bigmike1961

Any updates? Solutions?

What questions do you have about set-up?

Live & learn Happy riding

I can do a trial on about 2 or 3 litres of fuel, no idea what that is in miles though, we usually run 5 laps of 8 sections. My choke lever is quite stiff too. Plug needs to be cleaned after every other trial stalls unexpectedly otherwise.

Good to know you fixed it, my first Trials bike was a KT. Should never have sold it.

Any luck so far

That's not helpful Try calling Birketts http://birkettmotosportukltd.co.uk/

Check the fuel line before tearing into the carb again, is it pinched/kinked? Does fuel flow from the pipe when disconnected at the carb end? Is the float height correct? Is the float in the right way up? Be careful with compressed air - I once collapsed a float with a poorly conceived plan to blow out the float valve without disassembly by directing air down the fuel line. 80 psi WILL collapse the floats and they won't ...well float so well , or stop fuel flowing into the carb, which will flood, Etc.etc Have fun.

http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/41544-sy-250-with-sticky-choke-plunger/

Stick it in 4th or 5th plug out spin the engine by turning the back wheel by hand. Easier to see the spark. Failing that check all the connections, wires etc.

Does this mean the flooding is sorted from your other thread http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/41533-rendezvous-with-french-mistress/ might the problems be related? I'd check the carb very carefully - float valve & float, check for dirt scoring etc.

If the fan is working properly it won't do that. It should kick in when the coolant gets too hot and turn off again when the fan's done it's job. Either the thermostat is bad, the connections are dirty on the thermostat or elsewhere, or the wiring is bad somewhere. On my scorpa there is a connection under the seat, 3 wires in with a white connector, the two outer wires are connected by a simple loop, that connection was poor - I ended up bending the contacts to ensure good continuity. If the coolant gets too hot it will boil. You should have a black plastic tube from the top of the rad cap to take overflow away down to the bash plate area. I have the pipe pointing outwards to make the escaping steam obvious. I carry a small jumper wire to bypass the thermostat and have the fan permanently on incase he thermostat doesn't cut in. Hope this helps.

At least it's single cylinder

What's the standard travel on a TY 250 front fork?

My old TL used to attract the same sort of attention too.

Lucky I'm not the highest bidder then

So... what's it really worth then?

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=251033048214&ssPageName=ADME:X:RTQ:GB:1123#ht_500wt_1106 Any ideas on what the forks might be off of? Present owner claims it rides fine! They look overly long to me, very chopperish, suspect the steering might be rather lazy.

What's the down side of overfilling? Is there a down side? Anyone?

Pictures, we need pictures

looks good.

Picture.... we need a picture

Is the float valve leaking? Is the TLM back from the bike doc? Any diagnosis?

When it won't go after the 6th kick is there still a spark? (cdi good) Is the wiring all in good condition? ( once had terrible trouble with an XL185 engine because the pulse generator wire was worn.) What is the plug like - wet with fuel or dry? ( over rich mixture ) What happens if you turn the fuel off, take the plug out & spin the engine over to clear any excess fuel? Will it start again? In the opposite direction:- Is fuel actually getting to the carb in sufficient quantities? (blocked fuel line, filter or fuel tap) Take the fuel lie off the carb and make sure the fuel floods out with the fuel tap open.

Saw this is Classic Military Vehicle, might help. http://www.frost.co.uk/protect-your-vehicle-against-ethanol