough to do it's job. Thats what i hope anyway. I guess a call to WCW will confirm that.
Hi gjbiker, thanks for your comments, very appreciated.
Well i phoned WCW and they said " perhaps my CDI was weak before and now the stator has been rewound the extra current may have fried the capacitor in it" ??????????????
Now i didn't think of it at the time as i'm no sparky, all this ohms etc is a steep learning curve to me. But surely the amount of current coming from the stator would be irrelevant as it would go through a regulator wouldn't it??? i'm not sure. It's hard to keep up with someone almost talking a foreign language on the other end of the phone.
They didn't actually say what problem they found and i was that delighted thinking all was cured i never asked.
We never tried my stator on my mate's bike as we had swapped everything else and once it finally fired up with his stator we assumed yup thats the cause as the symptoms were showing to wards that anyway, in hindsight that would have been a good idea to tried mine on his, and yes he is a very good and patient mate, i called him today to tell him my findings and he is up, for again swapping stators just to confirm 100% thats where the problem lies.
WCW told me to test the stator and pick up by setting my multimeter to AC and i should get approx 10.5v across the two blues which would indicate that is fine and also i should get 0.5v across the red and green whilst kicking her over and if i got nothing that would be a faulty pick up. So i did these tests tonight and i got approx 10.5v with the two blues but nothing across the red and green, How ever my digital multimeter seems to have a mind of it's own so i did these tests with my other one which is a basic one with a needle. I used my digital one for the ohms as i know how to check that.I am going to take my digital one in to work to get one of the engineers to confirm i have it on the correct setting for the AC and its working properly. It has no distint AC and DC setting and i have lost the book it came with a few years back. All though the basic one has DC on one side and AC on the other.
But all in i think it seems a bit weird that there was a weak spark and now nothing, i may be wrong but it seems to me WCW has either not fixed the problem correctly or in the process made a new one as i cant see how apart from a ohms test they could test it.
Oh and while i was at it i phoned haven trials sport just to find out what price a new stator would be and i'll just say Expensive but what a helpfull guy i wish all my calls to people about various things would be as nice. Real good customer service i cant praise them enough at the moment
Well stator arrived today, put it all back together carefully and NOTHING not even a faint spark now, Getting 100ohms on the red and green and now 33ohms on the dark and light blue but no spark at all, GUTTED thought that was it going to be sorted. Guess i'll have to phone the company that rewound it. I've had it apart and together again over and over again tonight making sure i've not missed anything simple but every thing is connected.
Sent off the stator to West country windings and they called to say they had found the fault and have sent it off in the post back to me, perhaps tommorow i will get it back.
And Just to say i ordered a few woodruff keys to replace the old one when i put the flywheel back on and the kind guy's at Haven trials sport sent me 6 and only charged me for two, i know its just small change but it's the fact that they did which is qiute nice, so i'll be dealing with them again, a big thumbs up to them
So we swapped stator's over and instantly a MASSIVE difference in spark, nice big healthy blue spark. Got her together and she fired second kick and that was without choke
Any recommendations as to where to get it rewound, i was thinking about Bradford ignitions in Spain i read on here somewhere someone said they were good and to avoid West country windings.
while i'm waiting for it i have already cleaned the flaking paint off inside the casing where the fly wheel sits, would silver Hammerite be okay to give it a freshen up, i know its not seen once the cover is back on but it would be fine to slow down any corrosion creeping back in, obviously i wouldn't paint where the sator bolts on.
Also i seen on here someone vented the cover with a pipe up under the fuel tank, Whats the benefit of this, is this to aid heat loss or just to cut down on condensation
Stator looked okay and behind it was nice and shiney but i cleaned it anyway, still poor spark
Swapped both little black boxes and still poor spark (one up at the headstock and the other screwed on to the radiator )
got the irridium plug put that in and still poor spark
Done before but again swapped coil and still poor spark
although both stators were getting the same ohms reading were going to swap stators tommorow
I put the flywheel back on after cleaning behind the stator and torqued it up to 40nm but that seemed a bit weedy i would have expected alot more "heave" on the crankshaft bolt, could someone confirm the torque for that bolt please
its an oldish compresion gauge and the type you have to push in place and hold so it's 2 man job, i held it and my dad kicked her over twice but i doubt he held the throttle open, i'll give it another go and see if we get a better reading. Iv'e been decribing the bike problems to various mechanics that work at the firm i work for and all them say iv'e done everything they would have done and have no suggestions.
So if the flywheel being removed dosn't shine a light on anything i think my only option is then to have the stator rewound just to rule it out.
Okay, i did a compresion test and it came out okay, right at the top of the green bar. She was reading 148 psi so i'm guessing thats okay, i will post up my findings at the weekend to see what condition conponents are in behind the flywheel.
You said that the plug was dry after a lot of kicking, sounds like you are not getting any fuel in.
have you checked compression or leaking gaskets, it could even be crank seals.
Have you looked at the reeds(assuming they have reeds).
To me it doesnt sound like elctrical.
TLTEL
Oh forgot to mention it got new reeds less than a year ago although i have had the reed block out and checked and they were still good.
I do have a compresion gauge somewhere i will dig it out and do a proper check.
Just noticed on the haven trials sport web page for parts it looks like the seal would have to go in by splitting the cases if so i wont go that far yet,
Hi guy's, thanks so far. yes your right Jon, it would be better if it just did not start at all at least then it might have been solved easier.
