mcman56 Posted September 30, 2004 Report Share Posted September 30, 2004 Are there any secrets to bleeding the rear brake on a Techo. The rear brake did not work so I pulled the rear caliper and disassembled. Everything looked OK except the sealing surfaces where the bleeder valve seats. I reconditioned them. After assembly, I have tried the "suck method"...vacuum at the bleeder valve and pump method...pump, open valve, close valve, repeat....both get some (not alot) fluid to flow but the brake is still not operative. I can see the pads move but there is no braking action. Any suggestions????? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lwm Posted September 30, 2004 Report Share Posted September 30, 2004 I've had good luck with suspending the caliper. So that the bleader valve is at the highest point in the system, This allows any air trapped in a kink or a bend to work it's way out. The next trick that helps, is when you start to reassemble. Before you put the wheel on the bike, press on the brake lever, this moves the pads out in the caliper, repeat until the rotor just barely fits between the pads. If you got all the air out this should work. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stuessenhigh Posted September 30, 2004 Report Share Posted September 30, 2004 mcman...I bleed my Rev3 brakes (back and front) by feeding NEW fluid in from the bleed nipple (on the caliper)...using a syringe!! THis works great as all the air rises (naturally) to the brake reservoir. Of course the fluid overflows in the brake reservoir, but if you use Dot 5 it dont matter...it wont damage any paint work etc. You can tell when the hose etc. is full of NEW fluid, 'cause it will be a slightly different colour as it comes up to fill the brake reservoir. It's a piece of **** and best brakes I've ever had. ONLY tricky bit is making sure your syringe end is a snug fit INTO the bleed nipple. GOOD LUCK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alan bechard Posted September 30, 2004 Report Share Posted September 30, 2004 It is often a pain to do. There is a fine article on the front page with the technique that works well. Lately, I have been back bleeding, and cracking the lines as I go. I believe that the techno used a ball under the bleeder to make the seal, you will have to remove it too back bleed. Any method you can use to move larger volumes of fluid, and to get the air moving to the top and not hung up in a loop of hose, is very helpful. I also try and use an old set of pads as I have a habit of soaking the pads with brake fluid while fooling around. It also helps with me to get all small children out of the house because the cussing that is about to occur is only fit for soldiers and sailors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sirdabsalot Posted September 30, 2004 Report Share Posted September 30, 2004 As Alan mentioned, you need to remove the ball from under the bleed screw in order to back-bleed. In addition, wrap the threads of the bleed screw with teflon tape to prevent leakage. Cheers, Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete250 Posted October 3, 2004 Report Share Posted October 3, 2004 Ive just finished bleeding the rear brakes on my techno and it was no easy task. However having tried all ways I found the most effective method was to disconnect the rear brake pedal from the cylinder as you dont get much movement from the rear brake pedal. I then used a length of round bar to press up into the cylinder and found that I could get rid of a lot of fluid. On the bleed nipple I attached one of those non return valve one man bleeding contraptions you pick up from car accessory shops. But as previously mentioned dont have your best pads in or there is a chance to get them covered in fluid. Good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcman56 Posted October 4, 2004 Author Report Share Posted October 4, 2004 After much frustration, I decided to look in the master cylinder to see if all was OK. There was a little dirt and the seals show some wear but it did not look too bad. I then decided to take the whole system off ..less the little fill cup and hose and bleed it on an outside bench. This was pretty easy because I had a spare fill cup and could mount (and manuever) each component to help get rid of bubbles. (After spilling much brake fluid, I was glad to be outside) Once it was bled, I capped the fill line connection at the master cylinder. Then....the moment of truth......the master cylinder CAN fed in from the left side so the whold thing can be put back without breaking any lines. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clintrandall Posted September 24, 2020 Report Share Posted September 24, 2020 I'm experiencing the same problem. I'd like to remove the caliper and master cylinder and try Mcman's method. Can I ask how you ensured air didn't return to the system when connecting the hose from the reservoir to the master cylinder? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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