pete250

Hi try http://www.trialsport.com.au/beta/documents.htm for your parts manual. If its the one Iam thinking of it will help greatly to any dismantling.

Hi I ve also got 96 beta. Once the nut is off the spindle should tap out (how ever I would suggest that for the initial taps to leave the nut slighty wound down to prevent damage to the threads and try to turn the allen head on the other side as you tap).The spindle is aluminium so you have to be very carefull and I guess that the lack of maintenance isnt going to help. It is probably seized a) in the housing and to the needle bearings. I would also suggest downloading a parts catalogue for beta (there is a download somewhere on previous threads but for now I cant remember where) Good luck

Phil I dont know if this will solve your problem but on my Techno I found that the rear exhaust rubber mounting rubber was to blame ( the one that connects to the frame and has a nut inside). When this takes a knock or starts to perish it allows the rear silencer to flex. Hope this helps

cheers thanks for that

Following on from dragging clutch reply just about to remove engine from 97 250 techno for main bearings any tips or things to watch out for? (At first look it seems that the engine comes out from the left ie clutch side but I would welcome any comments. Thanks

Billy T Dont know if this is related but Ive been suffering from clutch drag on my 250 techno. Fed up with this and following up a suggestion I zip tied my clutch lever "on" overnight. Anyway clutch really bad a few laps in and when I got home and drained the oil (only done one trial) the oil was a dirty brown colour with a clearer fluid on top. Also discovered main bearings were shot. Coincidental?

Likewise been struggling with mine. Change the oil everything is fine but after about the first lap onwards it becomes impossible to get into neutral or through the next gear when standing still. No drag when running and changes gear fine on the move!

Thanks Richard Youve probably saved me some snapped bolts and a lot of swearing. I hadnt realised that the torque setting was so low. Cheers Pete

Thanks for that.

Does anyone know the torque settings for the cylinder head and base on beta 250 techno 1997? Also is there anything I need to look out for when draining and refilling the radiator? Thanks

Ive just finished bleeding the rear brakes on my techno and it was no easy task. However having tried all ways I found the most effective method was to disconnect the rear brake pedal from the cylinder as you dont get much movement from the rear brake pedal. I then used a length of round bar to press up into the cylinder and found that I could get rid of a lot of fluid. On the bleed nipple I attached one of those non return valve one man bleeding contraptions you pick up from car accessory shops. But as previously mentioned dont have your best pads in or there is a chance to get them covered in fluid. Good luck

Thanks for suggestions. Going to check these out but wont be able to get out until weekend.

Thanks for that. Yes had bike for about 8 months everything ok until recently when bottom end was fluffing up once warmed up. Went to adjust pilot and found that the only way I could improve the running was to turn the pilot right in. Since then the bike wont run with the pilot turned out more than a fraction of a turn. I have not done anything different to the bike ie fuel mixture the same (80:1) etc. However I have just stripped the carb and blown out the jets and noticed that the inlet stub appears to be cracked around the jubilee clip although the crack doesnt appear to go all the way through. Could this be the problem?

I've got a 1997 250 techno that will only pick up when the pilot screw is adusted to about a quarter of a turn out. Off the pilot everything ok. Checked carb and it has 30 pilot. Looking at previous postings it would seem that the pilot should be adjusted to about 11/4 turns but if I do this then it just runs flat off the bottom end . Any suggestions?