gasgas1 Posted August 31, 2008 Report Share Posted August 31, 2008 hi does anyone know how much gearbox oil i need to put in my 1993 jt 250 & wat grade cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
benz19 Posted August 31, 2008 Report Share Posted August 31, 2008 600cc i beleive and either light gear oil or auto trans fluid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peterb Posted September 1, 2008 Report Share Posted September 1, 2008 Hi there, I usually re-fill with 700 ml of either a mineral 10 weight, or an ATF rated to Dexron III. Dump the oil when hot as any suspended particles can be drained out, rather than letting any foreign matter settle when cold. Don't use any synthetic here. Bye, PeterB. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jse Posted September 1, 2008 Report Share Posted September 1, 2008 Hi there,I usually re-fill with 700 ml of either a mineral 10 weight, or an ATF rated to Dexron III. Dump the oil when hot as any suspended particles can be drained out, rather than letting any foreign matter settle when cold. Don't use any synthetic here. Bye, PeterB. I agree to avoid the synthetics. It's suspected that some synthetics will form an acid when mixed with water/moisture (impossible to avoid, and the gears will really mix things up) and that particular acid attacks the adhesive that bonds the fiber to the steel plate in some clutch packs. I've never had that problem with my bikes, but I've seen delamination in older clutches (I suspect they have changed the formulation of the adhesive in newer ones. It may be that I am faithful to the 5-10 hours max of use, trans oil changes (or after a wet Trial) so that there is much less moisture build-up in my trans. Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jandyb Posted September 1, 2008 Report Share Posted September 1, 2008 I agree to avoid the synthetics. It's suspected that some synthetics will form an acid when mixed with water/moisture (impossible to avoid, and the gears will really mix things up) and that particular acid attacks the adhesive that bonds the fiber to the steel plate in some clutch packs. I've never had that problem with my bikes, but I've seen delamination in older clutches (I suspect they have changed the formulation of the adhesive in newer ones. It may be that I am faithful to the 5-10 hours max of use, trans oil changes (or after a wet Trial) so that there is much less moisture build-up in my trans.Jon The former owner of my 300 always used synthetic oil - he said he was told to by the GasGas reseller when he bought it new. Well the first thing I did after I brought it home was to open the clutch to measure the thickness. Two of three fibre plates just peeled of the steel. I guess that confirm this. One other thing: What about ATF? Isn`t ATF synthetic?? -Jan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jse Posted September 1, 2008 Report Share Posted September 1, 2008 The former owner of my 300 always used synthetic oil - he said he was told to by the GasGas reseller when he bought it new. Well the first thing I did after I brought it home was to open the clutch to measure the thickness. Two of three fibre plates just peeled of the steel. I guess that confirm this.One other thing: What about ATF? Isn`t ATF synthetic?? -Jan I've been told by my PetroEngineer buddies that not all ATF is fully-synthetic and it depends on the brand. I've never had a problem with it (ran it in my 96' JTR370 for many years) and in fact, use GM AutoTrak II transfer case fluid in my 280 Pro, which is synthetic. It may have to do with the fluid change periods? Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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