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240 Pipe Removal?


frank
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Recently picked up a nice 240. I got it running pretty well after finding the needle mounted over the slide clip instead of under it. I decided to strip it and do a good clean up including burning out the pipe. I have tried all I can think of but I can't figure out how to get the pipe out of the frame. After taking off the springs, air box, clutch cable and rear mud guard I can't get it out! It's loose but I can't get it out, too little clearance. I even dropped the front engine mounts to get clearance. Do you have to take the head off to slide it out? Even tried to remove it backwards through the frame.

Also, are carb to airbox boots available, I don't trust mine. Anyone know what the crankshaft seal sizes are? Thought I'd freshen them to be on the safe side. I understand they can be replaced in the frame w/o splitting the cases.

Any help appreciated.

Frank

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If your engine is a genuine 240 twinshock, then it is not possible to fit both oilseals in situ. Only large clutch, straight cut primary drive 212cc engines, have this facility, 241 onwards.

Edited by ask greeves
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yep, had forgotten that. The clutch side main bearing is lubed by the gearbox oil on the 240. they stopped this again on the 241...... And Gasgas thought the pro engine was special 20 years later.

Peter, I also have a 240 with Motoplat ignition. Do you rekon this is a late version...seal change in place?

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Later model 240's had motoplat, to replace the dansi, 300's had motoplat, later models had zanusi. The trick setup is the zanusi, but you'll need stator, the heavier 300 flywheel and 300 outer cover. Motoplat work fine, until they go wrong, then being a sealed unit, they are more problem to repair. All forward kick Fantic engines are externally the same dimensions, the interchangeability combined with minimal size and weight makes the overall package perfect for twinshock. The duplex chassis in conjuction with the long swinging arm makes the Fantic the most balance and user friendly twinshock.

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