I'm retaking my bike back to my mate who has the same model that we tested the different components on, at the weekend, he also has the correct flywheel puller so we will take it off and have a look and see if that sheds any light this coming weekend.
I'm really stumped though as to whether its fuel or spark, when i did get it started by heating the plug it was a bit lumpy as i eased of the choke, i had to fiddle the choke lever off and on to keep her running till she was warm enough to run with out, then i took her for a run around the field and i reckon she would have just kept running as long as i wanted once it was going, eventually i got off and just let her idle then after a minute or so she just petered out then would not restart again no matter how many kicks i gave it, i even try'd bumping her but nothing.
Which makes me think surly if it was the carb it would not run at all.
But then the same goes for the spark although by heating the plug is that somehow helping the spark.
I'm no expert but the symptoms of her getting worse each time i was out kinda points to the stator to me but then i was getting the same ohms as my mates.
From what i can see pointing a torch into the two holes on the flywheel and rotating it i cannot visually see any scorched or obvious defective parts on the copper windings. Perhaps when the flywheel is off it may reveal something.
Quick question though, seeing as the flywheel and stator is coming off regardless would it be worth while changing the crank seal or should i just leave that alone and concentrate on getting her running again.
I have the multi function kill switch that does indicators lights horn etc but i have ordered a simple push button kill switch to do away with the lights etc but i took the one on at the moment apart and checked for corrosion but it all seemed fine i sprayed contact cleaner in anyway and blew compressed air into it.
I have the Kokusan v1 system on mine i think she may be a 2002 sold in 2003 with 2003 graphics.
I haven't taken the flywheel off yet although what paint i can see around the flywheel inside is quite flaky, i don't have a flywheel puller yet but i will order one tonight.
My friend reckoned the fly wheel was still in the correct position by setting her to top dead center by using a probe in the plug hole and checking the position of the flywheel.
And as he got the exact same ohms as me i assumed the stator was functioning properly although on the pick up i was only getting 20 ohms when cold but approx 25 when warm, but so was his.
If i remove the flywheel or should i say when i remove the flywheel, will i need a new woodruff key and flywheel bolt also when putting the fly wheel back on after work has been done is it worthwhile heating the flywheel up in the oven a little to assist it going on the shaft better.
I was going to order a either platinum or iridium plug too, i tried getting one here but no one stocked it.
thanks for the reply tt5th, i'll try and get the stator rewound, i called motoplat on satarday but the fellow who deals with the stators is on holiday for 10 days so i'll try him again later according to there web page they deal with trials stators so that's prbably my best place to go, i did read on here to avoid west country windings and motoplat seem to have a fixed price, she's got the full lighting kit on her from new but i think i'm going to take all that off to simplify things.
Hi guy's, i'll try and keep this as short as possible. The bike which is a 2003 250 txt pro has been getting more difficult to start when warm after you have switched it off for a few minutes. Then on her last outing she just cut out altogether and after everyone there having ago at starting her the kick starter snapped off, in the middle of nowhere.
Got a new kick start on and now she wont start at all even when cold.
My checks so far are New plug New HT cap New HT lead cleaned carb thoroughly although it was spotless any way fuel flows freely from tank, so the breathers are fine.
Looking at the spark it's not too strong looking but is blue, so i tested the resistance on the stator wires and got 100 ohms when it should be 99-99.9 and 20 ohms when it should be 26.1 on the blue wire's so i suspected the stator. A Friend has the same bike so yesterday we tested his wire's and got the same results and his bike runs great. So we put my CDI on his and his started and ran fine. We put his coil on mine and mine still wouldn't start. It did briefly start for a minute or so with my own parts and while it was warm we got 25 ohms at the blue wire's
I tried every thing i could think of and nothing makes any difference, i did however get her to start today by heating the spark plug with a blow torch then quickly screwing it in getting burnt fingers in the process and she seemed to run okay, but as soon as you turn her off she wont start again.
when she wont start after ALOT of kick starting the plug still seems dry.
So where do i go from here, any suggestions apart from scrapping her lol
Could the carb or the stator be faulty although they both seem fine, iv'e cleaned everything on the carb i thinks its probably cleaner than it was when it left the factory.
There's no corrosion on any connectors at all so i can rule that out
Stator rewind?
New carb?
New coil?
All three... it starts getting expensive pretty quick
Thanks guy's, that's excactly what happened the top cap had come off i think as it was missing, and it's broken where you described. Probably my fault as i took it apart a while ago to replace one of the o rings and lube it all up. so it's probably worked it's self loose
Hey Rich T, ha ha yes there not cheap, how ever i am ! lol no seriously for the short term i may get it welded until i can get a new one ordered, i think they retail around the
What a day, way out riding in the middle of nowhere, literally. Over huge hills, through marshy bogs etc when the bike conked out in the middle of nowhere about as far from civilization as possible in Shetland. Engine just died and refused to start (stator problems) i think and to top it off with all the kicking on the kick starter the bugger snapped off and took a big chunk out of my carbon lookalike frame protector at the same time, BIG BOO eventually got the bike bump started just as it started to rain.
What a day. Still no point in getting mad about it lol
Repair For Black Alloy Forks
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If all else fails how about chemical metal, it will sand up good when wet and i assume would be harder wearing than nail varnish, but if nail varnish works, excellent and you have enough left over to become a goth