bobtlr Posted January 29, 2007 Report Share Posted January 29, 2007 hey is there someone with any exerience whit the heavy flywheel convertion for a pro? I would like the bike to be less agressive and more gripping in the wet stuff . i have it on my bike now (jtr 250) and its great but im planning to buy me a pro now i also having doubts 250- 280-300 ? thanks, bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peterb Posted January 29, 2007 Report Share Posted January 29, 2007 Hello Bob, I am on my second 300 Gas Gas, fitted with the Hebo 750 gram flywheel weight. It's an 06 Raga 300 which has a far sharper power delivery than my previous 04 model. Both bikes benefit from the extra weight, much more controllable going up rocky rivers and easier to ride in the wet. I haven't tried a 250 PRO or earlier model Gasser with the extra weight and would not have thought this was necessary. I've been riding a long time and like a more controllable power delivery, not something snappy. From the sound of it, you may be best off riding the 250 PRO, the 280 is a bit sharp in power delivery and the 300 just keeps on pulling and can get a rider in trouble. The 250 grips real well and is the easiest bike of the three to ride. Try it standard at first then fit the extra weight if you feel this would help. Make sure you have a 10T gearbox sprocket. Knowing what area you ride in would help. I'm in NZ where the trials are similar to up north in the UK, except much warmer! Lots of rocks, banks, tree roots but no moors. Very slippy in the winter. Bye, Peter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobtlr Posted January 29, 2007 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2007 hey tnx for the help people told me also i should go for the 250 or the 300 (but not the raga version) as the 280 is quite agressive i live in belgium so lots of mud, and lose surface (and rocks ans clims out of rivers and so in bilstain ( was the practice ground of Eddy Lejeune)) i am used to a honda tlr and a bultaco 350 so i want a bike that is controlebe on the trotlle and that has a lot of steam in low revs whitout being agressive greets bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grib Posted January 30, 2007 Report Share Posted January 30, 2007 I have the flywheel weight fitted to my 250 pro along with a 10T front sprocket and a slow action throttle, all three mods have improved low speed control for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brutus Posted February 8, 2007 Report Share Posted February 8, 2007 Can anyone tell me if there's a flywheelweight for the 2001 TXT 280? I also find it too agressive for me and like to make it more controllable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peterb Posted February 8, 2007 Report Share Posted February 8, 2007 Hello Brutus, I am not aware of any heavy flywheel kits for the older motors. You can always retard the ignition for softer low end power (Move the stator plate anti clockwise approx 1mm after marking the original position first). Also, some lads fit extra base gaskets in to soften the compression, you could try fitting an extra 0.5mm thick gasket. Another usefull mod I used to do was to use a D34 needle in the DellOrto carburettor. The standard needle is a D36, the D34 is a little richer at low revs and is my needle of choice for all the bigger Gas Gas motors, 330, 321. It helps with low end control. Bye, Peter B. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brutus Posted February 9, 2007 Report Share Posted February 9, 2007 Thanks Peter, But which mod. would you start with, retarding the ignition? grtz, Bert Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peterb Posted February 9, 2007 Report Share Posted February 9, 2007 Hello Bert, Yes, the easiest thing to do is to retard the ignition. I would also go ahead with the D34 needle too. Good luck, Peter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brutus Posted February 10, 2007 Report Share Posted February 10, 2007 Do I need to take the flywheel off (any holes in it?) to do the ignitionjob? I've never had the cover off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peterb Posted February 12, 2007 Report Share Posted February 12, 2007 Hello Bert, Yes you have to remove the flywheel to get to the stator plate. You also need a specific flywheel puller to remove the flywheel. The centre nut is a conventional right hand thread. Be sure to locate the crank woodruff key correctly when refitting the flywheel. good luck, Peter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brutus Posted February 13, 2007 Report Share Posted February 13, 2007 Hi Peter, Today I borrowed a flywheel puller from our local GG-dealer so I could try some different settings. First thing I noticed was that the previous owner probably tried some things to because there was allready a marking on the plate and housing! First I tried the 1mm retard as you suggested but the bike became even more powerfull (maybe the previous owner put it to early!) so I went for 3mm retard but the effect was not dramatic so I left it at the 3mm later and moved on to the needle. Instead of the d34 you suggested (My GG-dealer didn't have one on stock) I had a look at the setting of the original D36 which was on the lowest position so I moved it up one slot. This had more effect than changing the ignitiontiming so I moved the needle one more step up and now you can feel quite a difference! It's still very powerfull but less nervous at the bottom. So I'll try it this weekend and see how it goes. Do I have to do something with the mixturescrew now I have changed the needlesetting? Thanks for so far, Bert Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peterb Posted February 14, 2007 Report Share Posted February 14, 2007 Hi Bert, Are you sure that you moved the stator plate ANTI clockwise from the original mark (To the left)? If you are happy with the ignition timing then leave it where it is. The standard clip setting on the D36 needle is the second clip position from the bottom, which is fine in most cases. The lowest position would give the most fuel rich condition. You can tune in the low end carburation with the pilot screw, which on this carb works on the fuel, not the air so that turning in the screw weakens the mixture (less fuel). Start with this screw turned fully in then unscrew 4 and a half turns and adjust from this point till it feels good for you. Bye, Peter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brutus Posted February 14, 2007 Report Share Posted February 14, 2007 Hi Peter, Yes I'm a 100% sure that I rotated the plate the right direction, I even gave the kickstarter a push to see what direction the cranck is turning because I know there are engines that turn backwards! So I was puzzled a bit as well . So I'll first give this new setup a try before altering more settings. Bye, Bert Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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