Jump to content

bigmike1961

Members
  • Posts

    229
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by bigmike1961
 
 
  1. Heres another photo!

    It's got chrome (well they used to be) rims, 17" rear and a 21" front and rather spindly forks 30mm I think.

    Oh and the most shot front wheel bearings I've ever seem - 3/4" lateral play at the rim :thumbup:

    The motor has got to go - flea bay so an ID of the engine would be very helpful.

    post-8876-1274553960.jpg

  2. Thanks for the input, I ended up riding the scorpa Sunday, bit of practice for the club trial next Sunday. Used ATF in the forks. Does changing the quantity of oil slightly change the damping characteristics or blow the fork seals out?

  3. Well after a quick test run up and down the drive it's much better without the extra springs in the forks, tempted to ride this weekend's RRND beginners trial on it. First outing with the 185 engine in it. :rotfl:

  4. Decided to change the oil in the front forks, what a pain to get the top spring seat out. Not a screw fitting but held in with a small internal circlip. Finally managed to extract this and the spring seat was fired across the garage with scary force - nearly took my finger off! Finally found all the missing parts, there were four small top springs whereas the Clymer Manual shows two - one each side. Is this an attempt to increase the spring rate? Was a former owner a sumo wrestler?

    Anyway I rebuilt with only one small spring each side, the bike seems to ride lower at the front end, before the forks were topped out during riding between sections.

    Was fitting two springs some sort of upgrade modification?

    What upgrades are done to Tl 125 forks if any? :rotfl:

  5. David Silver Spares worked out the cable needed from the engine number.

    However the sparks suddenly disappeared! Had a fiddle around with the pulse generator in the head and with the cover off it was generating sparks at the plug like a very sparky thing. Put the cover back on and nothing - not a sign of a spark. ordered a new pulse generator as the wiring was very tired, must be shorting out when the cover is on. I'll have to get the engine running before looking further at the gear selection problem. Thanks for the advice.

  6. Thanks, I'll try there first, The clutch cable seemed a bit dodgy (stretched) and I'm trying to work out the year for the engine to order a new one. The clutch plates were firmly stuck to start with when I first rode it but freed off with a bit of a bang so the clutch area was my first port of call.

  7. Over the past few months I've dropped an XL185 motor in aTL125. Seemed fine on the first test run. Not so happy first and second gear don't always seem to engage when the engine is running,seems to engage but when the clutch is let out nothing - no drive?

    Third gear is fine and the engine seem to pull very well.

    Any suggestions gratefully received.

    Thanks

  8. Now not so happy First and second gear don't always seem to engage when the engine is running,seems to engage but when the clutch is let out nothing - no drive?

    Any suggestions gratefully received.

  9. Yes the disk should be slightly loose. They are called floating disks as the rotors are allowed to move to center in the caliper. The bolts are already tight. If you try to tighten them further to stop the rotor from moving they will strip. Sorry you had to bung one up to find that out.

    The bolt head stripped while I was loosening it!!

    It's still tight so I'll leave well alone

  10. I'm experiencing a similar problem - the disc seems very slightly loose - gave it a tweek and the allen head rounded out. Why are these things made form material with about as much structural integrity as squeezed together tin foil?

    Should there be any play on the disc?

    Might some localized heat get the bolts out?

 
×
  • Create New...