bigmike1961

Sorted - intermittent break in the voltage supply wire. Couldn't see the wood for the trees last night.

HI, this is an old thread but... just bought a scorpa myself... fan runs form a battery, won't rum with a jumper across the blue and white wires that go to the thermostat, my other scorpa runs fine like this has anyone got a writing diagram? Spent hours with a multimeter and I'm baffled to say the least.

I got my tubeless rear rim anodised and laced onto the hub at Sids Wheels, he did a brilliant job, he's of FB or comes up if you google him. I used a Morad rim, new.

That's a good idea, I could compare the Scorpa & TLR.

Splendid, that was exactly the info I was looking for. I'll take some in progress pictures myself when I get on with altering the rake angle.

Splendid, that was exactly the info I was looking for. I'll take some in progress pictures myself when I get on with altering the rake angle.

OK , Thanks Bashplate.How difficult was altering the steering head angle? I'm a reasonable welder, I've already done the foot pegs. 1" down and back. I was just trying to see what the end result should look like.

Resurrecting an old post. I'm now the owner of a TLR200 and am looking to modify the steering head angle, Have you still got the photos of the modifications you made? would you mind sharing them again?

I've found this by bashpalte from 2013 Hi, I removed the steering lockstep endplate at the bottom of the steering head as it was all bent up allowing the forks to hit the tank. I then cut right through the top tube about an inch back from the steering head and then warmed the tube that runs down to the front of the motor. This let me move the front wheel back until it 'looked right', and it had opened up the cut in the top tube to about 6mm.Welded some steel into the gap, refitted a strengthened lock stop plate and job done.Recon it steepened things up by about 2 degrees,steers great around the garden....will be trials riding tomorrow. and this Ok, here's a few pictures of my effort.Steering tweeted footrests moved, and some new shocks, bars and levers and some new cables, are the latest additions, plus frame repaint....only brushed so not blemish free, but much better than it was. Just got to do tank and seat paint when I get time. Hoping to get to the trial tomorrow to see how she rides but sadly none of the pictures work. It's from this post on page 4. How did the TLR ride bashplate with the modifications? Do you still have the pictures of what you did and would you mind reposting them?

Does the tube you don't cut bend OK? I was wondering it cutting and opening the gap on the top tube would pull the down tube out of alignment and prevent the engine going back in! Would you need to heat the tube that doesn't get cut? have you any in progress pics of what you did jimmyl?

Thanks for the replies. Good to know about the parallel yokes and clutch, I've heard that opening a 6mm gap in the top tube by cutting near the head stock and pulling the forks in is the way to go but don't want to ruin the frame. My welding is good.

Has anyone got any pictures of the frame around the head stock whose had this sort of work done to a TLR 200?

Had another look, there is one there after all! It doesn't have anything to do with holding on the chain guard though.

Finally had a look at my one - no tab at all - not much help!

Thanks bashpalte, so a "standard" pack will be long enough.

Rebuilding my TLR, I'm going for a 48 tooth rear sprocket & 10 tooth front sprocket, what length of 520 chain will I need? How many links anyone?

You can adjust the timing I believe but can't find the link - think it was on the Hell Team website but can't see it now. Retarded was for mud and advanced gave the engine more snap for rocks. British ones came set for mud I believe.

I'll have a look at mine tomorrow, it was unmolested when I bought it last December - direct import from Japan.

Thanks for the advice everyone, I was hoping it would be something simple. I'll continue my rebuild, to test the repositioned foot pegs and then when I strip it back down for frame painting I'll have a look at the kick start problem.

That's what I didn't want to hear!

It had the wrong kick start on when I got the bike - no stop on the knuckle. Hoping that this hasn't caused the problem. I will check that nothing external is catching, hadn't thought of that.

Occasionally the kick start doesn't return when kicking he engine over, other times it jams, any ideas or do I need to have the clutch cover off? Will I need to have the engine out of the frame?

Brilliant!

I'm refurbishing a TLR at the moment and was wondering if the battery was necessary to run the lights & horn? If it's not then the brackets can go.

Brilliant, wish I could do stuff like that!