I gather you have now sorted the problem but as a matter of interest, try running without the filter to see if there is further improvement. I ran my cub with the 1/2 moon type filter and it was too restrictive (the stub dia.on the outlet was too small).It revved out fully without a filter and also with a K&N fitted.
I gave Talon a call today and they couldn't find it in their latest catalogue, do you know if this was a special, do you have a product id for sproket?
The reference number is TG 452 (can`t remember if this includes number of teeth but Talon will know.) This is for a GB gearbox , not a Gp as you have described. ( do you mean CP or GB ?)
A friend wanted to register with TC but firstly had trouble finding where registration was explained and then found that the submitted e-mail address would not be accepted. Could someone please explain how to register, it`s not very clear.
Talon Engineering made them for Serco but they required a separate spacer. I got him to order some 520 sprockets to the same dimensions as a standard cub one - don`t know if Talon still do them.
Was it rich throughout the whole range or a particular bit.
Can't think why it should suddenly go rich but worth checking the float level anyway. The best setting is when the top of the float is approx. 2 mm below the top of the bowl with the float needle fully seated.( Press on the float tang, not the needle, and make sure the float pin does not move up out of its seat.)
Have you got the quadrant the right way round - when correct it the boss on the end should line up with the window in the inner cover. It is then simply a case of inserting the pin through the holes ( a bit of jiggling will be necessary ) making sure that the small hole in the pin is in line with the one in the camplate and then install the split pin.
Assuming you have a 14 tooth gearbox sprocket, if you require a 1st gear overall ratio of say 30:1 then calculate what size engine sprocket you need and get one made using the spline from your existing welded to a machined blank. Alternatively. see what Talon Engineering can do for you.
You need a length of clutch/brake inner cable, two pear nipples, a M8 alloy set screw 50mm long and a fitting to suit your brake lever.
Cut the head off the screw and then drill along the center to suit the cable diameter (best done on a lathe ) Thread the cable through the screw and fix the nipples and fitting. I use a M8 wing nut to adjust but the choice is yours. I have also covered the cable with shrink fit plastic sleeving to stop wear and rusting but this must be fitted before the last nipple is fitted
Does anybody know who supplies heat resistant material to fix to an aluminium exhaust heat shield. Something like the adhesive foil backed type fitted to some carbon fibre shields would do nicely but other types would be of interest.
I have a 622 which I have used on a 250 cub and currently on a 410 ajs. It has 2 stroke jetting and needle and runs perfectly on either bike. On the cub I use a 110 main jet and a 140 on the ajs. I also ran a 140 on my 500 ariel so I would suggest you run smaller than this on a 250 (try a 120). Other settings are 106 needle jet, no 3 slide, needle in middle.
I ruined a pair of Gaernes (natural finish ) using neatsfoot oil - I got carried away with the application and eventually it rotted the leather - should be ok on chromed leather.
I ruined a pair of Gaernes (natural finish ) using neatsfoot oil - I got carried away with the application and eventually it rotted the leather - should be ok on chromed leather.
As you will see from your chart, a reduction of 1 tooth on the front is roughly equivalent to an increase of 4 teeth on the rear. Before you proceed, consider costs ( a front sprocket is cheaper than a rear ) and bear in mind that a larger rear may mean adding links to the chain ( it is easier to shorten a chain ). Having said that it is best practice to fit a new chain with new sprockets anyway.
If you look at a tubeless rim there is a small lip which stops the tyre from coming off the rim ( this is also the reason for the loud pop when the tyre is seated ) To convert a tube type rim to tubeless try welding a small lip around the rim ( a full weld run should not be necessary ) or use a grinder to create one ( tedious and not ideal )
In addition to Stickinthemud's reply, another solution is to either obtain oversize shafts (Serco used to do them ) or get yours increased in dia. by having them chromed ( only chrome the worn bits ). To cure the leaking problem, I shortened the shaft by 3mm and cut a 1mm slot in the end - tighten the banjo whilst holding the shaft with a screwdtriver then tap in a 3mm thick aluminium end cap ( use loctite as well if you want )
I might be having a 'senior' moment but I cannot find any reference to "... or any part of the machine (with exception of tyres or sump shield )" under TSR 22 DEFINITIONS - Footing
Further to my recent report of a stolen bike in W Yorks. be on the look out for a van (make unknown) with reg no. DF 54 MWO. This van was seen being loaded with a trials bike (probably mine) but the current owner is not registered with DVLA (surprise). The police are trying to trace the vehicle so contact them if you see it.
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A stop light is also required but many testing stations either ignore this one or don`t realise it is a requirement.