philthyphil Posted April 30, 2008 Report Share Posted April 30, 2008 Hi the project is started. I'd like to reline the shoes on my 80 tl 320, does anyone know the appox orginal lining thickness? We relign shoes all the time on old cars that are hard to find stuff for, plus we can get various compounds and real fast turn around from the shop we use. Price is good as well and no shipping....lol.....thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pedronicman Posted May 1, 2008 Report Share Posted May 1, 2008 Hi Phil, your 320 uses the same brake shoes front and rear- these are the same shoes as fitted to 200/240 Fantics and other models of the same period using the Grimeca type hubs. I can recommend a very fast supplier of these shoes that is here in the uk. i Know that that they have these shoes in stock and offer a good service too. If you are interested then send me a message Hope this helps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
axulsuv Posted May 1, 2008 Report Share Posted May 1, 2008 (edited) Hi Phil ; The adventure starts again ,heh... I just went out to the shop and measured some lightly used OE. shoes off my fantic and came up w/ about 3.75mm ,give or take abit ! If the shop that relines them for you is close , bring your shoes , wheel and backing plate w/you and I'd (if they are freindly and not swamped !) have them install 4mm linings and then arc them to fit ! oh yeah bring the axle with you to ! But you should be able to get a lining w/much greater contact area than stock ... IMHO ! Glenn Added On Edit !!! I forgot I had a fresh set of ebc shoes stashed away ,so I measured those ... they are just a bit over 4mm by the crude measuring device I have here at home , my micrometers and good calipers are at work in my toolbox ! I should get a cheap but decent set for the home workshop !!! and the ebc pn# is I beleive #841 G ... So anyways if the shop is game maybe start at about 4.5 or 5mm and arc to fit ! Let me know how it works out , as I beleive thats how B&J racing in TN. does their brakeshoes . And don't forget to cut some diagonal grooves in the new linings to help with water removal ... Edited May 1, 2008 by axulsuv Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philthyphil Posted May 2, 2008 Author Report Share Posted May 2, 2008 Thats the kind of info I need. And yes I can take all the stuff to them. They made me new shoes for the rear of my Tiger, and make shoes for tractors and all kinds of industrail equipment. Bascally they can make any kind of brake stuff. I'll measure up my hub, shoes ,backing plate etc. maybe use a bit of clay and guess a bit. 5 mm sounds good looking at what I have now and I can arc them in nice and close. I'll get them to use a nice grippy compound, some of these guys used to do our bike shoes back in the 70's and even made my Bultaco stop. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
axulsuv Posted May 2, 2008 Report Share Posted May 2, 2008 Now Your making me feel OLD !!! Way back in the dark ages when I started to twist a wrench for a source of income . (I actualy was a apprentice at a RR/Jag. dealer)! We used to reline brake shoes on a daily basis , and every set got arced to the drum ... Back then the only time you put on new shoes was if they went metal to metal and destroyed the shoe ! A lost art these days ... But then we used to rebuild carbs , alternaters , ps. pumps and racks too ... Not just bolt on a new part ! These days I spend 75% of my time w/a laptop and scantools pluged into cars diagnoising minor electronic glitches that turn on check engine lights ... OH to be back in the days when 2 downdraft 3bbl. was the most complicated fuel system you ever saw ! Glenn ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philthyphil Posted May 2, 2008 Author Report Share Posted May 2, 2008 When I started working part time in garages in the 60's while in high school, we still rebuilt generators. Did'nt have alternators. And yes we had flatheads and hand lapped the valves. I think one reason we like the cars and bikes of our youth, is that like the times they were much simpler. Tune up was plugs, points, condensor, set the dwell, timing, and adjust the carb. Real hands on stuff.....now its plug in the scan tool and read the code and say WTF now? Thanks for the laughs and mems.....cheers....phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
axulsuv Posted May 2, 2008 Report Share Posted May 2, 2008 (edited) Yeah the good old days...Reminds me of a event about 6 months ago , One of the young men at the dealer iIwork at has a 32 vicky that was hot-rodded in the late 50's. Still has a built flathead and all the correct era peices ! W/ a straight all steel body ! It came out of a garage from under a cover when his wife's grandpa past on. Anyways he got it running and brought it home . But he was telling me one day that he needs to get a generator for it cause it won't charge and turning on the headlights kills the motor ...And alas he was totaly shocked to find out what one would cost !!! So I told him to bring the generator in to work . After Checking the windings and brgs , I had him locate some brushes and brgs. for it and rebuilt it for him , then we went back over to his place and put it on . He was totaly amazed when I polarized it and then cleaned the contacts in the regulator and adjusted it !!! And all the repair cost him was about $25.00 for the parts , When the 'new' one he almost bought would've been in the $600.00 dollar range ! Edited May 2, 2008 by axulsuv Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philthyphil Posted May 12, 2008 Author Report Share Posted May 12, 2008 Shoes are back and look good have not tried them but I think they will work well. Thickness varies from a max of almost 5 to down to near 4 mm. I gave them the wheel, hub shoes springs all etc. So after the lined them they arced it all in. My buddy does enough business with them they just did it for free. I'm going to have to take a case of beer over though the next time I drop in I reckon.....cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philthyphil Posted May 12, 2008 Author Report Share Posted May 12, 2008 I read that post by Greeves about boring out the axel hole in the backing plate. Interesting, the rest of the procedure I was familar with holding on the brake before tighten up the axel nut and brake stay, but the hole expansion was new, think I'll try it.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
axulsuv Posted May 13, 2008 Report Share Posted May 13, 2008 It made a positive change on my fantic ! Glenn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b40rt Posted December 31, 2008 Report Share Posted December 31, 2008 I read that post by Greeves about boring out the axel hole in the backing plate. Interesting, the rest of the procedure I was familar with holding on the brake before tighten up the axel nut and brake stay, but the hole expansion was new, think I'll try it.... Could you tell me where the post you refer to is. Thanks Ross Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philthyphil Posted January 8, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 8, 2009 Sorry about my 'vague' reply, regarding centre hole, I was refering to the hole in the middle of the backplate, where the spindle goes through. Enlarging the hole by 20thou or more, this allows the brake shoes to centralise themselves in the brake drum, allowing maximum contact area. Assemble front wheel assembly into forks, leaving front wheel spindle loose, apply front brake, then tighten front wheel spindle, this centres the shoes in the drum..It's just the inherent design of drum brakes, trying to expand a smaller diameter into a larger diameter, engineers tried to overcome the problems by 'twin' leading shoes, and even quad leading shoe. There's probably room for improvement, by using modern materials, that could deform to accept the diameter of the drum and still retain friction properties, therefore utilising the full swept area (spongy kevlar maybe !). All developement ceased with the introduction of disc brakes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b40rt Posted January 8, 2009 Report Share Posted January 8, 2009 (edited) Thanks PP for info, Alan Whitton has interesting brake plates with floating pivot point, this can be adjusted to compansate for brake wear. Edited January 8, 2009 by B40RT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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